Hi Fi Tuning Supreme fuse-Burn In?


Hello,
I've gone through the Hi Fi Tuning line of fuses starting with their Silver and then on to the Classic Gold.
I recently purchased the the Supreme.
The Supreme does everything I hoped it would but as with anything in this crazy hobby, there's seems to be a trade-off.
I'm getting more clarity and air but the presentation seems to have an edge or sharpness to it.
If everything was just slightly more-should I say organic?-I'd be one happy man.
I have about 60 hours on them.
Will more time smooth things out?
The Gold's are definitely smoother but they lack the air and clarity the Supreme's provide.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

greh

Showing 6 responses by auxinput

Yes, the Silverstar are made from pure silver. They are very fast and bright fuses. So, if you feel they sound nice, they are definitely well broken in.

The Supreme fuses are much better, in my opinion. They are much smoother and don’t have that super bright "silver" edge. They will still have a very fast sound and may start to push the upper mids/highs too much in some systems. 60 hours is not a whole lot of time. I would say run it in for 100 or even 200+ hours before making a final decision.

The old Hi-Fi Tuning Gold were not that great of a fuse. They were warm sounding and at the same time had somewhat of a fast attack. The problem was they sounded somewhat metallic and had a really bad "glare" to them.

There is a new Hi-Fi Tuning "Supreme Cu". They use pure copper wire and end-caps, with the end-caps being gold plated. I suspect they will be a much warmer sounding fuse like the Isoclean, but better.

Heh, interesting feedback.  I actually have found that the normal Hi-Fi Tuning "Supreme" fuse works the best in digital transports or anything that does a "digital only" circuit.  Silverstar is just way too fast/bright (same with Synergistic SR20).  Other fuses, such as Furutech/Isoclean, are just way too slow/warm for digital transports.  I use a dedicated linear power supply for my Lumagen Radiance video processor and the video was the cleanest with Supreme fuse.  Any other fuse would show grainy/dirty video.

As I have said before, my "go to" fuse is Furutech rhodium, but I will use Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme in some instances where a sound or circuit is too slow/warm.  I have found other instances where I need to use a very warm Isoclean or "Supreme Cu" (example would be a Bryston Amp).

I have not tried BLUE or BLACK or Audiomagic fuses.  BLUE is on my list for something to do when I run out of everything else.

Fuses are a tool to help tune a system.  There is no "best fuse".  Just like there is no "best amp", etc. etc.

@greh - disclaiemr: there’s huge controversy in this industry on whether or not fuses make a difference, but since you can actually hear the difference, this doesn’t matter.

The fuse is just one more voltage transfer element in the audio chain, just like power cords and interconnects and speaker wire. Actually, the fuse should be looked at as an element of the power cord, since it usually transfers A/C current, or even possibly DC current in some situations, to feed the audio circuits with power. Just like different power cord metals/plating can influence the sound, the fuses also contribute.

Generally speaking, silver is the best electrical conductor and will transfer current lightening fast. However, in a lot of cases, this can cause negative effects that will present as pushed upper mids/highs, too bright / harsh sound, etc. Gold-plating is a very warm influence and rhodium is the most neutral (in my opinion).

The other impact is reducing the electrical resonance. The fuse is just a tiny wire, but it’s a strung tiny wire in air, usually surrounded by a glass tube. The glass tube will resonant from mechanical vibrations, which causes that thin wire to resonate like a guitar string. This introduces noise into the voltage and can cause instability of current, which reduces resolution and actually reduces bass and body in the sound.  It can also create bright/harsh sound.

The wire will actually have electrical resonance as it charges/discharges the current.

Upgraded fuses will work on reducing that electrical and mechanical resonance by doing multiple things. Using ceramic casing instead of glass. Sometimes winding the internal wire around a non-conductive center-pole. Putting non-resonant filler inside the fuse. Putting anti-resonant coating on the internal melt wire.

Finally, they use much better metals for the internal melt wire and end caps. Pure copper. Pure silver. Mundorf silver/gold mix (Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme). Rhodium, etc.

Like I said, since I haven't tried the BLUE fuses, I don't know what they are going do to the sound.  The only thing people have said is "they sound amazing", but they don't quantify what is being changed.  Since I know how the Furutech and Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme affects system and voltage, I will continue to use those fuses to tune my systems.  I still have several other issues and equipment I need to upgrade and take care of first before I start another journey on "what exactly is this BLUE fuse doing?" .lol.  I have not read the thousand plus posts "Blue" thread.
sorry, I can't comment on tube equipment.  I don't have any experience with that.  I would imagine that you want to be very careful about keeping the stock recommended fuse values.  On tube equipment, the 115/120V AC voltage actually gets converted to a much higher voltage, such as 250V or 300-400V to be able to drive the tubes, so a short in the circuit could have an even more catastrophic impact. 

This is the reverse of normal solid state equipment where the transformer converts 115V AC to something a lot lower - anywhere between 25V to 80V (which can be on some amplifiers).
I have experienced in some cases on preamps that have high current analog circuits (such as Class A) or on HT processors with a ton of op amps that a larger amperage fuse will improve things. For example, replacing the standard 800 mA fuse on a Krell preamp with a 2 A fuse will have a good impact. The music just hits with more authority (such as snare drums, kick drums, impacts, etc.), and it is more open as well. It is like the 2A is letting the music breath. With the smaller 800mA, the sound was more constrained and closed in. You want to be careful with how you do this because the fuse is supposed to be there to protect the entire device if there is a short that occurs somewhere in the circuit. On a normal stereo preamp with only op amps, I probably would not go higher than a 1A.

For amplifiers, I don’t recommend bumping up the fuse much because with amplifiers, the 4A to 15A fuses already carry a good amount of current.

And sorry to say, there is no fast way to burn in a fuse.  You can always burn the fuse in on a separate piece of equipment.