I need advice on bi amping

Bi-Amp DOES NOT require an external crossover. There is already a cross-over in your speakers, making it impossible for the amplifier to supply power at any frequencies other than what the speaker can take them at.

In almost all woofer crossover circuits (there are always exceptions but rare), there is a series inductor. Effectively what that does is increase in resistance as the frequency goes up. In series with the tweeter is a capacitor that increases in resistance with a decrease in frequency. Yes there is more complexity to it than that, but that is the basics.  What that means is when you bi-amp, the amplifier connected to the woofer, only CAN transmit power and low frequencies. It means the amplifier connected to the tweeter (or tweeter and mid) and only transmit power associated with those frequencies.

In regards to Miller's comment w.r.t. why don't most audiophile bi-amp? For one, most good quality amplifiers have enough capacitance and enough feedback that perturbations in the power supply caused by the bass do not create noticeable pertubations in the the upper frequencies (IM Distortion technically). Many audiophiles like some amps, and don't like others and have no clue what is going on in the circuitry that makes that the case. Most audiophiles I have talked to have never actually even tried to bi-amp.

Me and Miller are in agreement in bass arrays, but I caution against using the term DBA as there are Double Bass Arrays, and what some call Dynamic Bass Arrays (but should just call bass array), and they should not be confused with each other.

Clearthink,

You should probably spend less time on feeble attempts to discredit other posters here, while not offering up any evidence or knowledge to forward an attempt at discrediting, and spend less time on insulting other people here, and spend more time on building your own personal credibility which does not benefit from such personal attacks lacking in substance.

At a minimum, I am sure you are aware that visitors can read both our posts. Where yours is nothing but a personal attack lacking substance, my posts are topically relevant and show a substantial understanding of the underlying technology. While other's may disagree with my conclusions, they will at least acknowledge I do understand the topic being discussed on more than a cursory level.

What conclusion do you think readers will reach with your posts?

Good day.

clearthink1,151 posts04-28-2020 1:46pm
heaudio123"Clearthink, Long on superlatives, and insults, as usual conveying absolutely no information and bringing nothing to the conversation."

Those who lack knowledge, understanding, and plain logic often result to personal attack, insult , and derision in an effort to appear thoughtful, authoritative, and expert so from those type of people I actually accept the "insult" as an actual compliment or praise. Thank you heaudio and best of luck to you in you’re journey towards truth!

What "more" are you looking for?
Bi-Amping can often bring some benefits if you are taxing the amp with bass, but with the subs, I would assume you are not pushing the amp very hard?

It's an old amp, lot has changed. If you feel you must have a new amp, but a better one and sell the Quatre DLH 100 while it has value.

I am sure there will be many different opinions, but unless you have inadequate wire, especially thin gauge, bi-wiring is unlikely to offer much if any improvement.


Ignore the specs for power on the speakers. They tend to be a bit meaningless and depending on how big your room is, 100W in an amplifier with good "reserves", i.e. able to push higher than that for peaks, my be more than sufficient for the volumes you achieve without pushing into clipping.


If you want "loud" then there are speakers for that. If you want "good", then room treatment, perhaps an amp upgrade, etc. etc. are better places to spend your money.

Clearthink, Long on superlatives, and insults, as usual conveying absolutely no information and bringing nothing to the conversation.

To the op, you can ignore "posts" like these from people just out to insult others. Speaker "power" specs are near meaningless. The recommended amplification for your speakers is "up to 250W". What does that mean? Not a whole lot. The majority of speaker "events", i.e. smoke, are from under-powered amplifiers drove into serious clipping, usually by someone using them in "party" mode, not actually listening to music, and to most it would be very obvious something is not "okay". In theory you can bottom out a speaker with a high powered amplifier but again, you are going to notice something is not "right".

Odds are for that speaker, the woofers are rated somewhere around 250W, the tweeters a whole lot less. No one ever drives, except when testing, 250W continuous into a speaker ....

clearthink1,150 posts04-28-2020 10:27am
heaudio123"Ignore the specs for power on the speakers."

That is extremely poor, misinformed, unconsidered advice ignoring power recommendations for speakers is the first step for failing to tune, optimize, and protect you’re speaker system.

With amps that old, careful about channel to channel and amp to amp matching.  If you have an AC volt-meter and a test CD, you can measure it fairly accurately, just keep the frequency at 400Hz and lower on your test signal.  Run the test CD, and measure the output voltage at the amplifier on all channels. Even with speakers connected, at the amp, the voltage should be really close on all channels. A 12% voltage difference is a 1db volume difference if my math skills have not failed me today.