How much power do Marin Logan Vantages need?

I don't know what the impedance curve looks like on the Vantage but, the figure likely drops as frequency increases due to the electrostatic panels. But.....

The crossover frequency is higher on the Vantage than the Summit, something like 400 Hz I think, therefore it's built in amplifier will be handling the power requirements up to this frequency. Since the range from 400Hz on up typically doesn't require the power absorbed by the lower frequencies, then it's really only the rather low impedance at 20Khz, or the upper end of the spectrum, that is of concern. I doubt seriously this particular speaker needs much more than a 75 or 100 watt amplifier for a moderate size room at normal listening levels. However, it does need an amplifier that remains happy when driving a momentary 1 ohm load and, there we might have a problem.

Modern solid state amplifiers using a moderate amount of feedback (which comprise most of the market today) should not have a problem with this load for normal music program material - where upper treble energy is very light. Tube amplifiers, especially OTL types, might have more of an issue with this demand. For these amplifiers, its best to consult with the amplifier manufacturer for their comments on driving this particular speaker. But for solid state amps, I think you will be fine.

By the way, I have listened to the Vantage driven by a Parasound amplifier (I don't remember the model but, I think its was their 75W classic model) and, it sounded really, really, really good. Just really good.

You will still need a lot of power as the panels drop to 1ohm as it approached 14khz and onwards to 20khz or so. I would recommend something that can double down and is stable to atleast 2ohms.

However, since the bass is powered, you can get away with tubes powering the panels... something Class A that is built solidly to take the pummeling as the FR moves up should be a good choice.

As for me, I used to have the Vantages and I had them powered with ONLY a Rotel RB1070 amp (130w at 8ohm)... and although it wasn't the best sound by a good margin, it still allowed me to enjoy the music. I then moved up to the Rotel RB1090 and now am currently using a Plinius SA102 Class A SS amplifier.

Though I no longer have the Vantages (now, with Summits).

Yeah heir the tub as they say.I know their was a particular amp around $3500 that some folks had mentioned that was really good a "going low".I have what maybe the perfect amp,at least in one sense,the Krell KSA300S.It doubles it's power to 600 at 4ohm 1200 at 2 and a whopping 2,400 at 1 where it can run continuously.If I am not mistake it was a early 90's amp that was only Krell that could run continuous at 1 ohm.Supposedly first and last to do so.Problem is it's worth more than I want to spend on amp (might want three or 5 channel maybe even three Rogue 120's to use in three speaker set up with Meridian Pre with their famous Trinaural processing (Bell Labs in 30's was going to make stereo a 3 box set up with "fill" or "Phantom" speaker but have yet to hear any HT receiver or Dolby product to do it as well Dolby 3 channel stereo.Heard it when installing B&W Nautilus speakers back in 2000 for a guy with a no rears (HT) set up and it was stunning with a NHT1 Center and 803's.But I digress).Maybe if I go up high enough on current like fave standby Bryston 4BST or soft clip tubes.But most decent amps go stable continuous into 2ohm's it's just finding a amp that can handle dip to .07 without breaking up.Maybe another post just about an amp that at 100-200 watts that can handle low dips well is what I should do.
Thanks for above insights.
Chazz