Micro Seiki RX 5000


I just gor RX5000 from my uncle and I actualy wanna clean bearing and re-fill new oil for it, but I don'
t really know how to remove the platter from it frame. It's really heavy. Does anyone give me a clue for this?

Thx.
ritchiepok
This is an excellent TT -- but the screw suggestion is likely to mar the gun-metal of the platter -- this is a pressure fit only. The trick is to heat the platter. Put a towel on the platter an pour boiling hot water on the towel. It should (maybe with WD-40) lift right off.

A note on the bearing -- Micro-Seiki used lead (Pb) "powder" in their oil -- it is very toxic, and should be handled with care. Before you go through the exercise of removing the oil and changing it, you should listen to bearing housing base with a stethoscope -- if the bearing moves freely,and is not noisy, just use it as is. Otherwise you will need to replicate the same original treatment - and use powdered lead (Pb) [available here - www.testbourne.com/materials/metals-details/3523-640/Lead-powder/ ] in your replacement oil. This is due to the spacing in the bearing, and I am not sure if graphite powder would be a good substitute, as graphite might etch or corrode the stainless steel -- whatever you do, use a "high molecular weight" oil -- or an impregnated one.

These are best driven with an aramid (Kevlar) string -- you can buy a 600yd spool at Edmund Scientific [scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3034863]

Enjoy -- I would also invest in this record weight -- TRITIUM POLISHED BRASS COPPER RECORD Clamp -- look on ebay fo it -- it REALLY makes a huge difference.

cfp
www.resfreq.com
You can polish it with any copper cleaner -- avoid anything too abrasive.

cfp
www.resfreq.com

This is quite old but I just acquired one from an old customer who passed away. I'm posting in case, like me, anyone else new has the issue and there is some misinformation here.  You do insert two screws into the holes on the platter.  They are M3 and you should be able to do it with 4" or longer.  You can fashion handles or use vise grips to pull them up.  When they screw all the way down they hit the steel plinth - there's nothing there to damage.  Mine would lift about 1/8" and then stop.  I worked three wooden shims around the edges and with a friend would slowly work them in as we pulled up.  This applied even pressure.  At about another 1'8" up it released.  The spindle remains in the bearing shaft in the table.  It is sealed and basically inaccessible.  Mine is in great shape and sounds terrific.  

If the OP has been tugging on his platter for the 14 years since he posted, he ought to be quite muscular by now or else ridden with stress fractures.