The upgraded Orchid plays on a higher level for sure. Add the SR Orange fuse and tube rolling and the Orchid really steps up several big notches!
I like my Amber 3, but needed to add better tubes, SR fuse and some other upgrades/tweaks to get her to sing like she does now.
Gear and systems can can be tweaked, modified and made to perform at much higher levels without the need to buy new pieces. So many of us have gear that can be taken to the next level with tweaks and well chosen part upgrades if one is a skilled DIYer or has done by one. |
I have also heard the T is the best sounding from a Don Sachs preamp owner who tried both. |
I placed the Shuguang Treasure cv181-z in the stock Orchid with the adaptor and did not like the sound at all. Very bright, forward and lacking warmth and bass. The cv181 already had 50 or so hours on an FYI.
Next I performed my upgrades on the Orchid and put the same cv181-z back in and boy does it sound fantastic now! Best I’ve heard the Orchid sound for sure. This is with only a hand full of hours on the upgraded parts.
The stock unit sounds far better with the Western Electric Tube most owners have vs rolling in the cv181-z. The upgraded Orchid sounds better with the cv181 vs the Western Electric and is the best I have heard the dac sound to date. It will only get better with burn in. The upgrades seem to be mandatory to get the most out of tube rolling .... at least the 6sn7s and Shuguang Treasure c181-z varieties.
The Shuguang cv181-z pulls .6 amps of current on the fills like all 6sn7 tubes and is in fact a direct replacement. The cv181 label given by Shuguang is really pure marketing as NOS cv181s actually pull .9 amps of current, not .6 amps.
MHDT states you can try 6sn7 tubes as they may well be ok to use. Please understand the .6 amps the filaments draw is right up against the ceiling MHDT suggests for filament current draw. So roll 6sn7s at your own risk🙂. My friend’s unit has run for many days and hours with absolutely no issues. The tranny does not even get warm. It stays cool. No signs of stress on the Orchid.
The sound is just wonderful with the Shuguang. Very special. |
I am hearing the same thing here @stewg. It is remarkable how good this dac can be made to sound. Right now it is my favorite dac! The resolution and purity coupled with the silent background and huge soundstage is so compelling. I have not heard a better dac than this Orchid (outfitted with the upgrades and cv181z Tube) at any price. Period. There, I just said it 🙂.
Funny thing is is I have some other ideas on how to extract even more out of this wonderful design. I will update all on my next round of potential upgrades to the power supply and beyond. What a fun dac and brilliant design. |
The lettering flows toward the outer foil on the cap so the “V” is at the back of the unit. Thus, the cap reads from the back of the unit towards the front. The outer foil faces the front of the unit.
I always add a .01uf Vcap Cutf in parallel to the 2.2uf Odam. The combo is magic in this dac. Pure magic! The caps need at least 24 hours before you start to hear what they are capable of doing. Figure 100 or so hours gets you just about fully broken in. |
The SR Orange fuse should have the lettering going from the back of the unit to the front. Use a 1.6 amp, slow blow, 5x22mm.
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@batenet. Just use the 2.2uf Odam with the ..01uf Cutf. Perfect combo for your system. |
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Stone cold both will sound a little closed in and constricted. After even 24 hours you will start to hear what they really sound like. The dac, cable and tube need closer to 60 hours to get most of the way. |
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Yes indeed. Sweet little dac really. |
The WE tube is known for the mids, but does have rolled off highs and less defined bass.
As far as upgrades. I have done some 14 units for Agoners now. Replace the output caps to Vcap Odam 2.2uf/400v. You can add Vcap Cutf .01uf in a bypass position for a little more top end sparkle and air.
Replace 8 key resistors around the tube with a mix of Vishay Nude Zfoils, Audio Note and Shinkoh.
You can uograde the fuse to SR Orange. If using USB make sure you have a nice cable.
All of this will open up the sound and improve the resolution and articulation top to bottom. |
Do not use the cv181 tube and adaptor as it is not the best combo for sound and can sound bright. No Duelund caps needed.
Vcap Odams on output 400v 2.2uf. Add Vcap Cutf .01 uf as bypass for more detail and air. Not a must, but a nice option.
Use a mix of resistors for best sound. Vishay Nude ZFoils for the 100R. Audio Note non-magnetic tantalum and Shinkoh for remaining positions.
Careful desoldering the old parts. Easy to lift pads if not careful on this unit. Very easy! You can ruin the board.
Use WBT silver solder.
1/2 watt resistors are fine. Audio Note leads on 1 and 2 watt resistors will not fit in the pad hole.
I do these units for customers and at a price close to what you will do it for. I can do this for you if you are not skilled with desoldering etc...
Other upgrades can be done for a tad more improvement.
Take care. |
I reported on the thread that over time it sounded forced and a tad bright. That tube also pulls more current than the other tubes folks are trying and I think it is pushing the limits of the small tranny. I would not use it. It pulls more current than a standard 6sn7 tube as an FYI. |
The fuse does matter for sure. The Vcap Odams with a. .01uf Vcap Cutf gives the best sound as I learned in my years of upgrading these units. I have also found a mix of the Vishay nude ZFoils and Audio Note non-magnetic tantalum resistors to be wonderful.
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Well, I did not like the sound of these cv181 tubes in the Orchid. For me the sound was too forward and forced. A good audio buddy liked it however.
The tranny is very small in the Orchid and these 6sn7 variants do pull more current. I have not heard of any issues using these tubes in the Orchid, but over the long term who knows? |
