Amplifiers can have a wide range of input impedance, ranging from a couple of k ohms to more than 100k ohms. A basic rule of thumb (for passives), is, that the upstream component's output impedance should be less than the input impedance of the component you are driving. If not, not only are you going to introduce higher frequency roll-off, you also may raise the distortion due to increased noise. The latter is probably the most cause for the flat/dry/lifeless result from improper impedance matching. The so-called micro dynamics suffer and you hear that (or not depending on how you perceive the problem).
Unless you like a binary approach to volume control (off or full on) connecting any source directly to an amplifer (assuming this amp has no gain control or whatever in the front end) will result in the amplfier applying its rated gain (typically 25 -30-ish dB) into whatever load. Not a really useful setup.
The 2.2 volts you refer to is the specified RMS output of your CD player.
Try a McCormack TLC-1 in buffered mode. These can be had for about 300-400, and are high performance line level controls. One of the few truly audiophile grade components out there at affordable prices.
Unless you like a binary approach to volume control (off or full on) connecting any source directly to an amplifer (assuming this amp has no gain control or whatever in the front end) will result in the amplfier applying its rated gain (typically 25 -30-ish dB) into whatever load. Not a really useful setup.
The 2.2 volts you refer to is the specified RMS output of your CD player.
Try a McCormack TLC-1 in buffered mode. These can be had for about 300-400, and are high performance line level controls. One of the few truly audiophile grade components out there at affordable prices.