How do you know if you need a power conditioner?


I presently have my audio equipment connected to a dedicated line - is this enough? How does one know if you need a power conditioner? Are there symptoms? Does a power conditioner always improve the sound - or only in certain situations? Is there any way (short of sophisticated electronic measuring tools which I don't have) to tell if your power is relatively clean or dirty?

Thanks in advance.
studioray

Showing 2 responses by nsgarch

1.) If you can, put in a dedicated circuit(s) first. You need a power conditioner if you can't put in a dedicated circuit(s).

2.) If you do 1.) then test the line voltage at different times of the day and night to make sure it stays inside the 118 - 122 Volt range. If it goes above or below, you need a power regenerator (which usually includes a conditioner)

3.) If 2.) shows proper voltage, but you still have noise on the line (from God knows what . . . we won't go into that now) you might need a conditioner, or a balanced power unit, but not necessarily a regenerator.

To recap, there are three different types of, let's call it, "power treatment."

A.) Power conditioner -- mainly provides noise filtering and some amount (usually not enough) surge protection. There are some additional bells and whistles available, such as Cable TV cable isolation to prevent ground hum from that.

B.) Power regenerator -- takes the AC from the wall and "fixes" it so it comes out nice even constant 120V, 60Hz.

C.) Balanced power unit -- takes (regular +/_) 120V to 0V AC and turns it into +60V to -60V AC which results in natural noise cancelling within the powerlines themselves.

Two or three of these devices are often combined within the same unit. However, even if you need all three, it often makes more sense to separate them.

So if you are getting good constant voltage with accurate 60 cycle power from the company; and the lines from your panel to your audio system are not also supplying power to noise-producing devices (frig, fluorescents, dimmers, washer/dryer, microwave, A/C, etc) you shouldn't need nuthin' (and please let me know where on the planet one can find those conditions anymore!)

Oh, and have I mentioned all the 21st century wireless airborne digital hash!! That's right!! It can get into even the most pristine of dedicated lines. It ain't just your daddy's radio anymore!
It's so interesting to read the different experiences people have had. I agree with everyone, but also think it's important to investigate your own particular situation. I used to have a house here in central Tucson. The power grid I was on also serves the U of A and the (huge) U of A Medical Center. The power was always above 122 (usually 123V) and never a hiccup (except occasionally during thunderstorms when it just flat quit!)

So I'd never even thought about power devices. Yes, installing dedicated circuits made a big difference in lowered noise floor and bigger dynamics, and I quit right there (un-intimidated!)

2 years ago, I sold my house and now live in a 50 unit apartment complex ca. 1950. It's on the same grid as my former house. Without even debating the issue, I bought both the ExactPower units and installed them; the balanced unit, for the source stuff, is powered by the main regenerator unit. It was all fed by some nasty 15A branch circuit. It did sound great though, and I settled down to a life of processed power ;~((

Then, one day when labeling the (real fuses) in the fusebox, I ran across a 20A circuit that I couldn't trace to anything. With my adrenalin pumping, and a few mis-steps (read: electrical shocks) later, I discovered it went (ONLY) to an outlet under the kitchen sink, meant for a garbage disposer that was never installed! OH JOY!! ;~))

I bypassed the disposer wall switch, with soldered connections. Changed the wall outlet for audiophile grade. Cleaned and Caig'ed the fuse and socket. Then I made a 12 foot Belden 10AWG umbilical to the ExactPower regenerator and let 'er rip!

Result: Sounds as good as it ever did at my house (Note: my whole system only draws 450 watts at full bore)

Moral: Always label your fuse or breaker panel!

Cheers