Fuse upgrades? -- 6.3 amp 250v 5X20mm fast blow fuses


I occasional blow a one of these 4 fuses in my McCormack DNA .05 and use cheap fuse replacements costing maybe $.50 a piece.  Can anyone recommend upgrades fuses that might enhance the performance of the amp, but not costing in the SR price range.  Say $1-$5 a piece?   Thanks for any insights.    
whitestix

Showing 5 responses by teo_audio

Cooper-bussmann (USA), LittleFuse(USA), Schurter(Germany) ....and the the favorite of the Japanese audio business for over 50 years, SOC of Japan.

look for long lag fuses from any of those companies, and you'll be part way to the higher end audio grade fuses for a few bucks a pop.

Make sure you replace with the same type (fast low, normal blow, and lag types) as the manufacturer recommends.
30k fuses, eh?

You’re makin’ me think I should go back and finally finish the fuse tech I was working on (tinkering with, off and on) for nearly a decade, and finally bring it to market.
The problem is usually that the fuses (any fuse) cannot be easily made to complete their required job successfully and at the same time handle large transient functions. No one has done it so far, not any ’audiophile’ fuse, either, unless they skirt the edge of proper legal descriptive and actual function of a fuse.

To add, they are highly non-linear, at best....quite large non linear odd order distortions, when under complex dynamic loading, which is what is inside an amplifier.

Tests done with thin wall 99.99% copper tubing as fuse substitutes (found at the given local hobby supply shops), illustrates quite dramatically...just how bad fuses sound. It almost sounds like a double or triple equipment upgrade. It is not subtle. I exaggerate, but not by much. Depends on how the given listener...listens, it depends on what they listen for.

Doing this experiment is not recommended, as one would be incredibly tempted to leave said test devices in place. Unstoppably so. (one would be begging for just one more minute of that incredible sound....!) Unhearing this is pretty well impossible, and will haunt one forever afterward. Do not do this unless you wish to be ruined.

The better fuses from the mentioned companies have beryllium copper end cap available, IIRC. Brass is the second down on the preferred ’cheapies’ list. so,silver plated beryllium copper or what is normally available: tin plated beryllium copper end caps. IIRC, of course.

Digikey probably has the best search engine around for figuring all this out, re targeting the desired items...
"Nickel-Plated Brass Endcaps"

that part you do NOT want.

You want silver plated brass.

One can hear the nickel, in a good system. The McCormack is one of those ’good systems’.

When you get the error message, that exact one, you can just reload the page and the post generally appears.

If not, or not wanting to risk losing the post... just kill the extra post afterward. It’s a permanent edit function available for the given poster.

eg, I can still remove all trace of all my posts, on this forum, at least the bits that have not been quoted. One at a time.

As for sound electrical theory, Geoff’s not really throwing fairy dust over it, it is just that measurements have little to do with how the ear or the amplifier works, beyond a vestigial connection.

Somewhere around 99.99 % of the people here who talk about electrical theory and measurement being king do not design and sell amplifiers and have pretty well zero actual lore and knowledge in these areas other than dogmatic text based references. It’s a very poor and weak position. Like debating football or hockey. Armchair stuff. They're not a  player and they're not in the field.