Most detailed budget power cord under 150$ used?


For smps powered devices, low power (streamer 15W, 2 active monitors 30w each)
Looking for more Detail, Speed, Timing, Soundstage. Neutral to bright cables preferred.

Diy possible (how about cat7 cable?)
128x128zuio
VooDoo Cable has "new" Digital and High Current power cords available in your price range with a return policy. 12 and 10 awg 
15 amp IEC
20 amp IEC
10 amp C7

N
I agree with Pangea pc ,I have the ac14mark2se is just as good as my 2 audience powerchord, for $59 ? How can you beat that?
I like the used Nordost Shiva. I'm currently using one on an Oppo BDP105D.  I also like Wireworld you can look at Morrow Audio. 

N
Here is my take.  I have a dozen power cords, none of which cost more than $150 -- including several from Pangea, and I never heard a bit of difference or improvement in my system swapping them around.   Whatever you want to audition in your system, make sure you get a 30-day return deal.  Many audiophiles rave about power cord upgrades, but my experience has been to the contrary.   Good luck. 
I too have been working on making my system faster and more resolving of fine detail and have made most of my progress on the power delivery  side. I have limited experience with power cables but have tried five different brands in my system in various positions and my recommendation would be a Cullen Cable Crossover Series. I currently have three of these in my system and have found them to preform quite well. I don't know your required length but you can purchase a three foot cable new for $175 with 30 day return, a little more than your target figure but close with a return option. Not sure how often these come up on the used market but would surely be under your target.

Gary
I have purchased a used Nordost PC for around $150 and have been quite pleased. Good luck.
Spend a $100 more and get an Audience e PC, it's a great all around cord with excellent EMF rejection 

And yes, the connector will influence the sound just as much as the type of wire conductors.

Second thought - the DIY option using the Neotech chassis wire will be superior to any of the 3 pre-made cables because you are using OCC copper (Ohno Continuous Cast), instead of the OFC copper in the pre-made cables, as well as using superior Furutech connectors. The closest option to this would be the Wire World Electra OCC ($450 at 1 meter, or $700 at 2 meter).

It’s more expensive and will push the cable over $150, but you could use Furutech FP-3TS20 power cord cable with the Furutech connectors for DIY. The FP-3TS20 is $96 per meter (or roughly $30 per foot) at Parts Connexion. It’s 14awg, but it uses OCC copper and it wrapped in a UL approved cable.

If you don’t need a 6 foot cable, you don’t need to make one. I have cables that are 2.5-3 feet and they are excellent.

Hi Zuio. My thoughts:

Audioquest nrg x3 - I once purchased a used audioquest silver digital coax cable for $150. I wasn’t really impressed. It was okay, but it certainly did not beat my $20 solid-core Beldin 1694A from Blue Jeans Cable. My view on Audioquest is that it’s an upper level "Monster Cable" type. They are okay, but I’d rather spend my money on other options. I have not tried any of their expensive stuff. Also, this NRG X3 is only 15awg.

Pangea 14se MKII - I really like the cable material here. All solid core and litz conductors (which in my experience are superior to stranded conductors), and you get one Cardas conductor. However, they have cheap low-end connectors.  And they are gold-plated, which is not what you want.

Wireworld Aurora - I have listened to a Wireworld copper interconnect in my system. I actually really liked it. It was very nice, had good texture, but was just a bit rolled off in the high frequencies (not bad at all really). I have looked at Wireworld products and I really like their design and construction. The connectors on this cable are really nice quality - copper alloy (which is probably a phosphor bronze like the Furutech). However, both the conductors and connectors on this cable are silver clad (which is not my personal preference). If you wanted to buy a ready made cable, this is the one I would pick from these 3 choices. This is also the largest of the 3 at 12awg.

If it were me, I would think about buying a really long Pangea cable and chopping it into sections and then use Furutech connectors. However, the Pangae uses Cardas type litz wire, which is a real hassle to work with. You need to strip the litz polymer coating off the individual copper strands if you do DIY. I’ve tried this before with Cardas and it hasn’t really worked effectively. You need a solder pot to melt the polymer off the wire. You can try it if you want.

Hmmmm, it’s a hard call between DIY and the Wireworld. I would contact TheCableCo.com and see if you get get the Wireworld from their lending library (it will cost you a fee 5% of the cable). You can try it out on your streamer and decide what you think about the sound. If you like it, you can just apply that 5% towards the cable and keep it. Otherwise, you can return it and try the DIY option.

Thank you! 

So so these diy options are better than budget power cords (Audioquest nrg x3, Wireworld aurora, Pangea 14se) because of the better connector quality?

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You might want to try some Volex power cables 17504 10 B1. They are unshielded and run less than $7.50 ea. Check my system details, I use them in my system with my audio refinement, mogami, proac and rega gear. 

If you want to do a little further DIY, you can make a very superior power cord using three runs of Neotech 12awg or 14awg OCC stranded copper chassis wire. Then braid all 3 wires to make a power cord. You’ll probably need to mark/tape the ends before you braid so that you know which wires are live/neutral/ground. Sonic Craft has the 12awg PVC coated stranded chassis wire on clearance/closeout for $3.81 per foot. That makes it about $12 per foot for the power cord:

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/neotech-wire-pvc-strand-cu-c-296_175_183_220

Please be aware when doing something like this, the power cord will probably not meet UL standards (underwriters laboratory) for a power cord. You’ll probably want to run the wires through a Teflon tube for added safety (you can get Teflon tubes at hardware store or Home Depot - they are generally in plumbing next the refrigerator icemaker connection kits). Then run some techflex over that and it will look really slick (or just keep the clear Teflon tube so that you can see the wire braid).

Kimber PK 14 Gold for low current and Kimber PK 10 Gold for higher current, used of course.  

DIY will get you an excellent power cord.

Furutech FI-11M Cu Male AC plug on clearance from Sonic Craft at $35

Furutech FI-11(Cu) IEC connector from Parts Connexion at $50

DH Labs Power Plus Reference power cable from Parts Connexion at $8/foot

Believe it or not, the type/quality of the connectors makes a significant difference in the power cord. The Furutech "(Cu)" plugs I am recommending above are actually un-plated copper (or phospher bronze with the IEC). These give a very neutral and fast responding type of sound. I would avoid gold-plated connectors (even though they are more expensive) because the gold-plated will sound warmer/slower and I don’t think that is what you are looking for. These connectors are the cheapest ones I would recommend. I would actually want to choose a better cable than the DH Labs, but it would be impossible to keep the cost under $150. Rhodium plated A/C connectors will be faster and have more detail (and have an incredibly long 250 hour burn-in), but they are also more expensive. You could get the cheaper Wattgate Classic A/C connectors, and this would allow you to choose a more expensive cord. They are very fast and detailed, but I have found they tend to be somewhat harsh/bright/sterile in comparison to the Furutech connectors. My opinion is that the Furutech will give you a more engaging sound. I have done a lot of R&D on power cords and have used all of the connectors I have mentioned above.

I personally do not like silver/silver-plated elements, but some do. I have found they push the upper mids/highs too much and can sound not as real.