Sorry for all the conjecture. I see a decent amount of room interaction so I would do what Duke and Eric recommended. Measure close to the driver and just one sub at a time. I would put it in the middle of the room, as space permits, and measure with everything set to flat. The web page mentions a bass boost or "punch" setting? Make sure that is not engaged. And lastly, as has been mentioned, the XLR output is much hotter. Get a cheap 1-2 RCA splitter for both channels and start over. Best of luck and keep us updated.
Is this how a Subwoofer Crossover is supposed to work?
I bought two Starke SW12 subwoofers that I installed. So far I'm not particularly happy with them. They are way too loud even with the volume set almost to off. More importantly, I'm having trouble integrating them into my system and I'm wondering if that is because their crossover setting is really functioning as I understand a crossover should. Attached please find measurements from Room Equalization Wizard with SPL graphs of the two subs (no speakers) taken at my listening position with the crossover set at 50 Hz, 90 Hz, and 130 Hz. Ignore the peaks and dips which I assume are due to room nodes. All of those settings appear to actually have the same crossover point of 50 Hz. All that changes is the slope of the rolloff in sound levels. This isn't how I thought a properly designed crossover was supposed to work. I thought the frequency the levels would start to roll off would change, i.e. flat to 50 hz then a sharp drop, flat to 90 hz then a sharp drop, etc. etc.. But Starke says this is how a subwoofer crossover is supposed to work.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x4cr32pagwg48i/Two%20Subs%20Different%20Crossover%20Points%20No%20Speaker...
Any experts on here with an opinion about this? Is it possible to buy an inexpensive active crossover that I could use in place of what is built into these subs?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x4cr32pagwg48i/Two%20Subs%20Different%20Crossover%20Points%20No%20Speaker...
Any experts on here with an opinion about this? Is it possible to buy an inexpensive active crossover that I could use in place of what is built into these subs?