L-Pads. Speakers Awful Without Them, New Ones Ordered


I removed the L-Pads, the tweeters are way too bright, screechy above mids. Disturbing. Played my best source: R2R, Sgt. Peppers. Normally magnificent. Unlistenable!

Using my Chase Remote Control to cut Treble temporarily, until new L-Pads arrive.

I ordered these 16 ohm pads:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153892668925

mine don’t have the issues he discusses, my insulation is modern, crossovers are tar filled metal cans, not much heat in 6.3 cu ft; these and originals were large ceramic body.

Will put the tweeter ’Brilliance’ ones in first, listen. Then add ’Presence’, listen, decide: leave in, or out. IN more than likely. They (orig and 1 set of replacements) have been IN for 62 years.

My original bronze ones came from original Fisher console, they were a custom version, still labeled ’Brilliance’ and ’Presence’.
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Many of these old Electro-Voice designs had L-Pads (16 ohm used AT37 Attenuators; 8 ohm used AT38). 2 way have one. 3 way designs have two: ’Brilliance’ and ’Presence’.

You can balance the drivers to each other, and to each space, and as you age, ability to hear highs diminishes, you can creep the tweeters up speck by speck. Imbalance due to irregular spacing: adjust each individually

I’m not going to measure and install a fixed resistor, I want future adjustability.

’L-Pads: Terrible Idea’. Bullshite, everyone who ever heard them loves them!

And, let’s not forget, the originals, with L-Pads, first one mono speaker, later two for stereo, are the designs that made these companies successful.






elliottbnewcombjr

Showing 5 responses by intactaudio

Hey Erik,

Paul Klipsch must be one of those scoundrels because he routinely used autoformers for level matching and in keeping up with the scoundrels...I for one think all L-pads and resistive networks for attenuation should be binned in favor of a magnetic approach for attenuation. :-)

boy this has gotten way off topic... apologies to anyone who feels this thread has been an off topic use of analog bandwidth.

dave
Well the first thing you need to do is define what you mean by L-pad. It appears as if what you purchased on ebay is a simple rheostat or a linear attenuator which is not the same thing as an L-pad.

In my opinion on the most basic level the goal of an L-pad is two fold.  It attenuates AND keeps the impedance presented to the source (crossover) constant.  This means that the crossover frequency will not change as you adjust the level.  In order to do this you need discrete step / resistor combos and while a simple tapped resistor (rheostat) will reasonably approximate the behavior of a true L-pad, it still adjusts two parameters (level and crossover frequency) as you turn it.  Granted, the difference between say 8 and 9dB of attenuation may be inconsequential in the whole scheme of things, but as you get to coarser changes the waters get a bit murkier.

I sure EV was well aware of this and chose to install variable resistors in place of true L-pads and coined the terms brilliance and presence to get around the fact that the adjustments change both the level and frequency range fed to the driver.

dave
Elliot...

two things...

- the EV six you referenced does not use an L-pad... advanced or any other type.

-why is this discussion happening in the analog forum where it is decidedly off topic?  Wouldn't the speaker or vintage forum be a more appropriate venue?

dave

Elliot,

while a 5 position switch and 5 different single resistors may adjust level as shown in the EV crossover,  it is not an L-pad.   When you get into technical discussions, the proper use of terminology is important so people at all levels of knowledge can learn.

dave