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Hi-Fi Fuses - SNAKE OIL? - or something in it?

There's a lot of chatter about the benefits of those high prices gold plated fuses with silver conductor etc. etc. all over the web and the consensus ranges from FANTASTIC!!! to much more subtle observations.

It makes sense to me, epseically in light of spending lots of $$$ on good power cables, that having a skinny piece of aluminum conductor in a glass tube (i.e. a cheap fuse), in the power loop would be detrimental to the performance of the components.

I decided to revamp my DIY power supply I'd built for the Cambridge Audio 640p phono stage and DACmagic in order to test this out - and since it's a DIY project there is no UL Certification to void.

First, I bypassed the fuse link completely to confirm there would be an improvement and give me the best benchmark to compare against - YEP - BIG DIFFERENCE - much more this, that and the other :-)

So then I started looking for hi-fi fuses - WOW!!! - talk about pricey.

Two fuses for the power supply was going to cost $120+ AND I thought I'd probably have to buy a better quality fuse block to make the most of those fuses.

Then a moment of enlightenment - most power supplies and conditioners are protected by pushbutton breakers and not fuses.

I found breakers of the required current rating and installed them into the power supply. I imediately noticed that there was no deteriation in fidelity when compared to the same unit with the fuse link bypassed - GREAT!.

On reflection, the fuses I had in place were rated at 3 amps - so they use a pretty thin fuse wire in them. If I had used a fuse of a higher rating, i.e. it uses a thicker conductor, then I believe that there would be less of a difference between the fused and bypassed implementations

SO - do the expensive fuses work?

Well the empirical evidence out there would suggest they do
- I do know the cheap fuses are not good!

I know bypassing them does improve the sound - a lot in my case
- BUT THAT'S NOT SAFE FOR ONGOING USE

I know breakers work as good as bypassing the fuse
- BUT MESSING WITH A POWER SUPPLY VOIDS UL CERTIFICATION - NOT GOOD!
- FYI a couple of licensed technicians I know WILL NOT change the design of a power supply at all.

I believe the amount of benefit is related to the fuse rating
- but don't go replacing 3 amp fuses with a 20 amp fuse - that's not safe either.

Whilst looking for fuses I discovered AMR Gold fuses priced at $20/fuse.

Now that's definately more affordable than most others at 3-4 times their price.

One supplier I know of in the US is Avatar Aacoustics

If you have had experience with quality fuses please share - especially if they are "modestly priced" i.e. $20-$30 per fuse. And please provide a source :-)

Also, can anypne confirm that Slow blow fuses are better than regular?

And Remember - IF YOU AIN'T LICENCED - GET A TECHNICIAN!

Many Thanks
williewonka

Showing 3 responses by mitch2

mitch2
4,202 posts
 
Most manufacturers I have spoken with not only don't buy into the audio-specific fuse thing, they advise against it because of questionable ratings and quality.
Last year, I spoke with the head service guy at one of the largest component manufacturers in the US and he said their company was continuing to discuss how to address aftermarket fuses and the effect on warranty, but their current position was that the use of an aftermarket fuse would void the warranty in the event of damage of a questionable nature (that should have been prevented by the stock fuse).
I do know one manufacturer/upgrader who recommends audio fuses in their products but they actually go a half amp higher than with regular fuses because they suspect the audio fuse they use is underrated (because the component kept blowing those fuses until they upped the amperage).
I used to use HiFi Tuning fuses, back when I tried things "just in case" they would make a difference, but I haven't heard a difference compared to stock fuses and I don't worry about fuses and other "last one percent" stuff much anymore.
One thing I would be careful of is bumping fuses up one amp as recommended earlier in this thread. Depending on the rating of the fuse being replaced, a 1A increase could be significant and in general, IMO you are taking a chance on both warranty and protection of your gear when you deviate from the manufacturer's rating.
mitch2
4,202 posts
 
Maybe the "snake oil" isn't that designer fuses don't change (or even improve) the sound, but maybe it has to do with what some are charging for those fuses compared to the relative level of sonic improvement you get compared to using regular fuses.

How close to the sound of a designer fuse can you get by putting a little silver contact paste (Quick Silver Gold) on the ends of a Buss fuse and wrapping it a couple of times with teflon tape for damping? How close does the Acme cryogenically treated Silver Fuse at $12 - $16 come to the pricier models from other companies selling for $50 to $100+?
mitch2
4,202 posts
 
My present fuses are well broken in...having been used & never replaced since they were new, pre 1973.
That raises an interesting question, if OS fuses sound so good maybe we should be looking for NOS fuses :>)

Also, Geoff says
There is also the fuse holder to contend with, a silver plated cryo version appears to be a good place to start.
That has been one of my issues with not only fuses but also connectors on equipment, etc. What is the weakest link? I believe Acme and Furutech both offer upgraded fuse holders if you want to try them.
Actually, I have listened to several of the upgraded fuses including two HiFi Tuning types and the Furutech fuse. I used to have the standard HiFi Tuning fuses in all my gear. I honestly can't say I heard a big difference, especially compared to changing out electronics, or even cables. I have no problem with folks hearing a difference and spending their money to attain that difference, but for me the stock fuses seem to do just fine.
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