Help / Comments - New Construction - Sort of...


Thanks for taking the time to read this if you are... It is a bit bittersweet for me, but the wife and I have put an offer in on a new home and it has been accepted. It is a bit sad after years of hard work into our current home, however situations with her business really dictate we move and build custom.

Now with the sweet of the bittersweet... The "better half" has also allowed me to use the "bonus room" as my dedicated listening room. It measures roughly 15'8" x 21'9" with a ceiling height of 9'. I have made some "minor" requests to the builder at this time. There is to be a "coffered ceiling" which consists of 6" wide by 8" deep beams... square pattern to consist of nine roughly 5'x7' rectangles. I am hoping this will help with diffusion. I have also requested the entire room be hung with double layers of sheetrock. The room is located on the second floor. Also to have 5 dedicated 20 amp lines ran to the room. On the short wall (behind my listening position) is the "chute" for the chimney from the greatroom below. This is approx 18" deep by 3 feet wide. I have made arrangements for cabinets (waist high) and bookshelves to the ceiling (for vinyl) to flank either side of the chimney chute. Only other option at this point was a solid door as well. I am planning on providing the cryo'd romex and duplex' and plan to have the breakers all on the same leg at the top of the box...

All else is yet to be determined. I have a wife that does not want *any* type of "tacky" sonic correction stuff anywhere... the best I have gotten so far is my Eighth Nerve room pack up...

So any suggestions, must do's... let me know. I am not certain I want double drywall, but was told that the stiffer the wall, the better the bass, and livlier the room, as well as help to isolate the sound.

At this point, we just signed the contract this evening, thus all *could be* changed... however budget is about zip, zero, zilch, nada, you get the idea... thus I worked the above into the room with the builder at this point. However, they estimate it will be 6 to 7 months until closing so if there ARE any "MUST DO" suggestions (afraid there will be many...) I do have time to react.

All help is greatly appreciated. My system link has all my gear, minus my TT that is on the way... Nottingham Spacedeck with Ace Space Arm, ZYX Airy3-S-SB with the Whest phono stage...
audiofankj

Showing 10 responses by audiofankj

Thanks for all the responses thus far. In general would it be key to double up the floor joists under the room, or the 3/4" plywood screwed? Is it imperative for both? I am just asking in case the builder comes back unable to do it for the cost allocated. Should I request that rather than the double layer of drywall, or keep that as well.

The mention of the 2x6 had my thinking the walls were relatively thin on the innerwalls, perhaps 2x4 (if they go that small for inner wall) I am not positive on the house being framed that I walked through. I will have to drive over tomorrow and take a look again.

Is there an order of importance of what is "key" ?

Thanks for all the links too... some reading to do now.
Thank you Tom. I will shoot you an email later, as my knowledge of construction is very limited at best... I do think the builder we have chosen is using the "I beam" joists under the floor, but I will have to confirm that. Thanks again for all the input.
Ok, I stopped by the subdivision this evening. Our house hasn't begun construction yet, however another with almost exact floorplan is near completion of the framing stage. I think the builder is using what I think I have heard termed as "engineered lumber" ... all of the boards seem to be precut to certain specifications for this "Earth Craft" home... The joists holding up the flooring on the second story bonus room appear to be a 10" long piece of plywood sandwiched with what appears to almost be the size of 2x4's on either end by about 16 feet long (the width of the room)... side view they appear to look just like " I ". The total height/depth of the " I " joists was about 14" tall by the width of the room. The spacing seemed quite wide to me, about 18" or so... I wasn't able to get an extremely accurate measurement. The flooring was 1/2 or 5/8" plywood nailed in. I will most likely go back through when mine is being built and at least screw the floorboards in as well...

Any suggestions on what I saw? - Thanks again.
Tom - Thanks for the email & advice!

Jim - It has been a monsoon here lately, I will most likely try to get up to the subdivision and get a better measurement on the I joists. From what I have seen so far, you are correct. There is no bracing between the I joists, and they seem to be spaced fairly wide at about 20" between the I joists. Is there a rule of thumb to follow or look up? Yeah the sub floor was either 1/2" or 5/8" - I will try to nail that down tomorrow as well. I will not be going with hardwood in that room, as the wife and I plan on turning it into a family room/children play area in 5 or 6 years, thus she wanted it carpeted. At that point I will move the system to the basement which will be a 16' x 24' room. But that may happen further down the road as well, thus I would like to make sure the floor has minimal bounce.

Do either of you feel that putting solid bridging supports down the center span will reinforce the floor enough? Or would you try to add a few more I joists and minimize the spacing between the I joists a few inches? If either of those are done and I am going with carpet, should I ask for another 1/2" layer on top of the initial 1/2" or 5/8"? Or does 1" thick exist and just request that?

As for the noise "isolation" I have a fairly accepting wife. She really isn't worried about me "containing" the sound much at all. Since the back wall (behind the speakers) of the listening room will back up to our beds headboard in our master bedroom I will be installing the "wide green insulation tape" ( found here : http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/Tape.htm ) on the both sides of the studs on that wall. The isolation tape basically seems like a gasket material that will provide for some isolation to reduce the vibration and sound transmission from the drywall to the studs and through to the other sides drywall.

Also, do either of you feel the request for a second layer of drywall will be advantageous? I was thinking more rigidity of the walls would be helpful. If it really isn't helpful to double up the drywall, I will most likely transfer the funds allocated for the additional drywall to the flooring or joists.

FYI- I do have some time to work on this for a few weeks, as our contract just went in last week, they are working on the permits now and should be breaking ground in a few weeks... so by the time the basement is poured and the framing begins, I anticipate it to be at least 6 weeks or so away.

Thanks again for all the help.
Thanks again Jim. I am not fluent in builder/construction terminology, thus I am assuming if I ask the contractor to put the I joists on a 16" center, that is the amount of spacing between the I joists? The house in which I was measuring was not mine, just the same floorplan so I am unaware of what flooring they will be finishing in that room. However, as I am going with carpet you say to request a minimum of 3/4" subfloor? Even though this will most likely be a "temporary" listening room, it will still be five or six years, so I would have no problem with the double drywall of the walls - IF it will help at all sonically. We will most likely turn it into a small home theater room that doubles as a family room.

Thanks again!
Thanks much Tom & Jim - Much appreciated. I was able to drive over again today and re-measure. It does appear the current spacing of the I joists to be 19.2" center to center, I didn't measure this - don't know how I forgot but did measure just about all else. It is as follows, and hopefully not as bad as initially thought:

The I joists are a height of 14" exactly - that is including the "2x4" on each end of the I joist. They are being installed width wise of the room, approx just under 16 feet.

I measured the plywood subfloor to be 3/4" thick with the tape measure. However, stamped onto the subfloor was ' T&G Engineered - 23/32" ' I am assuming this means they are tongue and groove pieces of plywood? Full pieces were 47.5" wide by 8 feet long. They were laid in a staggered pattern as well.

Let me know if this will be sufficient for a subfloor, with the construction glue & 16" on center? Or should I also ask for blocking?

I did have my wife with me, and had her stand in the middle of the room and jump up and down a good foot or so in the air, and I was about a foot from her, there was approx 1-2" of flex noticable in the floor. However with her walking I could feel it, but not notice any bounce... again this may be different with a needle on the record.

Also, this house is just in the beginning stages... frame just went up, plumbing is going in now, and shingles being put on... as the windows were going in today if any of that is of relevance.

Thanks again. Any other thoughts on what to request of the builder before I talk to him? As of now:

- I joists on 16" centers

- minimum of the 23/32" T&G engineered subfloor (if acceptable to you guys?) construction glued to the I joists

Do I ask for the blocking? Or at this time, make certain he is aware I want the primary layer of drywall taped and mudded as normal, then the second layer laid on top and finished...
The flooring appeared to be nailed, however my current neighbor is a retired contractor and mentioned we could go over on a Sunday morning and sink screws into the floor after they had put it in. It seemed fine before, however with the construction glue, would that still be alright to go back and do after the fact?

The request for the first layer of sheetrock to be mudded was advice given to me, that if it is not, it won't be any more effective than just a single layer if both layers aren't mudded. Is this true? I was also told the second layer should be a different thickness to help break up the waves, as if they are the same thickness, it will almost act as just one layer is up and not really help with the transfer of sound. I haven't seen the drywall yet, however I would assume they nail the drywall rather than screw it - that is how most I have seen appear. Not sure about us coming in after the fact and screwing it in, as it will have to be re-mudded again...

again - any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated. Once we have all the "basics" down, I will compose an email stating my wishes on the construction of this room...

good tip to ensure the electrician knows the room will be double rocked to set the boxes at the correct depth.

The main electrical panel will be in the basement, hopefully somewhat centrally located... if that is the case, I assume I will need about a 20-30 ft. run of romex for each duplex...
Spoke with the builder and the I joists will be 16" on centers, subfloor is 3/4" screwed and glued. It sounds like the wall that is "shared" behind the speakers in the listening room, and behing the headboard in the master bedroom will be address with a stagger stud wall... most likely with some type of isolation tape on the studs behind the sheetrock.
Hey Jim-

At this point, no. Just staggering the second layer of drywall, and it should be a different thickness as well. I will be utilizing a damping material tape on the studs, and will be "stagger studding" the wall that the listening room and the master bedroom share. If you have any recommendations let me know - especially if they are reasonable in cost!

Kirk
Thanks Jim-

Do you think it is best to just go with a single layer of sheetrock or to go with the dual layers and the PL200 in between? My concern is I may not be present when they are putting the rock up and will really have no idea if they use enough of the PL200, let alone if they use it at all...

Would appreciate your thoughts, and thanks again.