interesting thread...
I have both Spatial X5 and a new pair of Cornwall IV that I have been playing with the past few weeks. Both are the best speakers I have had the pleasure of living with in all these years of audiophilia. I would be hard pressed to part with either of them. The X5 are the most tonally accurate speaker I have heard. For example, pianos sound more convincing than any other speakers. The integrated sub is perfect and very easy to adjust, at least in my large room.
The Cornwalls only have about 100 hours on them. They are slowly coming into their own. I had a pair of original Cornies years ago that I bought used for cheap. I hated the honk of the horn so I put in Dave Harris’ fastrac horn and completely rebuilt the crossovers with much better parts. They were fun and had the horn jump, but ultimately, the so so imaging and slightly boomy bass just didn’t do it for me. I have several customers who raved about the new Cornwall IV and I had a little discretionary funding in the business (I build tube amps, preamps, phonos and integrated amps). So I bought a pair. I could hear the promise after 10-20 hours so I damped the horns and woofer frames with something similar to dynamat, and I am ordering VCap ODAM caps for the key crossover ones that are in series with the mid and high drivers. At 100 hours they are wonderful speakers (crossovers are untouched). Bass is slowly coming around and they are now pretty 3D. They always threw a wide and tall sound stage, but the depth is coming along nicely. I put some small rubberized cork pads under each corner of the footer. They are 2 inch thick, but I sliced them with the band saw down to 1 inch so as not to disturb the listening height. That immediately tightened up the bass response. That cheap experiment has me thinking about threaded inserts so I can use my soundcare super spikes, which are an enclosed floating spike and pad that are perfect for hard wood floors and isolate the speakers wonderfully. Plus you can adjust the height of each foot to level the speaker and slide them easily on the floor. Have had them for years and they are on the X5.
To sum up... The Spatial X5 is a tremendous speaker with incredible tonal accuracy. It completely vanishes in my room. The Cornwall IV is VASTLY improved over any previous version. They maintained the horn jump factor that everyone loved, but fixed the boomy bass and the new mid horn and driver are light years ahead of the previous versions. The tweeter is better as well. They are inanely dynamic in a way that only horn speakers are. You can play them as loud as you want and they are never strained, and they sound great at low levels. That is true with my 32 watt/ch KT66 integrated or the separate preamp and kt88 amp. They have more of a personality than the X5, which simply vanishes. I would never say the Cornwalls are bright, but they do have a bit of a sound. That is not a bad thing. Most of us love the sound. The Spatials really don’t have a sound in my room. They literally just aren’t there. I would not call them polite sounding at all, but everything else sounds a bit polite when you compare it to a good horn speaker. I remember old Altecs years ago with huge horns and 15 inch woofers in refrigerator cabinets. The Cornwall IV is finally a really good horn speaker. It gives you that big horn sound in a smaller box with MUCH more of the hifi attributes of imaging and tonality than previous versions. Plus in my room I can put them 6 inches from the rear wall and they are fine. So they really don’t take a lot of space and they look cool. 10 ft apart and I sit about 10-11 ft away and they are pointed at my shoulders. The scale is immense. They portray everything accurately, but I would have to give the Spatials a wee edge there right now. I will not seriously evaluate the cornwalls until they hit 300+ hours though. I know better. The bass is coming along. It is not boomy, but it also cannot quite match that of the X5 with the integrated subs. As everyone says, the Cornwall bass is tuneful though. If positioned correctly with seriously good tube equipment ahead of them, the Cornwalls image pretty much as well as the X5 and that is steadily improving. They have a way of putting you in the bar or club with the performers. Put on a live recording of a small jazz combo like Bill Evans or the classic Old and in the Way recordings and you can be present in the venue in a way that even the Spatials cannot quite protray. Honestly, I don’t think you can go wrong with either speaker and a good tube setup. All will depend on your tastes, your hearing curve, your gear, and your room. If you demo Cornwalls somewhere they have to be in a good room with a good setup driving them. Some receiver or cheapo integrated amp will never let you hear what they can do. Also, they have to have at least 100 hours or so of run in or you cannot hear what they offer. Love both speakers......The Spatials are eerily accurate at portraying voices and pianos and really everything. They vanish. The Cornies do most of that, but will let you walk around in the club with a drink and stand in front of the band....... and of course if you really want to crank them.....you can be at the live Dead show:) It really depends on what you are after as to which you would prefer.
I would add that the Cornwalls are an addiction... either you are prey to that or not, but they are most definitely an addiction and whatever they don't quite have you are willing to ignore because they have that "wall of sound" and it fits into a pretty small package given what it is.
My 2 cents... happy listening.
Don Sachs
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Hi
I would say that Cornwalls are anything but muddy or smeary which makes me question the room and most importantly the gear ahead of them. I have mine maybe a foot from the rear wall, but they are each about 6 ft from the side walls. Bass is very tight and fast. As Oz noted, it probably goes down into the mid 30's with authority. It is not a perfect speaker by any means, but if it sounded muddy, then the system in front of it had issues, the room had issues, or quite possibly, the speakers were relatively new and didn't have at least 100 hours on them and the woofer surrounds were not loosened up yet. Not to say you wouldn't prefer some other speaker as we all have our taste, but Cornwall bass is quite fast and tight when all is working.. |
Well, the amp isn't bad, but not great, and not a good DAC or vinyl ahead of them.... you didn't really hear them. Too bad |
In reference to above.. there is no perfect speaker. What I consider perfect, or at least near perfect, you probably would not, even given the same room and system because our hearing curves and tastes are different. I would consider the X5 to be as perfect a speaker as I have ever heard. Ozzy had the X3 and bought Cornwalls... It depends on what you are after. Some people love horns and simply couldn't live with any other type of speaker long-term. Others cannot stand horns.
My preference is to always start with a tube friendly speaker design. I cannot listen to SS amps. I find them very two dimensional compared to a GOOD tube system. A mediocre tube system is flabby in the bass, etc... Given a tube friendly speaker you can put together all sorts of systems, roll tubes, etc.... You can tune it. As I said above, the Cornwall IV is a completely different animal than previous versions. I have them dialed in so I hear micro detail and a very 3D sound stage that is literally 10 -12 ft high and several feet wider than the speakers. They will do that in a good room with a very good system driving them. To me they image as well as any other top quality speaker I have had in here.
What you are seeing in the later part of this thread is that a dealer demo of the cornwall IV or any other speaker can turn you off them. Most dealers don't have the speakers well placed. I would never demo a tube friendly speaker with even that mac hybrid integrated. You are listening to a solid state power amp driving a very efficient horn speaker that cries out for tubes. If I were to demo the Klipsch heritage line I would certainly have a top notch all tube system in front and a really good source, not some iPad. A top notch DAC.
Others will disagree with me and prefer solid state amps. That's cool, that is what the hobby is about. I can build anything, but I only build tube amps because that is all I can listen to. Heck, I have serious preferences in capacitors, power supply topology, output transformer type, etc... But those are mine. Others have different tastes. Same with speakers... there is no perfect speaker. Given a budget you should try to hear a number of different designs and then hopefully demo something in your room with your system. Not always possible I know.... |
Yes, I am sure the iPad was controlling some sort of server, but again, it was probably a Mac or some other decent grade thing, but maybe not top shelf. My experience with the Cornwall IV and the X5 is that they are up there in rarified air. They are that level of speaker. Of course there are probably better speakers, but both of these are very good. Every time I change a tube I can easily hear it in either speaker. Any subtle change upstream can be heard. So if I am demoing these speakers I am setting up a KILLER system in front of them. They are capable of micro detail and very 3D imaging. My opinion is that if you put a SS amp in front of them you will not hear that. Of course you want the customer to be able to play whatever music they love to evaluate them as well. I listen to a lot of poor recordings I love anyway, but I listen to my set of 50-100 tracks of all genres to evaluate the gear I build. I would never use certain tracks to evaluate a pair of speakers. Your list of tracks would be different than mine:) |
Avoid single ended if you want tight bass. A really good push pull amp has every bit of the magic of a single ended one |
Ah, so they arrived. Good. They change a lot in the first 100 hours and the worst is the first 20-30 so it is good you are playing them and not really listening much. They are fun:) |
Also, look at the various threads about isolation. Nothing fancy. Those cheap rubberized cork pads all over Amazon work great. I was only able to find 2 inch thick ones, but I sliced them down to 1 inch on a band saw. You can use Herbies dots, whatever, but I certainly found that isolating them from the floor tightened up the bass and really everything. You can do it really inexpensively. the cork pads cost me about $20 for both speakers. |
I did indeed swap out the caps except the big 60 uF one between woofer + and ground. VCap ODAM. It is not a trivial job as the VCaps are larger physically, but with a little planning it can be done. I managed to glue cable tie bases to the board and mount caps. You have to insulate leads because cap body is conductive. Also put some double stick tape between cap body and inductor to make sure there is no contact. I didn’ t like caps so close to inductors and was worried it might sound worse. No. The difference is not subtle. The speaker goes up to the next level after about an hour. For the first 15 minutes you think you have destroyed them, but I know those caps and how good they are and that they need to run in. I use them in all my amp, preamp, and phono builds because they are just amazing caps. After 15-20 minutes you can hear the difference. After the 50+ hours I have on them now, wow. Slightly more 3D, but it is the tone and timbre of things that changes strikingly. That little hint of brightness in the speaker is gone and the vocals and instruments sound much more realistic. Yes, it is a very good speaker stock, but it improves considerably with the ODAM caps to my ear.
Again, I am not telling anyone to do this. It will undoubtedly void your warranty! I am also about to swap in pathaudio resistors. There is a 30 ohm and 8 ohm basic sand resistor. The 30 ohm is directly in series with the midrange driver so it will matter. The 8 probably not as much, but I will do it anyway. I will probably swap them next week. As I said, the speaker is now much better at all the hifi stuff, but it still has the same punch and drive and all the horn things going on. It just images a bit better and the portrayal of everything is better. Sound stage is massive, but it was pretty good before. The little hint of brightness is now gone and only detail remains. A trumpet sounds more like a trumpet. A piano more convincing. Vocals to die for. I know those of you who love the stock version will think I am nuts, but if I could flip a switch on your speaker so you could hear the ODAM caps I bet you would notice right away. To my ear you don’t lose any of the thing things you love about the Cornwall IV, it just gets better. But that is MY ear and again, I am not telling you to do this. It isn’t that hard, but I have built 1000 pieces of tube gear and modded many a crossover, so my concept of not that hard is different than that of a novice.
My significant other came into the house about an hour after the cap swap and she immediately noticed things sounded better. God bless that woman:) |
Well, I wouldn't say they were crap caps, just run of the mill MKP. I put the best caps I have ever heard in. That said, caps, like speakers, are a personal choice and others may prefer a different cap over the ODAM. They are a great speaker with the stock caps, but there are many better caps in the world than what is in there, and there one sand resistor is in a key spot and I am sure even a change to something like a Mills would be audible. I have not heard the pathaudio ones, but many love them so I will use them. |
I would love the hear the Volti Rival.... I bet it is really good. Plus, swapping the resistors or the one exposed coupling cap is trivial. The Cornwall IV, when fully tweaked is pretty good though:) |
oh I will most likely never hear one unless I buy a pair..... I am in SE British Columbia a LONG way from Nashville:) |
The crossover had an earlier iteration, but mine is the later one. A fellow posted the schematic on a klipsch forum, so if yours were made in the past year or so they probably have that schematic, but perhaps you should pull a woofer and check. If fairly recent, then you need a 2.75 uF and a 2.25 uF as these are directly in series with the tweeter. ODAM caps come in a 2.2 and a 2.7 which is well within the 5% spec on the original Klipsch cap. If you ask Chris when you order he will find you high measuring caps to get you closer to 2.25 and 2.75. The other key one is 7 uF which is directly in series with the midrange driver. I got a high measuring 6.8 for each channel, both are over 6.9 and again, that is well within the 5% spec. There is a 60 uF across the woofer that I didn’t change as it is already a poly cap and the VCap ODAM pair to replicate it would be expensive and large, and it is not in series with the woofer so probably not much effect. Lastly there is a 1.5 uF across the midrange. Probably not a huge effect, but I changed it because I use a lot of 1.5 uF caps and had them in stock. Also a 4 uF across the midrange. I also changed that one, but not as key. The key caps are the 7 uF, and the 2.25 and 2.75. The two resistors are 30 ohm in series with the midrange and 8 ohm across the midrange. It is 25 watt rated. The pathaudio resistors are 10 watt rated, and supposedly are very conservatively rated. If you do the math, a 10 watt resistor is probably adequate. Unless you are running the speaker at clipping constantly. The horns are so efficient I seriously doubt that resistor sees anywhere near 10 watts.. Remember that ODAM caps have conductive bodies so be careful in mounting. |
OK, I installed the 30 ohm and 8 ohm pathaudio resistors. I am done and never opening that speaker again!
First off, I understand the concepts of confirmation bias and controlled experiments. I have a PhD and have analyzed tons of data. I have also built at least a thousand pieces of tube equipment. I have my ways of evaluating changes with the same 30-40 test tracks. I listen for very specific things in all of them. Yes, the proper experiment would be to have two pairs of Cornwall IV speakers, one modded, one stock. Both connected at the same time and toggle between them. Better yet, have a blindfold on and have someone else toggle for you. Or a mono signal and one speaker modded and one stock or something along those lines. Yeah sure. Who among us can afford two pairs of the same speaker for such an experiment? Who has the room for that sort of experiment in their living room?
The pathaudio resistors are not quite as big a change as going to the VCap ODAM caps, but the change is quite audible and almost as large. Same things, a little more 3D imaging, but the slightly bright character of the original sand resistor is apparent upon removing it! The pathaudio resistors sound more natural, no brightness, just music. Definitely more clarity and again, no brightness to achieve that clarity. So like the cap change, the speaker is more natural sounding, images slightly better, and there is not a hint of brightness. Just insane levels of detail and punch. You would not really think the stock speaker is bright until you change the caps and resistors in the crossover. I could never go back. I am not changing inductors. First I don't know the values, second the speaker is voiced with that sort of inductor and they all sound different. Honestly, the speaker is amazingly good right now and I have no desire to fool with it again. If you really want to go for it, change the speaker terminals and improve the contact between the wiring and the terminals. You could play with inductors if you were inclined, but I am not. This speaker is a FAR better speaker than the stock one to my ear. Not even close. It retains all of the things you like about the stock one, but it sounds so much more like music.
The Spatial Audio X5 speakers I have also have a VCap ODAM that replaced the Miflex. They are wonderful. I will eventually put them back in the system and evaluate the difference again, but the Cornwalls need another 100 hours or more to be certain the woofers are completely run in and the ODAM caps take 100-200 hours to really run in as well. Again see my comments earlier in the thread. Different speakers for people seeking different things. This last mod with the pathaudio resistors just pushed the Cornwall IV way in how realistic the presentation of instruments and voices are. That is the strength of the X5, so the comparison will be interesting.
Again, I am NOT telling you to modify your crossovers. You will certainly void your warranty. I cannot possibly go back to stock though.... Let's just say if the people who have published reviews of the Cornwall IV had modded the crossovers their jaws would have dropped..... The guys on the Klipsh forum who attacked me for even wanting the schematic and considering messing with their "perfect speakers"... well they can listen to theirs and I can listen to mine. If you could flip a switch on theirs and turn the into these I seriously doubt any of them would go back.....unless they are deaf |
Yes, I have the X5 with ODAM caps (I got Clayton to try them) and the Cornwall IV. It is a tough call and I have to put the X5 back in the system in a couple of weeks when the Cornwalls are completely run in with the new caps and resistors. Again, it really depends on what sort of sound you are after. The X5 are just dead accurate and they don't editorialize at all. The bass is phenominal. The Corwalls...horns are fun and these now have all the attributes of horn speakers, and the bad things are gone. First thing I did when I got them was make a set of jumpers for the two rear terminals out of some nice 12 gauge Duelund I had on hand. Never listened to the stock jumper plates.....
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from above:
I'd be careful what you wish for with upgrades and parts. I've had several speakers with great parts that made my ears ache or ring when played at much lower than safe levels. Frequency has much more to it than can be easily measured.
Trust me, the difference between the stock crossover parts, plus the damping of horns and woofer frames, plus the isolation from the floor on even the cheapo rubberized cork pads.... all of these make the speaker FAR better than the stock one. Not even close to my ear. The stock version is very dynamic, but it is a tad bright. These changes actually improve detail, realism, tone and imaging, and eliminate the brightness. I know people with stock ones don't think they are bright, but they are way better this way and retain all of the things you love about them, and you dont' realize they are bright until you get those cheap caps and and resistors replaced with much better parts. My 2 cents, enjoy your Cornwalls, however they are:). |
Agree, the proper way is with a speaker switch. You can hook the two amps to a switch box and then have one set of leads to the speakers. Toggle amps that way |
That pretty much sums up the cornwall IV. Lots of fun, a wee bit bass shy at the very bottom, but you can live with it because the bass is very fast and tuneful. Yes, I would say they run out of steam somewhere in the 35 Hz range. Would have to measure and I really don't want to bother to set up to do it.
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Hi
No, I am not modding the cabinets at all. Right now I have just damped the horns and woofer frames, and really improved the crossovers with far better parts. If I ever wanted to sell the speakers I have not devalued them in any way, but rather I have improved them. Cutting holes= end of value. I will say that putting ODAM caps in and putting the pathaudio (or other fine resistor I suspect) is a big difference.
No never heard a Tannoy of any sort. Right now I need to put the spatial x5 back in at some point and compare. Two completely different solutions, both with their strengths. The Cornwalls are fun and they do pretty much everything right, but they do bottom out at the very, very low end. Really it isn't an issue. I hate subs as they are tough to integrate and there is always the temptation to fool with them, but a pair of subs to just get you 20-40 Hz reinforcement would do it. You hardly need them with the cornwalls, just on a few tracks that have a lot of energy in the really low end. A piano lowest note is 28 Hz as I recall. The X5 integrated subs were perfect. Once the woofer surrounds loosened up I dialed them down a wee bit and never touched them. Clayton has it worked out.
Still, as you have discovered, the cornwall IV is just tons of fun and you really have to ask yourself if you need a better speaker. Just enjoy the music and don't worry about it. Put a good tube system in front of them and be happy. If you do bother to improve the crossover parts you will hear it, but they are quite nice stock. |
from above:
Hi Don! I started to put together a parts list to modify the crossover caps. I like VCAP much. I've used their CuTFs before. Can you shed some light on where one could cut corners a bit to save cost? The reason I ask is that the mods you did come up to $896 in caps-- All values *2 loudspeakers 2.7 uF $87 2.2 uF $84 6.8 uF $101 1.5 uF $82 4 uF $94 I may do the VCAP ODAMs on 2.7, 2.2 and 6.8 and try something more affordable on the other values.
I used the VCap ODAM because I build a lot of tube gear and they sound better than anything I have ever heard. I have never liked the sound of the teflon caps much. Others have different tastes and that is how it should be. I get OEM pricing on the VCaps because I buy a lot of them. But I cannot sell them under that agreement, only use them for my builds. The retail price starts to go down at quantity 2, but yes, they are expensive little devils! Honestly, the stock caps in the crossover appear to be typical MKP caps. I cannot say how good they are. I put caps in that I know are as good as anything out there and I could hear quite a difference. Also, getting the sand resistor out of there matters a lot too. I used the pathaudio ones at about $25 each, but even a nice Mills or something would be better. The 2.75, 2.25, and 7 uF values are the most important ones for the caps. I left the big one alone as it is just across the woofer. You could probably leave the others alone as well. The three above values are directly in series with the mid and high drivers. I am not sure if something more affordable would be better than what is there now for the other values, I really don't know. I had all but the largest value in stock for the ODAM so I used them. For cheaper options, the multicaps have always been good reliable ones, as well as the mundorf supremes, but not sure these are much better than what it is there now, since they are not labelled and I didn't measure them. The oil filled mundorfs are about as expensive as the vcaps and the I prefer the VCap ODAM to anything mundorf. Again, we all have our tastes.... Lots of folks like Duelunds and I also like the Miflex KPCU, but both are huge for the value and would not fit, and I prefer the ODAM to any of them. |
that is just a drain wire on the pathaudio resistor. You don't even have to connect it if you don't care to. I tied the two of them together and then soldered to woofer ground input. They fit easily on the board |
According to their site it is basically a shielded resistor. I have no idea why that would be necessary, but anyway there is no hum of any sort, the speaker sounds great, I didn't change the values of any parts so the crossover functions as it always has, just sounds better. |
I don't know about damping the cabinets. They may be as lively as Klipsch wanted to work with the woofer to get the sound they want. Or not.... The easiest thing is to make whatever you are doing removeable so you can put it back to stock if you don't like the change |
I have my grills on. I take them off now and then, but honestly, like you say, the speaker sounds great with them on and they look cool and the spousal acceptance factor is very high. Very retro looking. Is it a perfect speaker? Is there a perfect speaker? They are fun and mine are driven by an entirely tube setup that I built and they see about 64 watts/ch. The amp really doesn't know they are connected. Unlimited headroom. The comment above on the bass is my take as well. Good and quick until the mid 30's. I just got a pair of Hsu uls-15 mk2 subs like Oz has and they provide the fill in below 40 Hz. They hardly come on, but they definitely provide a nice fill. It is a very good system and really, I don't need more. Someday I might build an entirely new crossover with the same ODAM caps and the pathaudio resistors I used, but seek out better inductors. I may rebuild the speaker terminals with something a little more convenient and just internally solder the HF leads so there is only one set of inputs. I am not into bi-wiring. Maybe I will get around to this stuff and maybe not. Sounds great as it is. I think the imaging grade of B+ was pretty accurate with the stock crossovers. Putting much better caps in and better resistors brings them into the A range.... |
A few crossover tips from a guy who did it and learned a lot from doing the first board so the second one is neater and cleaner:) VCap ODAM caps have conductive bodies, so make sure the cap body cannot contact the leads or the inductors. Some sort of insulating tape is good in just a few spots where it is tight. The V in the VCap label points towards the output side of the cap. Yes, they are non-polar and it really doesn't matter, but if you are being anal, that is the correct way. I doubt you would hear a difference if they were all mixed up though. Bend the leads with finger pressure, not a pliers. Solder hot and fast, but you knew that. I found it much easier to dry fit the caps, then put a small cable tie base and zip tie on the cap, dry fit again. Then peel the paper off the base and I put some goop adhesive on the board where the cable tie base touches. Then put the cap in and pull down gently to snug the cable tie base to board, solder leads. I let the board dry for an hour or two before installing in the speaker and those caps will never move. I also really felt the pathaudio resistors were a wonderful upgrade as well. They removed the last trace of brightness. With the VCap ODAM and the pathaudio resistors the speaker retains all the things you love about it, but there is more subtle detail and no brightness. I twisted the drain wires of the resistor bodies together and ran them to the main Woofer "- " terminal, which is ground. You just have to wait 50-100 hours for everything to run in, and you will think you have ruined the speaker for the first few minutes! Just wait.....
I never really understood Klipsh. They could have spent $100-200 more per speaker and made them so much better. The rear speaker terminals are not that great. They look nice, but functionally... you can get good Chinese gold plated terminals for $10 a set or less that I would prefer. The connection to the crossovers with the tabs rather than soldering.. well I understand. Much faster to build and if you ever need to pull the crossover you would be swearing as you tried to unsolder the wire unless they left enough service loop so you could pull the assembly from the rear and do it from outside the speaker. Right now I doubt you could as the wire from speaker terminals is pretty tight to the crossover. If I change it all I will leave just enough wire that it could be done from outside. You have a 10 ft run of speaker wire to the box, an extra 6 inches inside is not going to matter that much. I have pulled the woofers three times and really don't want to do it again though. The T nuts in MDF... you don't want to push it. |
Hi
I got the pathaudio ones from hifi collective in the UK. They have FEDEX for about $30. Or mail... They had the values. I would wait until you can do it all at once. Spendy indeed if you don't have OEM accounts, but if you are keeping the speakers it is worth doing in my opinion..... |
I have to do my binding posts as well. I am sure I will have to pull the woofers one more time because as I recall, there is very little service loop so you cannot do it from the rear. An extra inch or two of wire would have made it possible. I will get to it eventually. So @jbhiller , have you got 50+ hours on them since the crossover upgrades? |
Let's just say if the reviewers had heard the speakers with far better crossover parts in them they would have been blown away. The speaker with far better crossover parts, damped horns and woofer frame, proper isolation from the floor... it is not even close. The stock speaker has wonderful dynamics and the reviewers loved them. That said, most reviewers noted that it was the dynamics and tone that they loved and they put up with the sort of B+ grade for imaging and separation of elements in the sound stage. The modded speaker does everything it originally did, but the sound stage and imaging are vastly improved as well as the blackness of the background and separation of elements in the mix. It becomes very good at all the hifi stuff, and retains all of the things that it did well, but it does them better. There is just no contest. |
No, I am a tube amp, preamp, and phono builder, not a speaker guy. I have a pretty big list of things to build. I just do those other things for myself and really don't have the time for youtube or social media. I really wouldn't want to be responsible for someone destroying their speakers and voiding their warranty if they watched my video, but they didn't know what they were doing. Or having to answer multiple inquiries on something that isn't even my product. So I stay out of the limelight.....All I will say is if you know what you are doing you can improve this speaker considerably without losing any of the things you love about them. |
or play most any Bill Evans live recording, or Oscar Peterson live, or .... well you get it..... Scale, power, and if you improve the crossover parts, the micro detail is amazing and no trace of brightness
There are a lot of great speakers in the world, and this is certainly one of them. |
My thoughts exactly schw06. The speaker is an entirely different animal and I could never bear to hear the stock one again:) |
