Bradleys,
I was able to get a schematic from Jadis, eventually, for my Defy 7 Mk 2, SN 623. (They said mine is a Mk 2, but it has the larger power transformer and looks like a Mk 3 to me.) The scan they sent me is a little fuzzy, but it is usable if only for a reference while you verify component values visually in your own amp. I've read that they made frequent changes, so it may not be representative of your exact circuit. I would be glad to scan a copy of it to you if you would like. For my SN they recomend 4 to 5 volts bias current per tube, and very importantly, 160mA slow blow fuses. Also, I know for a fact, your main fuse will not blow in an over current situation if you do not have a proper AC ground.
I would be cautious of running more current through any older Defy 7, especially the Mk 1, which I've read runs hot as is. It has been my experience that the design pushes the limits of its passive parts if the bias is left to stray. Owning one of these things can be a great experience if you properly maintain it, unfortunately I think many audiophiles find themselves in deep water with these amps because they are unprepared and uninformed as to what they are dealing with. With a little research, and some DIY skills, I've found this amp to be my lasting favorite over the years. When is the last time someone personally repaired their old Levinson or Krell that you know of?
Happily, I still have my "upgraded" Defy 7 as my primary amp, but I've gone the opposite direction power wise. I'm enjoying it with the "reissue" Mullard EL34s. With my speakers I have yet to run out of power, or even come close. Jadis makes wonderful transformers, and that is one component I would hesitate to risk damaging. Resistors and caps are easy to replace, but if you burn out a tranny, well, that would really suck.
Good luck, and please let us know how it turns out.
I was able to get a schematic from Jadis, eventually, for my Defy 7 Mk 2, SN 623. (They said mine is a Mk 2, but it has the larger power transformer and looks like a Mk 3 to me.) The scan they sent me is a little fuzzy, but it is usable if only for a reference while you verify component values visually in your own amp. I've read that they made frequent changes, so it may not be representative of your exact circuit. I would be glad to scan a copy of it to you if you would like. For my SN they recomend 4 to 5 volts bias current per tube, and very importantly, 160mA slow blow fuses. Also, I know for a fact, your main fuse will not blow in an over current situation if you do not have a proper AC ground.
I would be cautious of running more current through any older Defy 7, especially the Mk 1, which I've read runs hot as is. It has been my experience that the design pushes the limits of its passive parts if the bias is left to stray. Owning one of these things can be a great experience if you properly maintain it, unfortunately I think many audiophiles find themselves in deep water with these amps because they are unprepared and uninformed as to what they are dealing with. With a little research, and some DIY skills, I've found this amp to be my lasting favorite over the years. When is the last time someone personally repaired their old Levinson or Krell that you know of?
Happily, I still have my "upgraded" Defy 7 as my primary amp, but I've gone the opposite direction power wise. I'm enjoying it with the "reissue" Mullard EL34s. With my speakers I have yet to run out of power, or even come close. Jadis makes wonderful transformers, and that is one component I would hesitate to risk damaging. Resistors and caps are easy to replace, but if you burn out a tranny, well, that would really suck.
Good luck, and please let us know how it turns out.