Maestro vs. Furutech GTX-D Gold AC Outlets

I haven't heard the Furutech GTX-D gold outlets. I do have a couple of the Maestro outlets though as well as the Porter Ports and the Oyaide R1. I had an Oyaide SWO GX but couldn't get rid of it quick enough as it was deficient on the top end, opaque and too full through the mids, and too full and loose on the bottom end.

How you'll react to the Meastro will depend on your priorities. For me, transparency and detail are tops as well as a focused soundstage and the Maestro outlets are the best I've heard in these regards. The Maestro is quite neutral as well and probably won't do much to tame the sibilance you're experiencing. I found the Oyaide R1 to tame some midrange brightness I was having issues with and it seems to have more control than any other outlet I've tried but it just isn't as transparent as either the Porter's or the Maestros so serves only to power up my powered subs through my PS Audio power plant.

I see that you're using the rhodium plated Oyaide SWO DX outets. I haven't heard these nor the matching 037 plugs but am very fond of rhodium as well. I have found that the IeGO 8095 plugs (rhodium over pure silver--not over copper or brass) are magical in taming midrange brightness (sibilance in some cases) while maintaining the highest degree of detail and top end air and extension. All of my power cords have at least one of these plugs on them. (I also use Oyaide 046 plugs). You can purchase the IeGO plugs from acousticfun(dot)com

Lcherepkai, thanks for your feedback. I was reading some of your early posts looking for a power cable and sense that you were looking for similar qualities as far as sound goes.

Your report on the Oyaide R1 differs from most accounts. while it is said to have a very extended treble, it also has very little bloom as opposed to the GX.

I was hoping that the Maestro has a good degree of body and tonal density albeit being neutral but it sounds from your description that it doesn't. Please clarify.

Thanks

My speakers are DIY using Eton metal dome mids and tweeters. Surprisingly, the top end, while quite extended, never draws attention to itself and can be very delicate when the source materials allows it. The mids, however, are another matter. The are always highly detailed but can get aggressive with the wrong components/accessories/recordings. So, when I refer to sibilance and brightness, it is within the upper midrange.

I found the R1 to do a decent job of taming glare in the upper midrange. The GX emphasized it. I wouldn't say the R1 has much bloom but it does have image and tonal density making the Porter Port sound a bit thin. The Maestro may have only slightly less density but is so much more transparent that I could never live with the R1.

I've been buying wire for awhile, swapping out various plugs, trying to get the most detail while minimizing that upper midrange glare, and think I've found about the best solution. The "Mundorf Germany ISWG110 Silver/Gold 1mm wire", listed on Ebay from Taiwan, with an IeGO 8095 male plug as well as an Oyaide 046 female plug makes a highly detailed power cord that is extended on top, slightly warm, has decays that go on and on, and just nails the ambiance of the recording venue. I made power cords using 3 runs and 4 runs per pole and twisted them around each other (rather than trying to braid them) and then ran a simple thin wire counter-clockwise for the ground. I put the one with 4 runs per pole on my PS Audio P600 (with Maestro outlets) and used the 3 runs per pole on either my amp or my cdp and used a Wolff BOHICA on the other component. The sound was smoother than I've ever heard my system while the detail was about as good as it's ever been. Win/win right? Not quite, unfortunately. With two of these cords in the system, the specificity of images was compromised a bit. I'm not saying the images were indistinct. They just weren't as vivid as I like. So, I keep the 4 runs per pole cord on the PS Audio P600 and I have zero issues with sibilance. The soundstage is vast and just engulfs you and I'm always pleased with the level of inner detail that makes the music alive and captivating. Of course, I'm ever the audiophile so I'll surely try something else sooner or later but really, the power cord I've described has satisfied me like no other, at least with regards to the speakers I own. If I were more a business-man, I'd build and sell these. They kill most cords I've tried and I've had numerous power cords over the years. I hope this is of use to you. Thanks for looking.

I use the Furutech GTX receptacle on a dedicated 20 amp line for my two mono Acoustat tube power amps.

It is really well made and holds the Annaconda power cords like a vice.

I have experience with hospital grade Hubbels, Shunyata cryod receptacles and FIM receptacles.
I prefer the Furutech.

It's pricey but worth it in my estimation.

If you can, try dedicated lines for your electronics
then top them off with upgraded receptacles.

I think you will be impressed with the results when you start to upgrade all the things that bring power to your gear.

I was,and it made me realize that constantly swapping out components wasn't really the best way to approach this hobby.

Getting the most out of what you have by paying attention to the power delivery can be very rewarding.

I agree with Lacee.

I have,in-house, right this very minute, Synergistic Research Tesla Plex, Tesla Plex SE, Oyaide R1, PS Audio Power Port and Power Port Premier, FIM and FIM Gold, Maestro and the Furutech GTX-D (Gold, although I wanted Rhodium).

The Furutech is so far ahead of ANY of the others, there can be no disputing the differences. The grain is akin to that of the Hurricane amps, which is to say: Zero. The dynamic range soft to loud)and contrast (tiny inflections) surpasses the Synergistic - which I bought only 6 weeks ago. The Furutech has 16 hours on it so far.
The first 10 minutes, I couldn't tell. But 3 hours later, I could, and in a BIG way. Got up today and listened to it 20 minutes ago, with the amps not even warmed up, as I wanted to hear what it sounded like from a cold start, and whether or not the system being warmed up would hide what it sounded like last night with the system warmed up and 3 hours on it.
It was so obviously better, even cold, I just blinked and muttered, "Wow."
I've had audiophile ac receptacles since 2003, so I'm not new to this, just as I had tube traps back in 1988, dedicated lines in 1989. I've done EVERYthing that could be done to make it sound better (including something most people scoff at: keeping the speaker cable off the carpet, which I demonstrated made a difference back in 1995, at the publisher of Fi Magazine's home, with Dick Bel, Tom Miiler, Sally Reynold (TAS' former Executive Editor) and a few other VIPS). It works, and if you're not doing it - or you don't hear it, I don't know what's wrong with your ears. Every speaker cable I've had, which includes: Nordost Valhalla, Transparent Audio Ultra (from 1993), then the Transparent Reference, MIT, Shunyata Andromeda (Constellation Series)and a few more. How someone cannot hear the difference with interconnects and speaker cable off the carpet is beyond me. Enid Lumley knew what she was talking about. (People just lift it off the carpet without understanding their cable will take time to settle. Wait 4 hours and THEN listen to it.)
Back to the subject at hand: if I can determine a way to put the Furutech in my PS Audio Power Plant, it's going in there, too!
Unquestionably, THE BEST. BAR NONE.

Here's a bit of an update.
I have now placed the Furutech at the end of an ordinary line,not a dedicated one, and the wiring is 14 guage romex standard house wire,into a standard wall fixture.

What I can now add is that even if you can't run a dedicated line from a 20 amp breaker and use 10 guage wire,you can still improve your sound if you use the Furutech GTX receptacle.

just received my Rhodium receptacle. It is unquestionably "crisper"-sounding than the gold, by which I mean transients 'pop' more 0-to-60 than the gold and the overall sound is less 'warm,' but only slightly. I have this on the front end, where I previously had the Gold, and I prefer it. Given that I had a CJ Classic SE as well as an ET3 as the preamps, it's pretty obvious that the Rhodium suits me better. I'm getting another Rhodium for the amp outlet (dedicated). I had considered keeping the gold, but I don't need warmth in my system, unless it comes from the recording. I prefer hearing the ambience of the acoustic environment, as well as the timbre of instruments, along with whatever fullness/body I hear in them in real life. So, back goes the Gold for another rhodium.

I've just ordered two Maestro outlets. These will replace two Porter Ports, they replaced two FIM 20 amp outlets. It's been quite a while since I put in the PP outlets, but I can say the sonic benefit was substantial. One major concern I've had with the PP outlets is that they only seem to grip the last 1/4" of the prongs of my power cords. This, to me is unacceptable. I've not read any other end user remark on this and I find it hard to accept that I bought two inferior outlets. I have two separate dedicated lines in my room, one for the front end electronics and the other for the amp, subs. These two lines feed my Shunyata Hydras, a four for the amp/subs, a 6 for the front end equipment. If there is any interest in my findings, I'll post them later.

I have the GTX-D rhodium and I agree with Gbmcleod:

It's utterly grain free. Also quite lively sounding with jaw dropping detail retrieval, though it doesn't have the bloom of the Maestro.

I replaced all my connections with Furutech rhodium because I use 1970 era tubed amplifiers.
So that was replacing the IEC at the amps, the RCA at the amps, the RCA ends at the interconnect, and the ends of the dedicated power lines going into the power amp and the three speaker ends for the amps, and before going panel to amps, my amps were plugged into a GTX D rhodium.
Keeping it all furutech and rhodium has made for a more detailed and consistant sound than what I had before.
It was a bit pricey,but worth it for me.

I think older tube gear would benefit more from the rhodium ,but who knows, some solid state gear I've owned in the past probably would have benfitted also with a bit of lighting up from the rhodium.