Viridian: All drivers exhibit some type of roll-off that is mass related. Too heavy of a cone for the capacity of the motor structure and suspension and you lose high frequency response. Too light of a cone for the capacity of the motor and suspension and you lose low frequency response.
These aren't crossovers, they are electrical limitations that are brought about by the mechanical design traits of the driver. Given that the entire cone is excited relatively equally across the audible bandwidth, the individual sections of different material types found in the driver are all sharing the load equally.
As far as the ringing of the driver goes, much of this has to do with Ohm's poor choice of type and quantity of damping material inside the cabinet and the horribly attrocious speaker cable used. Fix these two things and you go a long way towards having a much better speaker. Just remember that Ohm used different voice coils on the A's & F's, different frames / support structures, different types / quantities / placements of damping material. As such, each speaker system might be different and would require individual amounts of TLC of different types and in various areas.
Once you've got all of that straightened out, then all you need is an amp that can produce gobs of current and can deal with a high level of reflected EMF and you'll be even better. You have to remember, just as the amp directly modulates the voice coil in this design, the reflected emf from the driver directly modulates the output of the amp. There's no loss or "buffer" from ANY type of a crossover on this design. Not all amps are load stable. As such, some will change tonal balance, distortion characteristics, harmonic structure, transient response, etc... as the drive levels and amount of reflected EMF varies.
Now factor in that this is a very low impedance design, so your "high bias" Class AB amp will be switching over to Class B mode extremely rapidly. In effect, 10 watts of Class A power will only get you about 2.5 watts of Class A power with the F's. If you've got a typical Class AB amp, your 2 watts of Class A power will get you about half a watt of Class A power before switching over to Class B output. Now you get to listen to the constant crossover distortion that is so prevalent in most amps. This is one of the reasons that very high bias AB or straight Class A amps tend to sound so much "sweeter" and "cohesive" i.e. less crossover distortion.
Given that these speakers are appr 82 dB's in sensitivity, unless your amp is of a VERY high bias design, you'll be operating in Class B mode for the majority of listening. Needless to say, this is a very demanding speaker and most amps simply aren't up to the task.
For sake of reference, the amps that i'm runnning with my F's are rated at 250 @ 8 and 500 @ 4. I've conservatively guessed that i've got appr 800+ wpc @ 2 ohms, which the F dips noticeably below. According to the manufacturer of this amp, the first 50 watts are Class A @ 8 ohms, leaving us with 25 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms and 12.5 watts of Class A @ 2 ohms. This keeps the amp from constantly crossing into Class B operation during normal listening levels. I've performed quite a few mods to these amps i.e. cleaned up the signal path, pulled appr 4 feet of wire from each amp chassis by re-routing the internal cabling, added bypass caps as needed, etc... All of the internals are wired with Cardas cabling too. For the record, the Cardas was installed at the factory, not by me.
As was posted in a previous thread, Bill at Millersound considers the Ohm A's and then the Ohm F's to be the finest speakers he's ever heard once he's done modifying them. Coming from someone that has repaired / modified everything from Wilson's to garage sale specials, this is pretty high praise. Then again and based on what Bill told me over the phone, he changes the voice coil, the spider and the foam surround. In effect, the only thing that remains stock is the actual cone of the driver.
Bill says that this brings the nominal impedance up quite a bit, making it an easier load on the amp. The sensitivity is also drastically increased, resulting on a further reduction in strain on the amp. Transient response is also improved due to less driver sag and keeping the voice coil in the magnetic gap of the motor structure. This in turn reduces the ringing since the efficiency of the motor is increased, therefore increasing control over the cone itself.
Other than that, i've got a very large set of E-stat's with dipolar woofers, large 5 driver four way towers, time-aligned monitors with subs, several different horns, etc... The F's, even without Bill's "re-design", are still my favourite speaker. They just do some things that no other speaker that i've ever heard can do. That is, once i found some amps that could do them justice and tweaked the tar out of them : ) Sean
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These aren't crossovers, they are electrical limitations that are brought about by the mechanical design traits of the driver. Given that the entire cone is excited relatively equally across the audible bandwidth, the individual sections of different material types found in the driver are all sharing the load equally.
As far as the ringing of the driver goes, much of this has to do with Ohm's poor choice of type and quantity of damping material inside the cabinet and the horribly attrocious speaker cable used. Fix these two things and you go a long way towards having a much better speaker. Just remember that Ohm used different voice coils on the A's & F's, different frames / support structures, different types / quantities / placements of damping material. As such, each speaker system might be different and would require individual amounts of TLC of different types and in various areas.
Once you've got all of that straightened out, then all you need is an amp that can produce gobs of current and can deal with a high level of reflected EMF and you'll be even better. You have to remember, just as the amp directly modulates the voice coil in this design, the reflected emf from the driver directly modulates the output of the amp. There's no loss or "buffer" from ANY type of a crossover on this design. Not all amps are load stable. As such, some will change tonal balance, distortion characteristics, harmonic structure, transient response, etc... as the drive levels and amount of reflected EMF varies.
Now factor in that this is a very low impedance design, so your "high bias" Class AB amp will be switching over to Class B mode extremely rapidly. In effect, 10 watts of Class A power will only get you about 2.5 watts of Class A power with the F's. If you've got a typical Class AB amp, your 2 watts of Class A power will get you about half a watt of Class A power before switching over to Class B output. Now you get to listen to the constant crossover distortion that is so prevalent in most amps. This is one of the reasons that very high bias AB or straight Class A amps tend to sound so much "sweeter" and "cohesive" i.e. less crossover distortion.
Given that these speakers are appr 82 dB's in sensitivity, unless your amp is of a VERY high bias design, you'll be operating in Class B mode for the majority of listening. Needless to say, this is a very demanding speaker and most amps simply aren't up to the task.
For sake of reference, the amps that i'm runnning with my F's are rated at 250 @ 8 and 500 @ 4. I've conservatively guessed that i've got appr 800+ wpc @ 2 ohms, which the F dips noticeably below. According to the manufacturer of this amp, the first 50 watts are Class A @ 8 ohms, leaving us with 25 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms and 12.5 watts of Class A @ 2 ohms. This keeps the amp from constantly crossing into Class B operation during normal listening levels. I've performed quite a few mods to these amps i.e. cleaned up the signal path, pulled appr 4 feet of wire from each amp chassis by re-routing the internal cabling, added bypass caps as needed, etc... All of the internals are wired with Cardas cabling too. For the record, the Cardas was installed at the factory, not by me.
As was posted in a previous thread, Bill at Millersound considers the Ohm A's and then the Ohm F's to be the finest speakers he's ever heard once he's done modifying them. Coming from someone that has repaired / modified everything from Wilson's to garage sale specials, this is pretty high praise. Then again and based on what Bill told me over the phone, he changes the voice coil, the spider and the foam surround. In effect, the only thing that remains stock is the actual cone of the driver.
Bill says that this brings the nominal impedance up quite a bit, making it an easier load on the amp. The sensitivity is also drastically increased, resulting on a further reduction in strain on the amp. Transient response is also improved due to less driver sag and keeping the voice coil in the magnetic gap of the motor structure. This in turn reduces the ringing since the efficiency of the motor is increased, therefore increasing control over the cone itself.
Other than that, i've got a very large set of E-stat's with dipolar woofers, large 5 driver four way towers, time-aligned monitors with subs, several different horns, etc... The F's, even without Bill's "re-design", are still my favourite speaker. They just do some things that no other speaker that i've ever heard can do. That is, once i found some amps that could do them justice and tweaked the tar out of them : ) Sean
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