Just click on anyone of the 3 links in my earlier post above. You can then scroll thru the slide show. The latest pic is there. Audiogon for some reason is now blocking the direct link. |
First solder at high heat using the least amount of solder to make a perfect connection. Then you can crimp. Do not crimp first and then solder. |
It never ceases to amaze me how much information you read on the internet that is outright wrong.
If the average person with average skills solders after crimping, the crimped connection will tend to be compromised.
In this case, we are talking about a solid core wire. So once again, I advice soldering at HIGH heat using a minimal amount of solder. Then crimp the connection.
If the wire to be connected to the spade is stranded, I would advice crimp only. |
And the band kept playing on.......
The subject at hand are speaker wire spades and 10g solid core wire. We are not talking about AC circuit breakers, fancy IEC or AC plugs.
WBT screw down spades are a terrible choice for 10g solid core. First one must crimp the wire to a WBT crimp sleeve, then insert into spade and screw down. I advice only using WBT spades for stranded wire. |
The free lesson is over. You (meaning those that need documentation) can experiment on your own. I know what works. I have built perhaps over 100 DIY audio cables of ALL types.
Have a nice day, anyway. |
BTW, the link you provided is a valid approach. Notice that the solder is at the end of the wire, away from the crimp joint. You want to play semantics? I've done many a connection that way myself. Just don't solder where the crimp is, after the crimp is made.
Over and out.................. |
"and would REALLY like to know what could POSSIBLY be gained by crimping ANYTHING after soldering it"
1) Mechanical stability of the chemically bonded solder joint. Especially important in a speaker spade when you may torque down and remove an unknown amount of time over the life of the cable. Solder joints can and do fail under repeated load.
2) Metal to metal contact of the wire and connector, making for a direct contact connection. That is why I advocate to use a minimal amount of solder. You want to crimp onto metal, not solder. |
I use my version of a "butt" technique when joining two solid core capacitor leads. First I remove the outer plating and then flatten the surface with a Dremel carbide. Then I hold the two leads together in a locking hemostat, making a mechanical connection. Next step is to solder the joint permanently connected. I uses a similar technique in making a wire/prong connection when I build AC power cords. So, depending on the connection to be made, I use various techniques. I've already outlined above how I make a solid core wire to spade, speaker wire connection. I use additional "strain" relief besides the crimp. The crimp is most definitely making a conductive connection |
Here is a link as to how I connect a 10g solid core wire to spade.
First clamp bare solid core wire to spade at lower point. Optional is to strip away metal plating on spade at solder contact area. Then solder with high heat at lower point only.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1427.jpg&newest=1
Then crimp connection at upper crimp location creating a direct metal to metal contact.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1428.jpg&newest=1
Then cover in heat shrink to add mechanical strain relief.
Using this method you have a chemical solder bond and a direct mechanical metal to metal crimp connection.
If you can show me a "better" connection, I'd like to see it. |
Driver,
E-mail me your address and I'll send you a finished sample so you can evaluate the connection.
reb |
I uploaded 3 more pictures. Plated surface area of spade removed with carbide, wire clamped to spade with locking hemostat and then soldered, then crimped metal to metal contact and finished with heat shrink.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1430.jpg&newest=1
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1431.jpg&newest=1
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1432.jpg&newest=1
And know, I'm not saying I'm better than anyone else. Just showing how I make this connection. |
Driver,
That spade is small and not meant for audio speakers or amps. It was just a cheapo I had lying around to demonstrate my DIY method. On a larger audio quality spade, the circular surface area would be available as I would solder further back.
reb |
Here, I mounted this very spade onto a banana plug adapter. You can clearly see that in addition to the spade blades. The round nut and curved portion of the spade do indeed make contact. Torque it down and you have a superb connection! I could have soldered the solid core wire curved off to one side and that would have made more surface area available.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=tageditmany |
First off I think that too much of an issue is being made of this simple topic. There are obviously many ways one can make that type of connection. That said, I will comment on what Rick has shown in his video. Firstly you will notice that he also makes both a mechanical and chemical (soldered) connection, as I have advocated. Being that he is in business and needs to make $$$, he can't spend the time a DIY'er can on a single connection.
What he didn't do that he could have if he spent more time was.
1) Clean the solid core conductor before pre-tin.
2) Remove the plating on the spade so that the solder connects to the base metal and not the plating.
In all honesty he has made a fine connection but the sonic result will be inferior to my connection.
He uses too much solder inside that spade which the signal will inevitable pass thru. Yes, it will audibly degrade the sound. Second, the copper conductor never makes physical contact with the spade. What makes contact is the pre-tinned surface, the plated spade surface and the set screw. Plus, I am not a fan of using externally applied flux. Over time I have seen flux residue degrade the connection. I did not see him clean off any flux that may have oozed out.
In my connection, the bare copper makes direct contact with the base metal of the spade at the solder point. Plus makes direct metal to metal contact at the crimp portion.
If I really wanted to and at one time I was seriously thinking about it. I could turn the high end audio wire community onto some of the finest sounding wires available. I'm sitting on several interconnect and power cord designs that are superb. I do nothing about it because the market is already flooded with too much product.
If you think I'm full of myself and am just making an ego play, fine. But let me give you a little more background. I have taken apart dozens of high-end wires (very expensive ones too) to see what is inside. At first it was utter dis-belief at just how fraudulent these expensive wires designs truly are. Most are nothing more than unnecessary over use of insulation and shielding. Many are simply off the shelf wires cloaked in nylon tex-flex braiding. Now don't get me wrong, there are certainly many true high quality products out there that are innovative and honestly marketed. However, none of them are worth anywhere near the prices they command.
Enjoy your day.
bob |
