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Math + Logic + Science = something completely mad...

So, I've done a metric fuckton of research, notwithstanding the clear bias the man who designed and built my Belles has against esoteric cabling.  And here's the conclusion to which I arrived. 

My monoblocks are sitting on top of the speakers.  The distance from the amp to the speaker is barely a foot, which is exactly how long a run of wire I intend to use.  Goal is to minimize the effect the wire has on the sound.  

According to the calculations I've seen and done, the skin effect depth on copper wire at 20Khz is 461 micrometers.  Meaning a 19-gauge copper wire (911 mics diameter) would reduce skin effect to zero.  As in no impact whatsoever on the signal. 
 
Of course, it's actually very difficult to find 19-gauge wire.  18-gauge (1024 mics) is much easier, and the skin effect is near zero, but not quite zero.  Seems to be an acceptable compromise. Could go down to 20-gauge and eliminate skin effect entirely.  If I could find insulated aluminum wire, 18-gauge would eliminate skin effect entirely, because skin effect depth on aluminum at 20khz is 580 mics.  

12 inches of 18-gauge wire produces 0.006 ohms of additional resistance.  20-gauge = 0.01 ohms.  

Frankly, I don't see the value in spending big bucks on esoteric, heavy-gauge wire for this application.  I'd rather make the bigger investment in the 2m runs from the preamp to the blocks, because that's where the wire's going to have a hell of a lot more of an effect on the sound.  

Stepping back to allow you all the opportunity to punch holes in my thought process here. 
jerkface

Showing 3 responses by oldhvymec

oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
NO. Setting amps on speakers.
NO. 18 gage cable.
NO. skin effect

If you don’t have the room for the amps come up with a different plan.
A good 8 - 16 strand OCC/silver clad PTFE weave up to 3 meters long will work perfect. Red copper or copper/silver terminal ends. (B-16) is an option. OCC or OFC 8-24 strand weave PTFE is another.

No idea where you got your information.. We’re not rewiring a toaster or an ARC welder. The RIGHT kind of cable selection goes a long ways as far as "How does it Sounds".

You’ll squeak out some sound with #18 all right.. :-)

The cable I’m talking about sells for 250 - 3500.00 +. Depends on who’s name is on it..

They actually cost about 150.00 usd. Delivered.. and put together pretty well if you want someone else to do the work..

Second option is a ribbon design.. Same price very close in SQ to Norcast Vanilla. They make anything sound as good as it’s gonna get..
Ribbons and weaves are really really good cables for the money.

GREAT cables are very affordable, LOL so are BAD ones..

Time to feed the chickens..

Regards

oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
So now I'm thinking some basic 12-gauge Belden with some nicely welded spade ends from Blue Jean Cable is the correct answer here.  

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Yes and if you can manage, cold press the ends, no solder. Treat the bare wire before you install it into the bore with a good enhancer. Graphite dust works great. If you have to solder, use GREAT solder, that is another boo boo, people make.  They solder ends instead of tinning and using and enhancer with a cold press or HEAVY hammer strikes will work. 20-30 tons with 2 of my hammer strikes..

2 strikes with a 6 pounder will do.. One to set the cable and a second to cold weld them.. Up to 2.0 gage.. Hammer strikes.. 

Yup...

Bla bla Bla.. 18 gage is perfect.. Not in this lifetime.. 40 watt reading light.. SOUND not appliances... Not anywhere close to the same application...

Regards
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
Keep going back to blind testing.. The whole point is not to blind test..

Just like not having an idea on earth about the Helix but makes a comment like this.

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williewonka2,376 posts04-29-2021 6:08pm@dietch2 - well I’ve just spent the better part of the last 4 years ACTUALLY TRYING all of the things I have mentioned and in that time I have found that EVERY one of the things I mentioned does actually make for a vastly superior cable - regardless of length.

How did I measure all of this - with my ears.



You mean with your eyes. Sorry that you wasted 4 years. A book on electrical properties of materials and how to calculate L and C for round and parallel conductors would have saved you a lot of time.


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Please move on NO ONE want to hear what you haven’t learned. I’ve followed this project and personally tried a few of the cables.. STUNNING..

You show your absolute ignorance when it comes to education, and APPLICATION. willies (Steve's) cable WORK. NO ONE wasted anything. 

As far a proof pay for your own... No one here need to validate your lack of experience.. Your just a Johnny come lately, with NOTHING but 1940s text book spew.. If you weren’t washed up, your sure showing you aught to be.. DENCE...MFer.. Your just a DUMMY.. Sit in the corner and learn something or take your spew and boogie.. Pretty simple for me..

Off the med on the meds off the med on the meds.. Mr/Mrs Yo Yo..
I really wish we worked together.. You’d last a 1/2 a day after telling people what they can or can’t understand or hear.. make that before first brake. IF they didn’t lock you in the shitter, load you on a truck and go over a couple state lines.. Teach you some friggin manners...QUICKLY..

Learn or leave....

You don’t know what your talking about.. WE ARE NOT wiring toaster
OR ARK welders..

MY stereo gear NOT YOURS, you keep mixing that part up..

From watching your post, I question if you have a system I would KEEP Listening too after a few minutes..

Really makes me wonder how good a stereo can sound in a PADDED CELL?

Oh and BTW it is time to feed the SMART chickens..
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