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Help / Comments - New Construction - Sort of...

Thanks for taking the time to read this if you are... It is a bit bittersweet for me, but the wife and I have put an offer in on a new home and it has been accepted. It is a bit sad after years of hard work into our current home, however situations with her business really dictate we move and build custom.

Now with the sweet of the bittersweet... The "better half" has also allowed me to use the "bonus room" as my dedicated listening room. It measures roughly 15'8" x 21'9" with a ceiling height of 9'. I have made some "minor" requests to the builder at this time. There is to be a "coffered ceiling" which consists of 6" wide by 8" deep beams... square pattern to consist of nine roughly 5'x7' rectangles. I am hoping this will help with diffusion. I have also requested the entire room be hung with double layers of sheetrock. The room is located on the second floor. Also to have 5 dedicated 20 amp lines ran to the room. On the short wall (behind my listening position) is the "chute" for the chimney from the greatroom below. This is approx 18" deep by 3 feet wide. I have made arrangements for cabinets (waist high) and bookshelves to the ceiling (for vinyl) to flank either side of the chimney chute. Only other option at this point was a solid door as well. I am planning on providing the cryo'd romex and duplex' and plan to have the breakers all on the same leg at the top of the box...

All else is yet to be determined. I have a wife that does not want *any* type of "tacky" sonic correction stuff anywhere... the best I have gotten so far is my Eighth Nerve room pack up...

So any suggestions, must do's... let me know. I am not certain I want double drywall, but was told that the stiffer the wall, the better the bass, and livlier the room, as well as help to isolate the sound.

At this point, we just signed the contract this evening, thus all *could be* changed... however budget is about zip, zero, zilch, nada, you get the idea... thus I worked the above into the room with the builder at this point. However, they estimate it will be 6 to 7 months until closing so if there ARE any "MUST DO" suggestions (afraid there will be many...) I do have time to react.

All help is greatly appreciated. My system link has all my gear, minus my TT that is on the way... Nottingham Spacedeck with Ace Space Arm, ZYX Airy3-S-SB with the Whest phono stage...
audiofankj

Showing 7 responses by jea48

jea48
4,308 posts
 
Audiofanki, they are called engineered I joists. The ones with the 2X4 on the top and bottom are the best. 18" centers, I would think more like 16" centers, hopefully not 19.2" centers. With these I joists the builder usually does not install any bridging supports between them. I would find out how much he would charge you to install solid bridging at least down the center span of the I joists. Sub floor 1/2" or 5/8"? Are you installing a hard wood flooring over this? another 3/4"? If not and it is carpet usually the subfloor is 5/8" min and even 3/4". An above post suggested a min of 1" to 1 1/4 thickness, that is a good idea but you need to get on the ball and talk to the builder. You may have a floor thickness issue of the area just on the other side of the room entry door to contend with.

As for your wall construction you may want to check out this site.

http://www.asc-soundproof.com/iso-diagrams.htm

Jim
jea48
4,308 posts
 
I personally would not want the floor joists on 19.2" centers. Pay the extra for 16" center. Basically you would be adding one "I joist" for every 8' run. 16" center is a lot better solid floor. Something does not add up with the 1/2" sheeting over the floor joists. 3/4" min is usually used if covered by carpet. I bet the house you were looking at was 5/8" subfloor with 5/8" or 3/4" hardwood floor to be added over that.
Sounds like this is just going to be a temporary audio room.
I would forget the extra drywall and such. Save the money for the audio room in the basement. That will be a better room than one on the second floor. Especially if you want to crank up the volume.

Jim
jea48
4,308 posts
 
16" center to center. Do not let the builder talk you out of it. If you can go into one of the houses being built just go to the middle of one of the rooms. Bounce up and down just a little, you will know what I mean. Even heavy walking across the floor you will fell the spring in the floor. If the joists are indeed 19.2" center to center you will want to change the specs on the first floor and the second floor. Now, you know why the builder is installing the joists the max allowed 19.2" center to center. The builder is cutting his cost one "I" joist for every 8' of run. Here is your problem as I see it now. You have already signed the contracts. If you decide you want to change the joist spacing to 16" CC The builder has the pricing leverage. Use your head when you talk to him.
jea48
4,308 posts
 
23/32" that is the thickness, nominal 3/4". Like a 2X4, if you measure it, it is not really a 2X4. The solid bridging in the sound room would be nice. What it will do, no matter where you are walking it will also transfer the load to the joists on either side of the one the weight is on. Did you notice if the T&G was screwed down. In my city it is. Glued and screwed.
Not sure why you want the first layer of rock mud and taped. If you are not going to use wall damping pads between the two layers of rock just make sure the sheet rocker uses a lot of wall adhesive between the two staggered layers of rock. Again glued and screwed. Not nailed. Bass will pop nails over time. Infact I hope the rockers in your area, screw all the rock in the house, not nail it. Also make sure the electrician knows this room will be double rocked. So he can set his rough-in boxes for the correct depth. By the way, any idea the distance your electrical audio oulets will be from the main electrical panel? Those dedicated circuits...
jea48
4,308 posts
 
I got a chance to go out and look at some new homes under constuction. In my earlier post I was mistaken, they are just nailing the sub floor to the "I" joists. Glued and shot down with a nail gun. "I" joists 16" on center. In regards to you personnally screwing down the subfloor, in the audio room on a weekend, I would not do anything in the way of work in the new house with out the builders permission first, unless you are the general and the builder is a subcontractor under you. He will not like it at all. Not to mention it could be a liability issue. If you want it screwed down have the builder do it.
You need to read the info on this website, every thing you ever wanted to know about about an audio room. You will find the answers to you drywall questions.

http://www.asc-soundproof.com/iso-diagrams.htm

Jim
jea48
4,308 posts
 
Audiofankj, Just curious, will you be using any type of damping material between the two sheets of sheetrock?

Jim
jea48
4,308 posts
 
Kirk if you are not going to use a damping material between the two sheets of rock I don't think it will make any difference if the rock is of two different thickness. I would probably just use two sheets of 5/8" and apply PL200 adhesive every 12" so the two sheets can not vibrate against one another caused by heavy LF bass from the audio system.

Jim
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