Krell HTS 7.1 for 2 channel or a new or used 2 channel pre?

I used the HTS 7.1 for many years before I upgraded to a Krell S1200.  I know others who have used the HTS 7.1 as well.  When used as a pure analog preamp, the HTS 7.1 is very nice, but I would probably put it somewhat on the soft side (due to its analog input section).  That being said, it's still much better than the earlier Krell preamps such as KRC-2 / KRC-3 / KAV-250p.  However, if you feed it a digital signal through COAX, the output of the HTS 7.1 is stunning!  There's nothing wrong with the analog output section and the sound on this HTS 7.1 will still beat many current home theater processors!  If you are streaming from spotify or CD using a bluray player (or other) as a transport, you'll get an excellent result through the digital input!!  I would just make sure that the seller is guaranteeing the digital COAX input works fine, as I have seen these digital inputs fail after 15 years on the HTS 7.1.  It would be too much money to get repaired based the $700 you are paying for this HTS.

If you want to get into LPs, you can still use the HTS as an analog preamp with a phono preamp for the turntable (HTS does not have built-in phono preamp).  The sound may be even more soft and laid back than you are expecting (unless you want this result).  You might be better off looking for a used Krell KAV-280p  (newer than the 250p).  The analog input and output sections on the 280p are awesome and it is definitely not soft / laid back like the HTS 7.1.

I remember when I first got my HTS 7.1.  I was coming from a Bryston SP2 and before that a Sunfire Theater Grand.  The HTS 7.1 just blew away the other two processors in sound quality.  I remember thinking that I was just amazed on how "strong" the sound was through the Krell and the music was just so much more "there".  Best I can describe it. 

I don't know what Monster was doing 10 years ago, but I do think the Monster brand is generally overpriced for what you get.  Like I said, I don't know, but many of the lower end toslink cables are just Monofilament conductors.  This is just a single solid plastic line that the light travels through.  The higher end cables use stands of pure glass to do the light transmission.

For example, the Lifatec at 3 feet for $81 has 470 strands of Silflex Glass in it's cable.

The more expensive Wire World Super Nova 7 at $200 for a meter (3 feet) has 338 strands of Borosilicate Glass.

The cheaper Wireworld Nova at $40 for 1 meter is just an Acrylic (plastic) Monofilament.

Believe it or not, there is a sound quality difference between these cables.  The sound can be looser/messier with the cheaper monofilament cables.

Yup, I totally know where you're coming from.  I used to run silver plated copper speaker cable (Audison wire) and solid-core OCC Silver interconnects until I determined that they really did not match well with very strong solid-state equipment.  Silver will charge and discharge faster than copper will.  What I have found is that silver will push the upper mids and highs more.  In addition, bass and mid-bass will be somewhat weak in comparison to copper and the ultra-high frequencies will be smoothed out.  When paired with very strong solid-state equipment like the Krell stuff we have, the sound may come across as too sterile / solid-state and may be a little harsh.  The sound may be a bit artificial as well.  This all comes down to system synergy.  Even putting a single Hi-Fi Tuning fuse (which contains a silver element) can introduce that "silver" sonic signature.  Silver may be a good component to compensate for a very warm or laid back system (maybe like tubes or McIntosh), but it's too much for strong solid-state.  You end up losing emotional attachment to the music.

I have recommended this next suggestion before, but a really cheap way to start transition to pure copper is to get some standard 12awg OFC (oxygen free copper) stranded speaker wire.  This can be obtained extremely cheap from Mono price ($15 for 50 feet) or any other source.  Just make sure it's OFC.  The Beldon stuff sold by Blue Jean Cable is actually inferior (I've tested it).  I don't think the Beldon is actually OFC at all, just standard cheap tinned copper.  I think you may be surprised on how natural (and neutral) the 12awg stranded OFC copper sounds in your system (once it is burned in).  You can run this in the mean time before you decide on spending a lot of money on speaker cable.  If your Tyler speakers are bi-wire, then I would do a double-run of 12awg speaker wire to your speakers and remove the bi-wire jumpers.   I don't know which Krell amp you have, but if the Krell binding posts are not big enough for 2 x 12awg wire (9awg), then you could pick up 4 Furutech FP-201 Rhodium spades from Sonic Craft for $14 each.  They accept up to 6awg wire.

I have converted all my power cords and interconnects over to hand-braided Neotech solid-core OCC 20awg chassis wire.  I use Furutech rhodium plated connectors everywhere (for XLR interconnect and power cord connectors).  The sound is actually amazing from this.  I use Furutech rhodium fuses everywhere.

In actuality, I am currently using 12awg Monoprice stranded OFC speaker wire throughout my system with some amazing results.  Speaker wire upgrade is on my list, but it may be a little while before I get to it.  right now, I'm working on acoustic room treatments.

Funny thing about the speaker cable. The Neotech NES-3002 is the exact cable I want to implement into my own system. I just haven't gotten to that point yet.  I will most likely look at putting some Furutech rhodium binding posts on my speakers, if possible.  Otherwise, I'll just use Furutech rhodium spades.

Thought I'd chime in, as I have extensive and recent experience with most of the Krell equipment mentioned.

Purely as stereo preamps, the sounds of the KRC3 and HTS 7.1 are actually quite close in 'genre'. Both are softer-sounding with quite a lot of flowing (and less detailed) bass. The KRC3 has better detail and a higher-quality sound overal, though (really a significant step up to my ears). It does have Theatre Bypass (only on the S3 input, has to be set with switch inside the chassis), so could nicely be integrated in the system you envisage.

The 280p is a lot sharper, detailed and realistic sounding; less tube-like. Some may say 'digital glare' but that depends on your perspective. To me, between KRC3 and 280p you trade pleasantness with realism. KRC3 is very nice for pop and rock, but has too much, slightly muddy bass with orchestral music. 280p is less pleasant and rounded than the KRC3, but voices are very realistic, orchestra is balanced (if a bit sharp), and bass is very tight. 280p has Theatre Bypass on all channels. I was very much on the bridge between which of these to keep, but in the end have decided to sell the KRC3 and keep the 280p (admittedly partly because it's a nice visual match with my other Krell gear of that line).

As to the HTS 7.1 for surround: After going to 7.1 with top-of-the-line integrated Marantz and Yamaha receivers, with HDMI, HD format decoding etc, it's clear that none of these can compete with the power and clarity of the sound the HTS 7.1. (Fronts/center were amplified with Krell 3250 in all cases, so the difference was really down to the preamp.) Of course the HTS is aging and its internal DAC (and lack of HDMI) can only do lossy 5.1. An Oppo into the analog inputs is an option (the 203 can decode lossless formats coming from a streamer like the nVidia Shield as well; 103 can't, lossy only), but may not be the most user-friendly deal... For the time being, I'm going to just stick with 5.1 and standard DD/DTS 5.1 and use the HTS's internal DACs to get there; sound quality and experience will be better than through any AVR with support for lossless, is my current feeling. (Although it may very well be the Oppo's DACs are indeed superior to the old Krell's, which are an early delta-sigma implementation.)

If you, like me, want to put stereo first, you can get the KRC3 (or 280p) and hook up as per normal stereo. I'd rely on a good CD player's DAC, or dedicated stereo DAC; the HTS's is OK but not super for stereo. For HT, you could get the HTS 7.1 plus poweramp for center/surrounds. You would connect the front L/R outs of the HTS to the S3 input on the KRC3. When that input is selected, the KRC3 bypasses its volume control, and all volume is controlled by the HTS.

Hope that helps - good luck!