Thy will be done.... Nakamichi makes a reference standard type of head unit called the TP-1200 there is a (special shop) model which has no tone controls and upgraded parts. The board is suspened and isolated from vibration and the head unit is merely a control unit. The actual pre-amp is mounted in the rear near the amps the head unit controls a servo activated real volume potentiometer. McIntosh clearly makes the best car amps and a great sounding parametric equalizer as well as a transparent 5 way electronic crossover network with memory presets. Use a Wadia D/A converter As for speakers I intend to use parts from teh new Red Rose R3 speakers. Or perhaps the Proac speakers. Screw the "car speakers" they suck. Use Dynaudio and Focal drivers and Vifa Midbass drivers. Also I hear the new Eminent Technolgy planar diaphram car drivers 20kz-400hz are nice. Stuff it all into a Mercedes E class sedan with the subs working in an free air infinite baffle arrangement over teh rear deck. The front stage drivers must be mounted in kick panels. Don't try to use a wide car like the older s-class because the listeners will be too off center. consider a sheet of VB3 lead septum damping sheet over the transmission tunnel and Dynamat under the roof liner and on the doors. spray Rockford fosgate noise killer in the door ares you can not dynamat. Cars are quiet now (good ones at least) They are small enough to pressurize easily to have convincing bass, luxury cars have enough sound deadening and less over all decay times. Finally the electronics are good enough save for teh d/a converters for cars. Do it in a Mercedes, at least the car will last. Putting a high performance system in a car like a Kia is like putting your home stereo in a room made out of cardboard. (I'm sure this will piss off some people... but it is true- flex is bad in a door panel.
