Remove all screws holding each printed circuit board to the chassis except one. And slightly loosen the remaining screw. In place of screws use small cork squares “spacers” to isolate the printed circuit boards from vibration. |
Gosh, I had no idea Al Kooper was an RF expert.
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The cover simply prevents children and pets from accessing the interior. And dust. Many tube amps do not have covers over the tubes or the transformers. A shield from what? RF? Much of the RF comes in on the power cord or is generated by microchips so what’s the diff? |
You’ve been following the wrong sheep. No offense.
🐑 🐑 🐑 🚶♂️
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Exactly! Which just goes to show that some things evolve while others don’t. 🦍
Tweaks evolved from Tip Toes and Green Pens and Craig Gold and HiFi Tuning fuses and Corner Tunes to Mpingo Discs to New Dark Matter to tiny little bowl resonators to WA Quantum Chips to Schumann frequency generators to Graphene fuses and the whole idea of wire directionality. Don’t be a cube, rube. Go ape! 🦍 |
Wow! I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone gets his panties in such a twist over some audiophile tweaks. Slow day at Subway, I suspect. |
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You will have to pry Graphene contact enhancer out of my cold dead hands.
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In reality graphene, with far greater conductivity than copper or silver, and by filling in microscopically small crevices, pits and pockets in what appears to the naked eye 👁 like perfectly smooth surfaces of the connectors, ensures much better physical and electrical contact and eliminates micro-arcing (noise) in one fell swoop.That’s why it’s a good idea to paint a thin layer of graphene on all (rpt all) electrical contacts in the house - audio and non-audio. Graphene also prevents oxidation and the distortion produced by dissimilar metal contact. As far as material that is impregnated with Graphene or multiple layers of Graphene goes the evidence seems to indicate they ACT like pure Graphene, or at least a very good facsimile. |
An obvious tweak is reversing interconnects to see which direction sounds best. In fact, there are a lot of things one can do to tweak interconnects, just to focus one one thing. Cryo them, freeze them, demagnetize them, apply anti-static agent or device, apply a smidgen of Cream Electret to the jackets, clean contacts, apply Graphene contact enhancer, elevate or suspend the interconnects to avoid vibration and static electric fields. Keep interconnects well away from power cords, at a minimum keep interconnects orthogonal to any power cord. There are even other ways to improve the sound of interconnects but alas, they are beyond the scope of this discussion, at least for the time being. Maybe later. 🤫
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“Seems to me actual real tweaks really are those that make sense.”
No, no, no! It’s actually the opposite. The best tweaks, anyway. People need to be a little more open minded. I’m not suggesting they be so open minded their brains spill out on the floor. Break on through to the other side!
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For 12AX7 type tubes, you know, the ones without bases, then only one Herbies damper is needed, right where the getter is located. Marigo also makes a VTS Dot for the underside of the Tube in the center of the Tube pins. |
Speaking of tubes, anyone use Herbies Tube Dampers? The only Tube dampers that actually improve the sound and don’t make it worse. For tubes like 6SN7s with a base use one damper on the glass near the getter and another on the base.
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I thought about it overnight and I’ve decided to gift thecarpathian a photo of the Clever Little Clock. |
Lol! You’ll take a stab at it. An obvious case of plagiarism. I think I know my own words. 🤗 |
Be sure to clean all non-audio wall outlets in the house. The noise on audio circuits includes noise on other circuits. You know, things like micro arcing.
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Obtain exact level of the CD to reduce tendency of the disc to wobble whilst playing, which is not good for quality of laser reading, especially in light of the fact CDs are frequently out of round. However, the level of the top of the CD player may not be the same level as the CD. What to Do? What To Do? 🤔 |
Sleepwalker, kudos on your almost grammatically correct post.
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My girl friend got so excited by the transparency and wetness of the sound she mopped the floor with me. |
If you get bored and can’t think of anything else to do there’s always the water bowl tweak. Place three medium size bowls filled with ice cold water about a foot or two out in front of the speakers, one bowl in front of each speaker and one between the speakers in line with the other two bowls.
Free tweak for the first person to correctly explain how the water bowl tweak works. |
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The only scientifically correct way to find the absolute best locations for speakers is using
the out-of-phase (speaker set up) track on XLO Test CD or similar Test CD or Test LP. All (rpt all) other methods, e.g., making speakers equidistant, making an equilateral triangle, using lasers, trial and error by listening, will be unable to find the absolute best locations. It would be like looking for a needle in a haystack. When the system is out of phase you should hear the sound coming at you from all around, with no particular direction. When that occurs, and it won’t happen overnight because the room acoustics if not treated interfere with how perfectly diffuse the sound can be on the out-of-phase track. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Anyway, be that as it may, when you get the out of phase track correct you will get the best sound when the system is IN PHASE. Everything else is a trade off. In some cases because the room acoustics are so bad, you might not even hear ANY differences when you move the speakers around. No one said it was going to be easy. Other locations might sound OK, but they won’t sound as good as the locations found using this out of phase method.
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Everything sounds better cryo’d. Even home freezing is highly effective and permanent. Two days in the freezer and 6 hours in the refrigerator section to thaw slowly. Theoretically 6 hours in the refrigerator prior to the freezer might not be such a bad idea, either. You know, thermodynamic symmetry and everything. Personally I skip both steps in the fridge. 😬 CDs, LPs, cables, CD players, preamps, tonearms, cartridges, power cords, integrated amps, what have you. This is very hush hush but there are others things to freeze at home or to send off to Cryo Lab but they’re beyond the scope of this discussion, they’re more for the advanced tweaker, so to speak.
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