Is D for Dry? Class D...

Damn,  i hope jeff roland dont read that  

I was reading a readers comment thread on an article about the Covid virus origins in China.  One reader was mouthing off about how we need to go to war against China for allowing the virus out of their labs.   Well first of all, we don't know exactly where this thing came from and secondly, I asked this commenter if he has ever worn a military branch uniform and if he has any experience with wars?   I never got a reply back; my guess is that this guy has not put his money where his mouth is and therefore he should refrain from suggestions of bombing another country unless he fully understands the consequences of that.  
I will use this above analogy in terms of Class D amps:  unless you have experience with some really good Class D amps, don't tell us about how bad they are.   There are some really crappy Class D amps out there, I have heard them, but they also do not cost much money to buy and therefore most likely have not had a lot of good engineering design going into them.   I currently own a pair of Anthem M1 Class D mono block amps and I can assure you that these extremely well engineered amps, not using any ICE type modules, but rather Anthem proprietary liquid cooled output designed sections amazes me in how good it sounds.   I also have a very well regarded Class A/Ab amp and the Anthem Class D amp blows it out of the water in all aspects, hand down.
My monster A/Ab amp sucks down a lot of electricity, makes a ton of heat and runs out of headroom under heavy loading.  My Anthem Class D's make almost no heat, use very little power when not being asked to and have immense headroom with 2000 watts per channel at 4 ohms nominal.  They exhibit almost no distortion and have silky smooth audio ranges.  There is virtually no upper frequency harshness as I have heard in the lower priced Class D type amps using the ICE modules.  I can listen to the Anthems for hours on end with nothing but smooth sound and immense output.

I converted my classic speakers over time to active speakers being run by four (4) Crown 1502 Class D amps . . . and they are far from dry, lifeless, or warmth. This is all subjective . . . and arguing is purely a waste of time. We like what we like, and if you don't . . . DO NOT BUY IT! To argue to become King of the Mountain and win -- WHAT goes beyond my rationale, because I have had people over to listen . . . and what I get from them is the live presence, the detail, and the lack of distortion -- not to mention the sound staging and the lack of fatigue in listening at any level. I did spend time in revamping my system and choosing new drivers to upgrade the speakers . . . it is all purely subjective, but people have respected my accuracy of hearing and good taste in adjusting my sound to what I would consider “close to live”.

I had B&K Momonblock amps . . . and they were no match for what I have now because I have complete control over everything with regard to tweeking and refining my sound . . . and since I paid for it and it is my ears and listening satisfaction that matter to me, I may ask for a critique, but bottom line . . . I listen to it and it is me who has to be satisfied with my sound . . . not professional reviewers, nor outside know it alls . . . people have got to learn to think, listen, and respond as an individual and stop this SINGULARITY mentality . . . or be divided to the point of blows just to make a point -- opinions are just that . . . and everyone is entitled -- despite the current trends. I would suggest a THICKER SKIN!

You can’t cheap out on your amplifier. You just can’t do it. Class D is an audio company attempting to sell product that’s nearly all profit. Class A. Now that’s an amplifier. If it doesn’t heat you out of your room it’s not worth your time. 

Class D dry ? Try the Canor audio class  D amp very nice with tube pre amp . I am saving up for one now .