Have a Victor UA-7045 tonearm coming


I've been searching for either a Victor UA-7082 or a UA-7045 tonearm ever since I purchased my Victor CL-P2 plinth with two arm boards.
The rear arm is almost ready to go, it's a Audio Technica ATP-12T mounted in a custom aluminum armboard. I also had to machine a bracket to add a Jelco JL-45 tonearm cueing device and a tonearm rest. This should be perfect for my low compliance DL-103.I have been looking at both models of the Victor arms and have posted WTB on several forums, watching Ebay but nothing nice has come up. So for the past month I have been keeping an eye out on the Japanese website Yahoo Buyee and finally saw something I liked. It's a clean looking UA-7045 that should work out nicely.
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/v741873067?_=cnZxVG5GZVlFQTA3VEZVTDBjQnRCS1RGYWtnTW1ZOTZORUVmb2R...=I won the auction this morning for $202.81, way cheaper than I've ever seen one of these go for. estimated shipping is around $50.00 via DHL. It takes up to two weeks for the seller to get the arm shipped to Buyee and they will inspect and repackage it for shipment via DHL. So in several weeks I'll have this in my hands.
Since I know the spindle to pivot distance I will machine an armboard for it in advance.
Anybody familiar with this series of arms knows all about the rubber damper in the counterweight stub that degrades and causes the dreaded tonearm droop where the weight starts hanging down.
There are two types of this series of arms, those that have the droop (most) and those that will develop it soon. Aging rubber and gravity never let up. Every arm will eventually have this problem.
I've talked to my friend Elliott about this as he had one of these arms for a short time. He sent me a sketch of a rubber piece that he made from hardware parts that he used to fix his. Between Elliott and the internet I found enough info to figure out how this comes apart but I'm not entirely happy with the fix. Since Victor can't supply the rubber dampers I've been thinking about possibly making a mold and casting them out of urethane. I have samples of urethane coming to me from a supplier so I can compare the hardness of the rubber bushing to the urethane samples to find a close matching durometer value.
The mold will be a simple affair, machined out of aluminum. I need to dig out a vacuum pump buried in my garage to see if it works and I found a vacuum chamber on Ebay for 50 bucks.
Once I get the arm I'll pull the stub off and get some critical measurements and work from there. I can even do a temporary fix on the stub until I have a decent result as I have never cast urethane before.Anyway, I'm very excited to be getting this tonearm and at least one member here (chakster) talks very highly of it.

BillWojo




billwojo

Showing 6 responses by elliottbnewcombjr

Bill,

Congrats,

I was very impressed with the workings when I took the one I had apart before sending it back.

Not to send bad vibes, however, don’t be drilling any holes yet,

the thing could get destroyed, and even if perfect, you might find a great 7082 an hour from now.

Patience, until you have the bird in hand.

Bill,

my two simple tools to refine anti-skate:

most alignment disks (important tool to have in ant case) have enough smooth surface to see the arm react/move in/out while adjusting anti-skate force.

https://www.amazon.com/Hudson-Hi-Fi-Turntable-Cartridge-Protractor/dp/B01MU6AD2E/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=...

Mine is 2 sided, strobe rings on other side, so I use the alignment side, bouncing merrily over the grids, then the important smooth area. I wonder if this single sided one, no strobe, if the other side is smooth, anyone know?

I spin it manually, check it at 3 locations, inner, center, outer areas.

adjust to get very slightly in at inner area, essentially no movement center or outer areas. don’t even look at the indicator dial, just reality.

next, your ear, much nicer than test tracks

side 2, tracks 2 and 3 all 3 guitarists, if you hear the l/r equally, the center distinct and centered, the applause equal then you have it! make a minor adjustment, you willl hear it.

https://www.discogs.com/sell/list?master_id=68141&ev=mb&currency=USD&sort=condition%2Cde...

Of course, you have to be assured your system is truly balanced before doing this.

I use this CD. Is Cassandra dead center? This will help prove system balance.

https://www.discogs.com/sell/item/1116039471

CD version to prove system balance because you cannot yet rely on TT anti-skate setting.

Then use the 3 guitarists for a precision anti-skate adjustment.

Cassandra LP version for more delight, she should still be dead center 






lewm

didn’t mean to be curt, just had to go

It is NOT the grooves that make the inner motion, it is a natural force that occurs, and is proportional to tracking force.

here’s a video of blank vinyl lp showing the natural inward arm movement and cancellation of that inward ’pull’ by anti-skate adjustment.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw99w7d345p7wz5/Blank%20Record%20Antiskate%20Setup.MOV?dl=0

amazon (and others) sells a blank lp for that purpose

https://www.amazon.com/Blank-Vinyl-Records-BLACK-VINYL/dp/B00HZ5T1NA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38AUY9LSQVL0R&a...
..................................

The anti-skate, increased/decreased anti-pull, is to get the stylus ’floating’ in the groove, not pulling against either side

1. preventing wear of both stylus and grooves
2. ready for ’equal’ reaction to l/r side wall information
3. allowing the tip to go deeper in the groove, allowing improved contact with both groove walls, ready for some movement of the cantilever via hills, valleys, caverns
4. anti-skate is more critical with advanced stylus shapes, both to get the advantages of their increased side wall contact area, and avoid damage misalignment can produce.
5. advanced stylus last longer, and do less damage to the groove walls, ONLY IF they are properly aligned, vertical azimuth very important, and if anti-skate gets them to float in the groove.
6. longer life og advanced stylus shapes also depends on proper alignment and anti-skate.

that is why, after I set it physically via no grooves, I then use my specific 3 guitarists tracks and refine the adjustment by ear. And, re-check it from time to time. As I say, use the CD versions to prove your system is properly balanced prior to using the LP version for anti-skate refinement.

Based on my use of advanced stylus shapes, I would never use a tonearm without anti-skate adjustment.

I have also found, when anti-skate is correct, even after my scrub cleaning of some dirty lps, the first play, the stylus, further down the groove, will dig out some very fine white dust/fuzz way down in there, gone on 2nd play. If not properly adjusted, it will not get low enough in the groove to dig that stuff out. Another indicator it is correct.

Misaligned: I got a seriously warped lp for my birthday, President Johnson's speech signing the Civil Rights Law 1965
https://www.discogs.com/sell/release/9963390?ev=rb

even with heavy weight on, it bellied up in the center. Current events, I played it like that. After side one, there was a long thin string/ribbon of black vinyl, the stylus had cut into the side wall, carved it out just like a recording cutter carves the vinyl away. That is a much exaggerated display of misalignment. I'm gonna get a 10lb can of .... to hold it down flat before playing it again. Horray for monster direct drives like my JVC TT81 that can take a lot of weight!

.............................

Now, I use my fairly new alignment lp, it has enough smooth surface, it bumps over the area with grid lines, and I do not use the TT motor, I spin it by hand, Eventually it will develop some grooves cut by the stylus tip, and I will then buy a blank lp.
war of the worlds

The album was one of the first recorded on 48 tracks, using two synchronised 24 track Studer A80s at Advision Studios in London. It was engineered by Geoff Young, who brought the recordings together with only a 16 channel desk
lewm

1. ignore the #’s on the tt arm’s anti-skate dial, they are often way off. I prefer the notched rod/dangling weight of SME type, one of the features of the long arm I bought.

2, start with the blank lp, whatever it’s made of, it get’s you CLOSE

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw99w7d345p7wz5/Blank%20Record%20Antiskate%20Setup.MOV?dl=0

3. REFINE using very familiar music with strong l/r/c content, like the one’s I keep posting (I don’t like test lps, but they can work).

a. CD version to verify the system is truly balanced
b. LP version, adjust anti-skate for matching imaging, done.

4. My familiar music.

a. three distinct guitarists, and equal live audience sounds, side 2, tracks 2 and 3

youtube of that lp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3BzAKHCEvo

b. center done right, Cassandra Wilson on this entire album.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Light-Dawn-Cassandra-Wilson/dp/B000005HBI

c. Eurythmics, Studio LP’s, lots of strong l/r, sound effects, Annie Lennox centered

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurythmics

d. take along CD versions to evaluate a sound system

and bring these two

hear their voices distinctly

https://www.google.com/search?gs_ssp=eJzj4tVP1zc0TDMyM7csK7M0YPSSy8tXyM0vSlUoSU0sKlZIzcsvTc9QyISxAFO...

lots for evaluation, and Richard Burton better sound like Richard Burton

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Wayne%27s_Musical_Version_of_The_War_of_the_Worlds