I’ve had a number of tube amps over the years, both integrated and headphone. By design, they all produced some amount of hum. Even though I love the sound tubes produce (which in stereo mode, rarely ever 100% correctly sum to mono in headphones), I couldn’t tolerate the hum (and I’m not referring to the physical or mechanical transformer hum) the amps produced. I no longer have the patience for tubes. I personally now prefer the low distortion and low noise floors solid state provides. I believe what you’re hearing @ervikingo is hum produced by the amps, and it has no relation to the quality of AC power you’re supplying it.
Hum on Tube Amp - Can't find source
I have a hum (60hz) I can hear on my speakers and it happens with my tube monoblocks (either of them). With or without interconnects, it even happens on either amp (have tried one at a time) with every circuit on the house tripped/disconnected, every other component disconnected from the wall (including the Internet/CaTV line) and no interconnects.
One amp has it as soon as it warms up whereas the other one is intermittent.
Hum X doesn't solve it, iFi Ground defender either, AVA HumDinger on powerline doesn't solve it either.
I have replaced the tubes and both amps were just tested at the factory. Replaced the circuit breaker, tightened every wire on the breaker box, checked and cleaned all connections to ground rod. Added a hum eliminator to the internet line.
Hum cycles a bit with the tube glow matching the cycles.
I'm waiting on the power company to come check the power coming to the house.
Thoughts?
Showing 18 responses by dpop
@ervikingo There’s been no mention yet of biasing. Have you checked it for all tubes? From the Manley Snapper manual, this is the rated Noise Floor spec: Typically 105µV = -77dBu A-WGT Typically 388µV = -66dBu unweighted. Depending upon how close your ear is to the speaker (inches away?), with that type of noise floor spec, my ears would probably hear some hum too (especially at -66 dBu). |
I’m glad to hear that.
I would agree with you. All of the tube amps I’ve ever owned, did (have a certain amount of hum). I prefer my noise floors to be in the -95 dBu area (exceptions being vinyl playback). With that in mind, I could never find a tube amp that approached that. I’m not saying they’re not out there, I just however gave up my quest trying to find one. When it comes to tube headphone amps, I also don’t like the fact that rarely have I ever heard one that sums to mono, correctly (like SS does) 100%. This matters when listening to any audio mix, as the mixing engineer many times will pan certain sources to center (mono). Many wouldn’t notice this, or care about it, but I do.
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Lucky you’ve never been there. The sound produced by tubes is many times euphoric, but that hum can drive some nuts (like me). IMO, sometimes there’s a trade-off with tubes. To get that liquidity, you sometimes have to also tolerate (ignore) the hum that sometimes goes along with it, or, if it is present, some don't even notice it. |
I'd love to look at the videos you posted, but I don't have Dropbox, and don't want to sign up for even a trial membership. Can you think of any other way to post them? After powering up the amps, how long before the hum appears? Does the hum then remain constant for the rest of the time after it first surfaces, or does it come and go?
...on all tubes at the same time?
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that's normal. Of the one stereo tube amp I've had in the past with adjustable bias, I never witnessed anything like that when biasing the tubes. Once the tubes warmed up, the bias values were stable. I've worked on many high power FM transmitters with tubes in the past, and never saw tube bias fluctuate very much there either. Once set, it remained there for a lengthy period of time. I'd like to thank you @ervikingo for staying engaged in the conversation. Many come to this board, throw out a question or problem they're experiencing, and never show any interest, or offer any feedback after that. |
Cool! Thanks!
They’ll possibly pull the meter (if they do it quick enough, your generator won’t kick on), check some connections, and they *might* put a logging device on your feed (to monitor your power for a period of time). If you’re around when they get there, they may ask you some questions as to the problem(s) you’re experiencing. Some power companies are also more concerned for their customers needs than others (so be aware). If I remember correctly, most electric companies shoot for 120/240 volts +/- 5 volts. If your voltage fluctuations are within that tolerance, they might ask you then to call an electrician, and have your internal wiring checked out. Technically your local power company is typically not responsible for anything past the meter, so most times they won’t want to enter the property if they don’t have to. Unfortunately, the link you provided above does not work. I’m guessing it’s for a surge protector you’re using. I notice that you have an ATS, but yet the SS amps are quiet with it. Would I be correct in stating that the hum is in sync with when the amp puts through audio (ie, the hum starts at the exact time the amp has warmed up, and is now passing audio)? I have to ask this question. To hear this hum, are you putting your ear against your speaker, or can you hear it from 3’ away?
Hum drives many audiophiles a little crazy, because many of us spend thousands of dollars on equipment, expecting after hooking it all up, to have dead quiet backgrounds. As frustrating as it can be, that unfortunately is not always the case.
Does unplugging the projector have any effect?
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If your amp has them, make sure to run the rear impedance selector switches in the 15K position (it looks like not all Snapper models have them). It’ll be interesting to see if installing 12AT7 tubes has any effect on the hum. I think it will. I just stumbled upon a review of the amp: Soundstage.com Home Audio Equipment Review Here’s a few opinions on substituting 12AX7’s for 12AT7’s: Can I substitute a 12AX7 tube for a 12AT7?
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When it comes to AC power, audio gear, or electronics or electricity in general, I have never seen or heard anything like that ever before. Thanks for sharing the video! Wow, WHAT is going on here? And both amps do this?! Plugging one of these in at a completely different location should also tell us something. Has that been tried yet?
Great suggestion! Since you can’t just pull the electric company meter to simulate a power outage, the ATS would need to have a special function switch to power up and transfer the load. Not all ATS’ have this switch and function, but it’s worth a look. Many generators and ATS’ have test switches, but don’t always transfer the load.
Crazy.
Good call! Let’s see. Hopefully it’s the TPS3A11 version, if the service drop is single phase. |
Wow, these tube amps are more sensitive then I thought. Come to think of it, I was really into tube headphone amps for a while. I discovered that they too were very sensitive to headphone impedance, when it came to low level hum produced by the amp. I weighted the issue, and concluded that the headache just wasn't worth it. I was also many times hearing sporadic plinks, plunks, and noise bursts with tubes, and that drove me a little crazy too. |
I’m assuming you sent it in, because of this problem? If it came back with a clean bill of health from Manley, it sounds like this problem was not taking place when they had it on the bench, otherwise I’m quite sure Manley would have contacted you about it (yes, no, maybe?). |
Another good point. The manual states: Recommended Speaker Load: Optimized for 5 ohms Do you know what impedance your speakers are rated ervikingo?
To me, this is the most concerning factor in this whole scenario. Here’s a few other tidbits from the manual: -For the power tubes in our amplifiers, after a few years if you notice a small revolt going on where several of the output tubes are misbehaving or getting hard to bias, you might consider doing a full re-tube. -Three tube types that are electrically and plug-socket compatible with the 12AT7A dual triode include the 6021, 6679, and the ECC81 (I find it a little interesting that they made no mention of a 12AX7 here). -Never operate the amplifier without a speaker load, or suddenly disconnect the speaker load while the amplifier is producing a signal. This risks punch-through of the enamel insulation covering the transformer’s internal magnet wire. Permanent damage to the output transformer may result -Additionally, it is best to cut power to the Snapper when not in use rather then leaving the power on indefinitely. This will enhance tube and system life.
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Here’s some highlights from the jea48 linked Tubes Asylum discussion: -check the bias as they power up, and let them settle in for a bit (like 20 mins) for a final check. -do not buy new tubes for hi-fi amps from guitar tube suppliers. Buy them from hi-fi tube dealers. Tubes (even matched quartets) sold by most guitar outlets are specially selected to distort early (low transcoductance tubes), therefore they run out of bias adjustment pretty quickly on a HI-Fi amp and there goes another tube! -Manley has checked out the amps (one of them twice) and says there isn’t anything wrong with them. -I have one Snapper that has been back to the shop once. It seems to be holding its own ok in terms of not blowing tubes. The other amp is a different story. It just came home from its second trip to the shop and after two hours of use, blew its B+ fuse and two of the tubes, separating the center post of the two tubes from the tubes themselves. -Try plugging the monoblocks directly into the wall outlet and check the bias to see if you have better bias stability (bypassing any power conditioners). -When you pull output tubes in and out on a regular basis, we have a tendency to stretch out the tube pins and even can cause tiny stress cracks on circuit board..Now this leaves you with low bias or intermittent bias or no bias voltage many times therefore causing tubes to burn up. I don’t know how much technical knowledge you have on this kind of stuff, but I would re-solder the tube socket connections and tighten the pins inside the sockets or even replace the sockets with better ones -Manley’s have not-so-good sockets in them. -yanking tubes in and out of both amps, he could very well have bad sockets in both or loose solder connections at the very least -We are rebiasing the amps each time we replace the tubes. We recheck the bias every few hours and the amps have never held bias well. We are terrified of damaging the output transformers, power supplies, speakers, and everything else. My husband and I have been audio enthusiasts for almost 30 years and the hobby is becoming more stressful than fun with the problems we have had with these amps. We have spent many thousands of dollars (money we don’t have) replacing tubes by the octet since we bought the amps, not to mention the shipping back to Manley.
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