HiDiamond Power cords...


Has anyone tried the Power 3,2,1 power cords from HiDiamond. If so can you explain in best detail the qualities, strengths and which component you chose it on. I'm also curious which cords they compare to within the market.

Regards Bacardi
bacardi

Showing 26 responses by sabai

Wig,
I just added another HiDiamond Power 3 power cord to my system. With each one I add there are further improvements to the sound.
Bacardi,
Liking the Power 3 has nothing to do with the price point for me. It has to do with the sonics. I did not crimp the wire because the ends of the Power 3 are soldered. The positive differences are much better sound stage, detail/definition, and tonal qualities/harmonics. I must add that I do my own mod to the cord/connection that improves the sonics even more. This is proprietary.
Ozzy,
I have SR power cords (the Hologram D and Precision Reference). I will be receiving the HiDiamond power cords this weekend and will post here once I have a chance to listen to them.
Ozzy,
I just swapped 2 HiDiamond PCs into my system today -- on the transport and the DAC. First impressions -- they are excellent. But since my AMR DP-777 is just breaking in and is in a "transitional" mood I cannot give a more detailed report yet.
Ozzy,
As with all the HiDiamond cables in my system, their PCs excel in low level detail, sound stage, transparency, dynamics and tonality. The continuity of the sound is the clincher -- superior to what SR cables create in my system. The feeling of "being there" is so very real. Hard to put into words -- but not hard to hear. I have never been disappointed in HiDiamond. For me, they are the creme de la creme.
Knghifi,
No, I haven't. Have you tried HiDiamond on your amp? I probably will not use HiDiamond on my power conditioners. Kaplan is recommended for Bybee and Precision Reference is mandatory for SR PowerCell. I have the HiDiamond PCs on my transport and DAC.
Bacardi,
You could call Robert Neill at Worldwide Wholesales to see if they do custom work. But there is an easy way around that. You can patch in the Power 3 to the cord leading from the Powercell by using a burn-in adapter. That's what I do when I run power cords in series. You might even find that you like the synergy of the two cords together.
Wig,
Sounds like I'll have to add more HiDiamond PCs to my system, eventually.
Wig and Bacardi,
What I am noticing with the HD Power 3 power cords is the total naturalness of the sound stage. In my system there is a continuity to the sound stage that was unobtainable with even the top Synergistic Research power cords that I have had in my system that were a heck of a lot more expensive than the Power 3. The imaging is precise and not in your face at all with the Power 3, a bit laid back (but not unnaturally so) as though you were at a performance.

I am listening to a lot of excellent CD remasters lately. I have been collecting the best quality recordings that I can find -- everything from solo lute and piano to chamber music to concertos to symphonic music. What I am hearing with the Power 3 cords in my system (I am fully loomed) is what I would term "performance-grade" -- like being there. These cables are uncanny in what they do. I have not exaggerated anything in my descriptions over the months here. Others have come back to the forums and verified that my descriptions of the Power 3 and other HiDiamond cables are very accurate.
Ozzy and Bacardi,
I think you may remember that I have a front end that comprises an isolation transformer, power regenerator and two power conditioners in series. I just put a HiDiamond Power 3 into the Tesla Plex SE wall receptacle as the first power cord in my system. The results are so impressive that I could use a battery of superlatives to describe how wonderful my system now sounds as a result of this change. Lest I be accused of being over-enthusiastic let's just say I am a very happy camper this evening.
Ldworet,
The Bybee GG SE Speaker Bullets took the system to a whole new level of refinement. The SR Powercell did some of that but on a much more modest level.

I have the Symphony Pro -- the precursor to the QX products from Nordost. Nothing dramatic to write about. Subtle improvements. I am interested in the QX products but I think -- from what I have read -- that they are probably over-priced for what they deliver. I have read reviews where Nordost often delivers four or more of the QX4 to reviewers. They say you need multiple units in your system to experience the best results.

Well, let's see now, at about $2,700 per unit that's 4 x $2,700 = $10,800. That's way out of my league. One unit would be my max. So, always looking for the best bang for my audio buck, I am saving up for a Steinmusic Harmonizer System. Word has it that this product is a real winner -- probably a much bigger bang for the audio buck than four QX4 units -- and no chance of buyer's regret at about $2,000 for the system with rave reviews on all sides. I have yet to read a tepid review of the Steinmusic System.
Radioheadokplayer,
I have not heard of anyone selling them when they moved abroad. I have no idea why moving abroad would change the sound. I live abroad and have a full HiDiamond loom. The HiDiamonds have been replacing my Synergistic Research cables. HiDiamonds are by far the best cables I have ever had in my system. They are not warm at all -- they are natural. Don't listen to anyone -- listen to what your own ears say. You might want to get your toes wet by trying a HiDiamond Power 3 power cord -- nothing short of amazing.
Jriggy,
Every Power 3 in my system sounded great right out of the velvet bag.
Jriggy,
I'm glad you are happy about your choice. At first, a lot of people were very skeptical and there was a lot "happening" on the forums, as you know. But as more people put their toes in the water they started reporting very positive results with their HiDiamond cables -- and the tide turned. HiDiamonds are now accepted as among the best cables that money can buy, if not the very best. And they are certainly by far the very best value in high end cables. IMO.
I find HiDiamonds are more life-like than SR. It is not that SR cables are bad -- some are very good. It is just the sense of realism that is missing. I have not heard the Elements yet so I cannot comment on them.
Bacardi,
The SR MPC wires are driving me nuts. I have limited access behind my system and have to suck in air to get behind there and try to untangle things. I will eventually have a large listening room. Eventualy.

I run SR in series with HiDiamond, Bybee and others to maximize the sonic effects. I have recently added my own modded power cords to the mix and the results are stunning -- flesh-and-blood holography. I don't need to spend thousands of new dollars to achieve excellent sound. I have been able to achieve a lot with a bit of imagination. If you can do something similar then you can get off the merry-go-round and watch everyone else spinning round endlessly -- to the delight of the manufacturers.

Your observation about SR adding more bullets and other gimmicks is spot on. There will be Element SE and then Super Element and then Super Element SE. Just watch and see how long it takes. This is how SR keeps your eyes constantly in motion. Have you seen the long list of SR products people are now trying to dump on Audiogon? Most of these offerings will expire unsold.
Bacardi,
I just swapped an Oyaide M1 plug and F1 IEC for the stock plug and IEC on the HiDiamond P3. Night and day. Amazing.
Calloway,
Yes, I mean changed. It is not difficult to do. You just need a good screwdriver with the right bit. The ends are soldered so they are stiff. Make sure you mark the ground when the wires are out. I only recommend changing these terminations if you are going to use the Oyaide M1 and F1. The less expensive Oyaides do not shine a light to them.
Raks,
Yes, this is a little tricky. The M1/F1 are actually no different from other Oyaide models in this respect. The slots are all the same. You need to turn the screw to make the opening as wide as possible without disengaging the screw from the plate. Then you gently push each soldered end into each slot. A bit of nudging does it.
Ozzy,
They look good but I have no experience with them and I have not tried the P4 yet. I also do a special mod to my P3 and some other power cords that greatly improves the sound.
Bacardi,
If you order the M1/F1 all you need to do is take the terminations off the Power 3 and replace them with the Oyaides. There is no soldering required. Just make sure you get the soldered ends tightly into the slots. You have to familiarize yourself with the Oyaide construction first. The aluminum casing screws on and off. And at the base there are 2 screws for stabilizing the cord in the housing. Then there are the two long screws that let you get inside the housing so you can loosen the inner screws to get the work done. Make sure you mark the ground so you don't get any connections mixed up.
Raks,
I feel the same way.

Calloway,
With all due respect, there is a world of difference between stock or common terminations and the Oyaide M1 and F1. You have to try them to understand. The more "evolved" your system the more sensitive it will be to this kind of modification. I imagine that inexpensive systems might not benefit as much.
Calloway,
The short answer is I have no idea. Frankly, I am not overly concerned about this aspect of the matter because I am not into physics or explanations. I am only concerned with results. If they work that's good enough for me. They work.
Calloway,
You're welcome.

Yo2tup,
You are right -- YMMV. I have found that the best for my system are the M1 and F1. But they do not improve all cords. I tried them on a Bybee Ultra that is terminated with the 046 series and the M1/F1 did not improve the sound. Which tells me just how well-engineered the Ultra is. I have seen photos of a different Bybee PC that is in fact terminated with the M1/F1.