Expanding questions about tubes in a preamp

Skeptics say anecdotal, audiophiles say empirical. 

Whatever is the most cutting. 🤗

What a maroon! 🐰 I guess audio school can’t fix your hearing. Tee hee

ieales
A with tube damper testing is it is impossible to install / adjust them without moving the tube and refreshing contacts.

Dampers could work by two methods: Vibration control and resonance damping. Assuming the envelope vibrates, what happens? The tube is a vacuum and sound does not travel in a vacuum. It could damp sound, which has very little energy, from travelling down the envelope to the base and up into the electrodes. One should be able to mathematically calculate the energy required to vibrate the electrodes. If resonance damping is the m.o. then where the damper is placed will affect its utility. Since all tubes vary slightly, how does one know if the location is correct for the particular tube. Model or item. AT, AU, AX, AY, BH // 66, 77, 88, 90, 120 150 for but two families.

It is quite trivial to set up a test wherein one records the output of a tube device w/wo dampers and delta the difference.

Since damper claims are anecdotal, I assume it’s never been proven.

>>>>>You sure make a lot of assumptions. When you ASSUME something you make a fool out of me and UMA Thurman.

Did you learn that in audio school, wolf boy? 😳

Uh, they’re all microphonic, even the ones that say ultra low microphonics. I used to get all my 12AX7s and other tubes from an insider who worked in maintenance at Goddard Space Flight Center, they were all WA military grade tubes. Sylvania, RCA, mostly. The only tube dampers that actually work and don’t hurt the sound are Herbies tube dampers. The rest of them you can throw in the trash. On 6SN7 tubes you should realize even better performance by using two, two dampers, one on the glass where the getter is located and another on the tube base. Yes, I know what you’re thinking, “but then I’d be spending more for dampers than I did for the tubes!”