Help-Looking for Service Manual for ML 23.5

The reason you probably can’t remove the copper bar is because it has two downward bends and connects the two smaller 1900uF regulator caps. Those caps are tough to get to and you’ll need a 5/16 hex box wrench to get the wires off (screwdriver won't fit at that angle). The caps are secured to the bottom panel with can brackets and the easiest way is to unscrew them from the bottom and leave the can in place on the cap. Mark the cap and the can bracket to install the new cap in the same orientation -- it helps a lot trying to align the bracket screws with the bottom panel holes and the holes of the buss bar. Also invest in an extra long nose pliers to hold the nut on the can screws.

I assume you removed the heat sinks from the amp chassis -- that’s the only way of getting to the 1900uF caps.

(Yes, I have taken this beast apart)

I started the process as I did not know if I would get any replys. As I recall it was suppose to be a relaively easy amp to work on and I was right. Yes, took off heat sinks and discovered why the buss would not come out. Already install the larger caps and located my 5/16 open end, which I thought I would have to bring home from work. I seem to have missplaced one of the hex screws that holds the heat sinks on,,,,I might have put it aside to take with me to find proper allen key, but brought home all I had at work.... I hope I can get replacements.....

Had one misshap but I have a guy that can fix, he just did not want to work on the amp for fear of making a multi-hundred dollor error that he would have to fix.

Going back to pull smaller caps and hopefully get replacements in..

Anyone know the size of the screws that hold the heat sinks to the chassis? one has gone missing....

they still exist

https://us.marklevinson.com/contact.html

Yeah, but even their authorised repair shops can't/won't fix due to age, I checked the guy upstate NY, United Radio