Isoclean fuses: definitely worth it


I just installed Isoclean fuses in my Naim CD5x and Nait5i. I sort of felt like I was going to the fringe by installing these but keep in mind they are right in the AC path so it made sense to me after installing a dedicated line and an "audiophile grade" AC receptacle.

I tried Buss ceramic fuses beforehand and they were just slightly better than stock.

The Isocleans, however, definitely provided a noticeable improvement over stock or Buss ceramics. In a nutshell: smoother treble, a touch more overall resolution (especially in the mids and treble) and elimination of a bit of grain and veiling. Polarity does matter. I checked a few times to verify but arrow down for my equipment was more natural (less bright) than arrow up. You may prefer the other polarity, of course. Note that they didn't affect rhythm as many products do (especially a lot of isolation devices) nor did they add any brightness (at least in the polarity I prefer).

They're not cheap for what they are ($25 per fuse) but the improvement was definitely worth $50 total investment to me.
greg7
And they were out a year earlier and don't look alike???? The opposite seems to be the case if there was any copying.
Tab110s - obviously you've never seen both the Hi Fi fuses and the Isocleans. They are a long long way from being alike.

Cheers
I would indeed say your experience may vary. I could not stand the HiFi Tuning fuses, but I had been using the IsoCleans for the last year.

Greg7, I have found no instance where an IsoClean does not improve the sound of a component greatly. This includes the five fuses in my Esoteric X-01. In the case of the IsoCleans and the HiFis, you have to get the polarity right. Put the fuse in one way, listen, and then reverse it and listen again. Choose the better sound. HiFi claim they are not directional, but they are.
I first changed the AC mains fuse on the amp few weeks ago and thought things cleared up a bit, but I was really pleasantly surprised just this past weekend when I changed the rail fuses on the amp. I can't beleive the improvement these HiFi tuning fuses provide! The good thing, at least with my amp, is that the fuses have not changed the tonal character of the amp, but the separation of instruments within the soundstage is so much better now. It's amazing! It's odd to pay $25-$30 for a fuse....but they do work and that's the case. Although I spent a total of about $150, it is totally worth it. I am really happy with what was achieved. I just can't think of any tweek for $150 that can improve things more than the fuses did.
"does anyone know which is better, the Isoclean fuses or HIFI tuning?"

Experience obviously differ but HiFi tuning and some other audio grade fuses I tried has left the Isoclean in the trash.
Greg, interesting that you mentioned the elimination of a bit of grain or veiling as those were just a few of the benefits I experienced as well with the IsoClean fuses on the inside rails (4 of them) of my old amp after about 48 hours of burn-in.

Furutech also makes an all silver Rhodium-plated cryo-treated slow blow fuse.

I haven't tried them use but since I just became a Furutech dealer I will shortly.

-IMO
does anyone know which is better, the Isoclean fuses or HIFI tuning? Also, is it beneficial to also upgrade a fuse in a cd player and preamp as well? Or these fuses produce the most difference in amplifiers?
I'm a believer in fuse quality impacting the sonics and discovered an all silver fuse (wire and end caps) that provide greater performance in all areas vs. isoclean.

Noticeable improvements in overall speed, transparency, purity, resolution and imaging precision. I have not tried the German ceramic fuses yet.

Jim Ricketts/tmh audio
http://www.tmhaudio.com
Greg7, in what direction does current flow in AC currents? Or, what does polarity have do do with installing fuses?
Respectfully, Bob P.
I've had equal success with the German HiFi Tuning fuses, which I'm using only because I found them easier to find and buy than the Isocleans. I wouldn't have believed it -- although there is indeed a certain logic to the idea -- but they really work. On the other hand, I found that I could get at least half-way there by removing the existing fuses, cleaning/polishing the contact points (and on the fuseholder too) with Flitz and Caig Pro Gold, and then using Walker SST on them. A good cheap fix if you already have the stuff, as I did. Dave