How to isolate aurios to reduce glare?


I recently bought two sets of Aurios MIB's and initially set them under the cdp and pre-amp. I was getting terrible "glare" but as I had, on the same day, added a second amp (Linn aktiv set-up) and new speaker cables, I didn't guess it was from the Aurios. I decided to try them under my speakers and WOW! I couldn't believe how good it was. I had to move my speakers a good 8+ more inches out from the rear wall and now everything is sweet. Now to the question. I have another set of Aurios on the way and from searching through the archives I see that others have had this problem, described by one as "metallic". I'm asking again for ideas on how to use these Aurios most effectively under the cdp. There were benefits but they came with the glare. My rack set-up for the cdp is as follow: Rega Planet2000 on polycrystal cones on a 1/4" glass shelf with 6 isopods between it and an mdf shelf. I built the rack myself(you can see it under my system if it helps). I thought of putting them in place of the isopods but wonder about glass on metal. Put the cones point up on the aurios? Someone mentioned home-made pucks between the aurios and the metal chassis. Any other ideas? Especially welcome are those ideas that use simple household items. Can't afford anything radical after the last frenzy. Thanks very much!!
stuartbranson
I use down turned cones between my cdp and Aurios. The point rests in the center hole of my pro model. This is great if you have no kids or animals that might bump it. Another thought on a budget is to use the isopods between the cdp and the Aurios. Try "Bubble Wrap" between the glass and MDF. Search "Bubble Wrap" to see my experiences.
I recently bought a set of Polycrystal cones. Tap one of your cones against glass and there will be your answer...

I would get some form of line conditioning for your CDP. One of the smaller ONEAC's (2-4 amp)with a C-core transformer and parallel filtration will do the trick. Make sure that's plugged to the last receptacle in your Juice Bar.

Your system looks neat, especially the rack, but it is interfering with imaging. Remember D'Appolito array speakers like the Ninka have a very wide soundstage but not nearly as deep. I would move the speakers forward and toe them in slightly, at the very least. Speaker placement is free...
First, you might want to reconsider the glass shelf, which might be exacerbating the problem. Then: there are several routes you can go to isolate the bottom of a CDP from the tops of Aurios, and it'll be a matter of taste and what works for you. The upgrade balls provided by Aurios (reletively expensive) might do the trick. Or, more cheaply, if you have the vertical clearance you could try putting the whole CPD on a maple cutting board from Bed, Bath and Beyond with the Aurios beneath that. That will provide a warmer, less detailed sound. You can also find small anti-skid rubber stick-ons at an art supply store and attach some to the tops of the Aurios (3M makes a range of such materials called Bumpons that people use, but there are other comparable materials). Finally, Bed, Bath and Beyond sells Thai-made wood and cork coasters for about 1.99 each. Buy three, carve out the cork with a screwdriver (a pain, and you'll feel like a fool while doing it) and then invert them on top of the Aurios, flat side up towards the component. I guarentee all of these things will improve matters for you, and they'll all sound a little different.
Great ideas, thanks. A couple of notes... The isopods are actually vibrapods and the Aurios model I have is the first one with the large opening not the small dimple in the top so I think I can't use the ball bearings.
I'm confused. You had terrible "glare" problems with the first set you tried, and have read that others have had this same problem, so you ordered another set. Maybe the solution is not to use them?

JD