How do Klipschorns compare with modern designs?

For dynamic music that uses a lot of percussion, they are very hard to beat, even in stock form. On vocal work, especially female, they do not hold up that well. Mind you, there is a LOT of room for improvement in this very easy to work on design, so keep that in mind. Like anything else, these were built and designed when "parts is parts" and all the parts were about as good as you could get. That was AGES ago... Sean
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Most of the "horn colouration" that you folks hear is due to the horn body itself "ringing". Believe me, they ring like MAD. If you completely damp the throat of the horn ( the ENTIRE "body" or "casting"), the sound will DRASTICALLY change. Minimize the diffraction taking place at the mouth of the horn by chamfering the cabinet to an equal flare ratio or flush mount the horns and the imaging and soundstage will also improve quite noticeably.

As to the bass horn itself, stiffen the cabinet with small internal braces ( large diameter dowel rods unevenly spaced ) and "round" the internal corners. Just like a mid or tweeter horn body, the bass horn should have smooth flares with a gradual radiused flare for best results. Squared corners produce "flat spots" in air turbulence and create internal nodes within the horn that do not help us at all. This mimizes the "boxy" or "hollow" characteristics in vocals that you hear. Most of this is due to the drastic reduction of the box "talking" and the reduction of standing waves and reflections WITHIN the horn body itself.

If you REALLY want to get serious, play with the size of the opening that the woofer feeds into. It is MUCH smaller than the driver itself, creating what is known as a "compression" effect. While this does increase the velocity of sound waves and play with SPL levels generated, it too can contribute to the "boxy" vocal effect. I don't recommend this for the mass majority of "diy'ers" or "tweakers" though.

Improving the wiring in ALL Klipsch speakers can make a HUGE difference in sound quality. My experience is that solid wire works best here, but everyone has their preferences.

As i mentioned in another thread recently, check the polarity of the drivers. Some earlier Klipsch designs fed the "squawker" ( mid horn ) out of phase when compared to the polarity of the woofer and tweeter. Try it both ways and see what sounds best to you. I and several others have always preferred the "in phase" approach as it sounds much more natural. Sean
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Most horn based systems, even those with direct radiating woofers, tend to suffer from the following problems:

1) The frequency chosen to cross between the woofer and mid is in a very critical area. This creates un-natural peaks, dips and overlap between the drivers.

2) The woofers are typically too large to do upper bass and lower mids real well, so the sound comes across as slower than if a smaller, faster driver were covering the same signal.

3) The designer counts on the involvement of the horn throat to lower the "effective operating range" of the mid driver, in effect using it below the point that it would perform optimally. As such, they need to realize that there is a BIG difference between "usable output" and "high quality output".

4) The crossover point further confounds the issue by playing games with the harmonic structure of the human voice. Since the signal is divided between the two drivers ( woofers and mids ) with different transfer characteristics, you experience two different levels of speed, dispersion and placement within the soundstage.

Are you following along here ??? I think that you get the idea. It is not the horns that screw things up, it is the overall design and how it is implimented : ) Sean
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