FR64 cartridge suggestions

My suggestion is to search for Ikeda 9 , the so called ''cantileverless

kinds''. To paraphrase the description of Sumiko 800 as ''better

Breuer '' I would say ''better Decca''.

My suggestion: search for Ikeda 9 series , the so called

cantileverless kinds. To paraphrase the description of Sumiko

800 ''the arm'' as ''better Breur'' I would say this Ikeda is ''better

Decca''.

Thanks to the fact that many, like Lew, have no idea about the

FR cartridge's those  can be get for very modest price. I just got

 Ikeda 9 REX for $2000. On Jauce site. One of the best ever

FR-7fz I got for $1500. However one need to find them first.

I think that thinking is not possible without some assumptions.

But as logic ''prescribes'' if the assumptions are false then

all deduced statements irrespective of their ''logic'' will be

also false. As is, I assume, well known ''our Lew'' has always

some assumptions irrespective of his ''familiarity'' with the

given ''subject matter''. I have no idea why he assumed that

I sold my B-60 replica. The case is that I bought two samples

after my email exchange with the seller. My problem with my

sample was the ''steel pin'' which lead the up and down movement

of the construction. I asked the seller (producer) if I can get

this ''pin'' little bit bigger and made from ''gun metal'' . By his

answer the seller also told me that he will stop with production

because no profit whatever he could made. I got my ''gun metal''

pins bu also bought his last sample. So I still own two samples.

I changed the steel pins for ''gun metal'' kinds and also substituted

the sticky synthetic oil for (smooth) grease.

So thanks to my own improvement I am now satisfy with both my

samples (grin).

One of our most eloquent member ddriveman wrote this

article under title ''MC cartridge mini-shootout: SPU,KOETSU,

FR, IKEDA''. Together with three of his friends they compared

the mentioned carts + SPU (Silver Meister, GM, GOLD GM,

Royal GM) ; Ikeda 9CIII , FR- 7FZ; Koetsu Onyx Platinum and

Coral stone Platinum. Publishing
 time: 09-28-2014.

For the article I need to refer to the writing time. What  I want

to mention are the winners of this ''contest'' : ex aequo Coral

Stone and FR-7 fz.

As far as I know those are the owners of this remarkable

FR-7 fz: Dertonarm, Syntax, Don (Griffiths), chakster,

nandric and ddriverman. Neither of them had any problem

with suspension or other problems.

According to his buying ''philosophy'' Lew would never buy such

an old cart. He would  probably prefer the Coral Stone (grin).

Dear Lew, I knew that you are sportsmanlike. I may be able

to post to you my Ikeda 9C,mk 2 to try. If the REX is better that

is. In about 10 days I will know. You get your best possible

scenario. First listening and testing than deciding.

My buddy Don mentioned to me that  ddriveman wrote an update to

his ''mini-shootout'' . Don provided the reference but I was not able to

find this post. Well for such search one need to search in  the right

place. I assumed ''of course'' that this update was published in our

MM thread. However  this update is published in the ''old Fidelity

Research'' thread. In the mini-shootout the (collective) reviewers

were not able to  adjust Ikeda 9C,mk 3 optimal So while very

promising  this cart was not a real contender. Later on ddriveman

was able to provide Ikeda heashell and Ikeda headshell wire.

This resulted in an ''curious'' finding: he now prefers Ikeda 9C

above FR-7 fz. I would prefer if he had found that both are

equal  fantastic. So, dear Lew, you can change your mind and

 still accept my offer (grin)

BTW the update can be found by FR thread :  07-20-2018 .

@rich121 & solypsa , Is Mr. Tien still in business? I thought he ended his B-60 adventure because of insufficient profit. The ''guidepin'' as solypsa called the thing is actually an ''old-fashioned screw''. I asked Tien to substitute his steel sample for ''gun metal'' kind because of my assumption that this ''metal'' (alloy) will glide better ''against'' steel ,er, glide. Metallurgy  seems to be more art then science while both are ''uneasy domeins '' to me. The same reason(gliding) caused me to substitute silicone oil for grease. I still have the ''old steel kinds'' and checked them in order to refresh my memory. I have no idea how the instrument with which thread is cut is called but assume that the thread is not cut with the right dimension/ tolerance . Aka ''fraction smaller'' then needed. This then causes ''side movement''. Any ''mechanics'' with a late should be able to produce the right ,er, ''screw''.

Solypsa, ''Those damn details'' (grin). My theory was that the

(cut) thread on the screw was the ''guilty party'' but it is ''your

very tip on the screw'' . Aka ''the nose'' on the screw. Considering

the fact that only few complained about its dimensions this

imply that they are not equal. Some are smaller then the other.

This is an huge error for an ''exact replica ''.

My recommendation is Ikeda 9 C , cantileverless kind.

See latest post by ddriverman in FR carts thread.

BTW I assume that you mean with FR-64 the 64S (S=steel).

There is also an FR-64 with aluminum arm wand and round

lateral balance.

The only correct way to solve the problem is to cut an new thread on 

the screw side of the construction . Say 2,5 mm . Than the nose can

be adjusted ( polished)  to 2mm qua dimension to the vertical slot. 

We all will pay Lew if he can convince his ''master machinist'' to

make ''y  x $ '' for the job .  I am willing to transfer the needed

money to Lew in advance.  

Lucky me I never become ''master machinist''. So I see afterwards that

my ''solution'' produces more problems than it solves. The problem is

the nose of the screw. If an ''case'' or ''cover'' on the nose can correct

the  (wrong) thickness of the nose (=1 mm?) the problem  can be solved. 

I.e, the thread is 2mm but the nose is smaller while the vertical slot is

also 2mm.