Since you are experimenting with a new brand, and you already have a primary system, I would recommend something economical (by Linn standards)to start with in case you aren't overly happy with it. Linn holds its value pretty well on the used market so you can get rid of it at little or no loss if you wish.
I would recommend a Mimik CD player (about $450-$500 on Audiogon). Get a Majik integrated amp (the older Majik, not the new Majik series, about $500-$600 used). For speakers, I will suggest a couple of alternatives. One alternative is monitors. I would suggest either Tukans or Katans (about $500-$600). The other alternative is floorstanders. Fot this alternative, either Keilidhs ($700-$800), or Ninkas ($900-$1200).
Regarding speakers, Linn's philosophy seems to be if you can't do deep bass properly, it's better not to do it all lest it screw up the very important midrange. For this reason, their monitors often strike people as being bass shy. So if you go Tukans/Katans, you may find the sound a bit thin. However, as you play them more, you realize that the bass is there, it's just not artifically boomy, but is more tuneful and balanced with the rest of the musical spectrum. This is characteristic of the Linn sound. Rather than concentrate on a lack of deep bass response, listen to how well the midrange is done for such a relatively inexpensive speaker. You can always add a sub of course. My opinion is that if you find the bass less than what you like, rather than buy a sub, it's better to get the floorstander. I find better integration than with a monitor/sub set-up and there will definitely be deeper bass. Again, however, it will not be overly pronounced. Proper tuneful bass, not boomy bass, is their goal.
After living with this system for a bit, the next step is to go active. Buy the active cards for the speakers you have ($300-$500) and buy either an LK 85 or an LK 140 power amp ($450-$600). Put the active cards in the Majik and the LK amp and you will have a very economical way to hear the difference between a passive and an active system. The ability to upgrade relatively inexpensively to an active system is a tremendous benefit of Linn systems, and from their corporate point of view, it keeps you in their product line.
If you don't like what you're hearing, you can dump it all, as I mentioned, for almost no loss. I don't recommend you get anything "better" (i.e. more expensive) in the Linn line until you're satisfied that you would like to explore Linn further, unless of course you get an exceptional deal.
I think that Tobias' suggestion is a fascinating one. I would be intrigued to hear it myself having owned Linn equipment for close to twenty years now. However, for a newbie to the brand, I think it is a bit too adventurous and wouldn't really sound like a Linn system.
Have fun, and remember one of Linn's sayings: "If it sounds better, it is".
I would recommend a Mimik CD player (about $450-$500 on Audiogon). Get a Majik integrated amp (the older Majik, not the new Majik series, about $500-$600 used). For speakers, I will suggest a couple of alternatives. One alternative is monitors. I would suggest either Tukans or Katans (about $500-$600). The other alternative is floorstanders. Fot this alternative, either Keilidhs ($700-$800), or Ninkas ($900-$1200).
Regarding speakers, Linn's philosophy seems to be if you can't do deep bass properly, it's better not to do it all lest it screw up the very important midrange. For this reason, their monitors often strike people as being bass shy. So if you go Tukans/Katans, you may find the sound a bit thin. However, as you play them more, you realize that the bass is there, it's just not artifically boomy, but is more tuneful and balanced with the rest of the musical spectrum. This is characteristic of the Linn sound. Rather than concentrate on a lack of deep bass response, listen to how well the midrange is done for such a relatively inexpensive speaker. You can always add a sub of course. My opinion is that if you find the bass less than what you like, rather than buy a sub, it's better to get the floorstander. I find better integration than with a monitor/sub set-up and there will definitely be deeper bass. Again, however, it will not be overly pronounced. Proper tuneful bass, not boomy bass, is their goal.
After living with this system for a bit, the next step is to go active. Buy the active cards for the speakers you have ($300-$500) and buy either an LK 85 or an LK 140 power amp ($450-$600). Put the active cards in the Majik and the LK amp and you will have a very economical way to hear the difference between a passive and an active system. The ability to upgrade relatively inexpensively to an active system is a tremendous benefit of Linn systems, and from their corporate point of view, it keeps you in their product line.
If you don't like what you're hearing, you can dump it all, as I mentioned, for almost no loss. I don't recommend you get anything "better" (i.e. more expensive) in the Linn line until you're satisfied that you would like to explore Linn further, unless of course you get an exceptional deal.
I think that Tobias' suggestion is a fascinating one. I would be intrigued to hear it myself having owned Linn equipment for close to twenty years now. However, for a newbie to the brand, I think it is a bit too adventurous and wouldn't really sound like a Linn system.
Have fun, and remember one of Linn's sayings: "If it sounds better, it is".