Getting The Most Out Of My Scout


Hi Folks:

For a variety of reasons I've decided, for now, to keep my VPI Scout and upgrade my cartridge from a Dynavector 20XM to a Dynavector XX2MKII. Before my cartridge arrives and I make the change I'd like to make sure I'm getting the most possible performance out of my Scout. I am aware of the following upgrades that are available through VPI:

300 RPM Motor (I have this already)
Super Platter and Bearing
HRX Mini Feet
JMW9T Arm (with Nordost wiring?)
Stainless Steel Clamp
SDS Speed Control

Are there any I am forgetting?

Here is my question: Which of the available upgrades will provide the biggest performance improvement? If anyone cares to rank order the upgrade options that would be great.

Final question: I am interested in using a better set up jig (better than the stock one from VPI) when I install the new Dyna XX2MKII. Which of those available allow the best cartridge alignment for this table? I've seen a few out there but cannot tell which would be the best to use.

Thanks for your help!
dodgealum

Showing 7 responses by dodgealum

Cmalak:

The Mint Tractor arrived today and a digital stylus force gauge should be here by the weekend. I plan to redo the setup with the 20XM and then put the Scout back in the system to see what improvements can be wrought from a more precise setup. The XX2MkII should be here in a week or so--should be interesting!
Markd51: You are correct--I do not plan to buy all the upgrades listed--only the one or two that provide the biggest bang for the buck. I understand that it would be foolish to double down on an entry level table. But, for reasons I do not wish to get into here, I'd like to keep the Scout and perform sensible, cost effective upgrades (should they exist) in an effort to squeeze out maximum performance from this table. I've gotten some helpful tips here and offline (thanks Islandmandan!) and may get some others from folks who have contemplated the same path forward as me.
OK, it was interesting. I began by checking the setup on my 20XM to see whether I got it right with the VPI jig and a basic Shure stylus gauge. First, I checked the tracking force. I had carefully used the Shure gauge and thought I had it set at 1.85. Wrong! Actual tracking force as measured by the new digital gauge was 2.345. Next up was the alignment. To my utter amazement I found that I had nailed it with the VPI jig. So, rather than put the table back in the system to see what a change in the tracking force would yield, I skipped that step and went right on to setting up the XX2MkII. Using the Mint is not all beer and skittles--it takes time and can be fatiguing (on your eyes, back, nerves, etc). But, after lots of practice with the old fine motor skills I got it right where I wanted. Then set the tracking force at 1.853 and let her rip. Sounded great--I mean really, really great--right out of the box but I got some really minor mistracking in difficult passages so I increased the tracking force to 1.952 and BAM all that went away. Now I'm breaking the cartridge in and with only three sides played am already smitten! Very similar house sound to the 20XM but with much greater resolution, inner detail, speed and frequency extremes. Reviewers sometimes talk about a "veil being lifted". I would say so indeed. Anyhow, got to get back since the side is over and I want to get 10 or 15 hours in before I start any serious listening.

Oh yeah, one other thing. My early JMW9 does not have a fine adjustment screw on the rear stub of the arm. I purchased 1/2" ID O'Rings at the Home Depot for $1 and slid one over the rear stub. This allows me to make super fine adjustments to the tracking force without moving the large counterweight (and screwing up the azmiuth adjustment). This is a nice "fix" if you have one of the older style arms, which are a pain in the neck to get the tracking force right since the slightest movement of the big counterweight yields big changes in the tracking force.
Doak: I thought of this and spent a fair amount of time looking for a table that would work in my application that would substantially outperform the Scout without spending more than double the price--I came up empty. With the XX2MKII now installed I'm feeling pretty darn good about my decision to hang on to the VPI.
I'm wondering what makes the Classic a better table? I can't see substantial design or engineering improvements over the Scout series that would account for significantly better sound. Enlighten me please, Classic advocates.
Well, I've read the Audio Beat review as well as (most) of the posts at the linked forum and I'm not convinced. First, I fail to see how a motor mounted to the plinth of the Classic (no matter how well isolated) can introduce less vibration than the outboard set up on the Scout series. Second, there is no mention of the bearing construction in the review (the website simply says "silent inverted type") so I do not see any evidence of superior bearing design over the Scout series. Third, the Classic uses the noisier 600 RPM motor while most Scouts (like mine) have the upgraded and quieter 300 RPM version. While the feet, tonearm (and wiring) of the Classic are probably superior to those of the Scout, I doubt these are of a magnitude to put the Classic in an entirely different league. Bottom line: these tables are more similar than different and other than a different cosmetic wrap I fail to see what all the fuss is over this table. I suspect the biggest difference sonically has to do with an aluminum versus acrylic platter, which will make the tables sound different though I'm not sure one material is better than the other. Overall, the VPI's are good value for money tables but are not, IMHO, in the same league as some of the better tables out there like the Raven One for example.
No, I have not heard it yet and am certainly open to a change of heart but it just baffles me that it could be that much better given what I've read about the design elements. I'll have to give it a spin and see for myself.