Environmental Potentials whole house surge protection, can I get your opinions?


I'd like to protect my whole house from surges rather than use individual units around the house.
The power on the NE is pretty good, but I know all it takes one bad zap. Have any of you installed this unit and do you think it works?
gdnrbob

Showing 12 responses by westom

No protector does protection. Effective protectors (ie whole house) are connecting devices to what does protection. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Protection is defined by what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules - single point earth ground.

Ineffective and obscenely profitable devices such as a Furman are only magic boxes hyped subjectively as surge protectors. Subjective means a recommendation has no spec numbers. No numbers is how ineffective products get recommended. Where does it claim to absorb hundreds of thousands of joules?

Type 1 does not define protection . Type 1 is a human safety parameter. A world’s best Type 3 protector in a Type 1 location means a potential fire.

Key to protection is the quality of and connection to earth ground. Since that is where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Protection is always defined by spec number.

Key to protection is a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to single point earth ground. All four words have electrical significance. That hardwire connection must have no sharp bends, no splices, separated from other non-grounding wires, and not inside metallic conduit.

Above is protection from ’each’ surge. Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal ’whole house’ protector is 50,000 amps. ’Life expectancy’ means an effective protection remains effective for decades.

Above discusses effective protection from ’each’ surge and protector ’life expectancy’ for decades - with numbers. All appliances already contain robust surge protection. Your concern is a rare transient that may overwhelm that protection - maybe once every seven years. That potentially destructive transient is the primary purpose of a properly earthed ’whole house’ protector.

A ’whole house’ protector is protection from all types of surges - including direct lightning strikes. Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Some previously discussed protectors have no earth ground - do not claim to protect from potentially destructive surges. Those plug-in devices (ie Furman) must be protected by a properly earthed ’whole house’ solution. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Then even direct lightning strikes cause no damage.

A fuse provides "protection" and earth ground has nothing to do with its effectiveness. And your reference to " hundreds of thousands of joules" is an arbitrary figure.

Obvious is when one recites hearsay. For example, a fuse myth is promoted subjectively - without numbers. Those numbers: 1) Surges do damage in microseconds. Fuses take tens of milliseconds or longer to respond. Numbers make it obvious. A fuse does not do and does not claim to do such protection.

2) How does a millimeters gap in a fuse block what three miles of sky could not? It doesn’t. But again, the subjective and inaccurate speculation is exposed by numbers.

3) Fuses have a voltage number. For example 250 volt. If a surge voltage exceeds that number, then a blown fuse keeps conducting. One should learn these basic and well understood concepts BEFORE posting denials.

People who do this stuff use numbers such as hundreds of thousands of joules. If one knew otherwise, then an energy number is posted rather than make subjective denials. Subjective reasoning is how junk science gets promoted. One claims Furman does effective protection. But could not post even one Furman spec number that says so. Because Furman does not claim effective protection - except subjectively in sales brochures where lying is legal.

Facilities that cannot have damage properly earth all incoming wires. Some wires do not even have surge protectors. A hardwire connects low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to single point earth ground.

Protectors are simply connecting devices to what does protection. Every protection layer is only defined by one ’energy absorbing’ item - its earth ground. Ineffective and grossly overpriced ’magic boxes’ (ie Furman) have no earth ground. And will not discuss it.

’Whole house’ protector is a ’secondary’ protection layer. Informed consumers should also inspect their ’primary’ protection layer. Over 100 years of science and experience are why ’whole house’ protection is routinely installed in every facility that cannot have damage. And why an item that needs most attention is the single point earth ground.  Specification numbers say why including 50,000+ amps, microsecond transients, low impedance connection to a single point earth ground, and hundreds of thousands of joules. This superior solution also costs much less - about $1 per protected appliance. Even a Furman needs that protection. Made obvious when one attempts to post manufacturer specification numbers. None were posted because none exist.

That Eaton (Cutler Hammer) protector is an effective one.  Other manufacturer are also known for integrity including Intermatic, Square D, Ditek, Siemens, Polyphaser (an industry benchmark), Syscom, Leviton, ABB, Delta, Erico, and General Electric.   In every case, model numbers are irrelevant.  Critical is its current rating (at least 50,000 amps) and that all so important hardwire for a low impedance (ie has no sharp bends) connection to single point earth ground.  Electric companies also rent them.  So easily installed that the girl who reads a meter may install it.

I’m not sure why you call fuses a "myth."
Those that deny do not even read what is posted. Only read what they want to read. Nobody said a fuse is a myth. Defined is the "fuse myth". Quoted so that what was posted might be read this time:
For example, a fuse myth is promoted subjectively - without numbers.
Fuses do what they are designed to do. Something completely different and invented by wild speculation is a "fuse myth". Fuses protect human life AFTER hardware damage occurs. So that fire and electrocution does not happen. Only myths and wild speculation claim a fuse will protect hardware. That myth is invented by many who ignore manufacturer specification numbers.

That "fuse myth" was expose three times over with numbers. Only one (who reads what he wants to believe) would read, "fuses are a myth".  


gndrbob - that Eaton is part of an effective protection 'system' from direct lightning strikes ONLY if it connects low impedance to what is doing protection. Again, the world’s best protector does not protect from any potentially destructive surge (ie lightning).  A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Single point earth ground - as required by code (despite denials) - does that protection. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

No earth ground means no lightning protection.

Lightning rod does not protect from lightning. Lightning rod is effective when it connects to what protects from lightning - earth ground. ’Whole house’ protector is effective when it connects to what protects from lightning - earth ground. One system protects a structure. Latter system protects appliances inside that structure even from direct lightning strikes.

Earth ground defined by code may be insufficient. That Cutler-Hammer (Eaton) and Siemens are effective protection from direct lightning only when earthing exceeds National Electrical Code (NEC) requirements.

For example, find a bare, quarter inch, solid copper wire that connects your breaker box to earth. A ’whole house’ protector is compromised if that wire goes up over a foundation and down to an earth ground rod. Wire is too long. It has sharp bends over a foundation. It is bundled with other non-grounding wires. All compromise protection.

Whereas that ground wire is sufficient for code (for human safety), it is insufficient for grounding a ’whole house’ protector (for transistor safety). That hardwire must be routed through a foundation and down to earthing electrodes to be shorter and to eliminate sharp bends.

Impedance is taught to engineers; but not to electricians. Electricians are taught code - for human safety. Transistor (appliance) safety means doing things that both meet and exceed code. Connection to (ie impedance) and quality of single point earth ground define protection even from direct lightning strikes.  As we engineers did decades ago.

Protection from direct lightning strikes is provided by what makes Eaton and Siemens protectors effective. A low impedance (ie hardwire not inside metallic conduit) connection to single point earth ground.

Cable already has best protection.  A hardwire, required by code and installed for free by a cable company, connects directly to a same ground. That is best protection.

Telephone cannot connect direct to earth.  So your telco installs a ’whole house’ protector for free. That protector is only doing what an above hardwire does better. Connects to earth.

Only incoming utility that may have no protection is AC electric. Protection is required on other wires but not on AC electric. Protection even from direct lightning strikes exists only if that Cutler Hammer or Siemens protector connects low impedance to earth.

Term ’low impedance’ is deliberately repeated obnoxiously. Because low impedance connection to single point earth ground is critical for effective protection. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

That is ’secondary’ protection. Also ask about the ’primary’ protection layer.

If warranty proved anything, then GM products have always been superior to Honda and Toyota.  Good luck getting every GM warranty honored.  Dealers,. too often, get stuck with costs.  So dealers will do anything to avoid honoring that warranty.

A lesson from free market economics - in numerous industries.  A best warranty often indicates an inferior product.  Salesmen will do anything to make a sale.

Protection for over 100 years has always been about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.  Only one item has always existed in every protection 'system':  earth ground.  A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.  A plug-in protector does not have and will not discuss that low impedance connection to earth.

Best protection (that is also a least expensive solution) is properly earthed 'whole house' protector.   Then a homeowner inspects THE most critical item in that solution.  Every incoming wire (TV cable, satellite dish, telephone, OTA antenna - every) must connect low impedance to single point earth ground.

That is only 'secondary' protection. An informed homeowner also inspects their 'primary' surge protection layer.

All this described previously with spec numbers.  Numbers separate an informed recommendation from those who recite advertising, hearsay, and wild speculation.  Who even mistakenly believe a warranty rather than specification numbers.

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.  Then protection even from direct lightning strikes remains functional for decades.  Because protection is only as effective as its only required and so essential component - earth ground.  Not wall receptacle safety ground.  Earth ground.

Maximum Surge Current:6,500 Amps
Response Time:1 nanosecond
Spike Clamping Voltage:188 VAC peak @ 3,000 Amps

More effective protectors use L-N, L-G, and G-N protection. Furman only uses L-N. Does not matter. They are selling to people who have no idea if protection works. Furman’s near zero protection is hyped subjectively as 100% protection. Because eyes routinely glaze over with numbers. And fewer do not know what those numbers mean.

Second, if all 6500 amps go line to neutral, then at 188 volts, it can ’block’ or ’absorb’ a surge that is less than 32 joules. How does that ’block’ or ’absorb’ surges that are near zero - hundreds or a thousand joules? It doesn’t. They needed you to completely ignore or completely misunderstand numbers. Your numbers define protection as close to zero as possible without being zero protection. Just enough above zero to by hyped as 100% protection.

Third, if 6500 amps are incoming, then what is an outgoing path? It is electricity. Both an incoming and an outgoing path to earth must exist. Incoming on AC mains. At the exact same time, that current is outgoing via attached appliances. They market to consumers who forget how electricity works and how surges do damage. Incoming on AC mains. At the same time, outgoing destructively to earth.

Fourth, that L-N protection for a surge seeking earth ground means a surge incoming on a black (hot) wire now has two destructive paths into attached appliances. No problem for tiny 100 joule surges. Since surges that tiny are routinely converted by electronics into rock stable, low DC voltages to safely power semiconductors. Better protection is already inside electronics.

Thank you for providing numbers. Numbers demonstrate what does work, what are expensive scams, and what you did not understand. Furman protector does nothing for surges inside and hunting for earth ground destructively via appliances. Protection has always been about earthing a destructive transient BEFORE it can enter a building. Always - as was standard even over 100 years ago.

whart -
best time to install surge protection is when footings are poured. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Learn about Ufer grounds. Ufer originally pioneered this technology to protect munitions dumps from direct lightning strikes. Same protection is in telephone COs so that a $multi-million switching computer does not suffer damage during thunderstorms. COs typically suffer about 100 surges per storm. How often is your town without phone service for four days while they replace that computer? Why is service maintained during and after each storm? Learn about the most critical item in a surge protection *system* - earth ground. Telcos do not waste money on Furman type protection.

One example of how a radio station installed an Ufer ground and what is best protection for so little money:
http://scott-inc.com/html/ufer.htm

More information:
http://www.mikeholt.com/mojonewsarchive/GB-HTML/HTML/UferGroundPsi~20030930.htm

Effective manufacturers who provide protectors from direct lighting strikes will not warranty protection. Best warranties are found on the least effective (and high profit) devices. Type is irrelevant. Type defines human safety parameters. For appliance protection, that protector must conduct at least 50,000 amps. Protection is never defined by a protector. Protection is defined by quality of and a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to single point earth ground. Ufer ground is an ideal example. Nobody will warranty what does the protection - earth ground.

That protector demonstrated by jea48 is rented from and installed by electric companies. Often a girl who reads meters might install it. Effective protection is that easy - but only if your earth ground both meets and exceeds code requirements.


If isolation transformers did that protection, then a utility transformer that provides AC power means no anomalies exist.  Other potentially destructive anomalies act just like lightning.  We simply use lightning as an example of all other potentially destructive anomalies created by stray cars, grid switching, tree rodents, linemen errors, and wind.

Even existing buildings must have earth ground inspected - often upgraded.  Any earth ground that only meets today's human safety codes (ie NEC) is often insufficient earthing for appliance safety.  Plenty of questions about earthing should exist.  Even underground service does not protect from surges - including direct lightning strikes.

For example, a separate structure may require its own 'whole house' solution.  Generally a separation of more than 25 feet is a ball park number for a building that is not protected by 'whole house' protection in a main building.

Back to that isolation transformer - one that is already doing your 'primary' protection.  Same earthing requirements that make your 'secondary' protection layer effective also must be inspected in that 'primary' protection layer.  More reasons why so many previous paragraphs should have resulted in plenty of questions.  Even a transformer in an Equi-Tech cabinet is only as effective as its earth ground.

As my house is almost 100 years old, is there any way to test a ground? Or, is there any way to add a newer/more effective ground?
A utility demonstrates what must exist with good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions in Tech Tip 8 in
https://www.duke-energy.com/energy-education/power-quality/tech-tips

Every incoming wire must first share that single point earth ground.  A hardwire connection that is direct (ie TV cable, satellite dish) or that is made via a protector (telephone, AC electric).

I have yet to hear of a residential electrical contractor that checks for earth resistance.

No standard was defined to measure that resistance. A 25 ohm number is too subjective Rather than play games with local inspectors, electricians routinely earth two ground electrodes. Then nobody can argue about 10 ohms measured one way and 40 ohms measured some other hardware or method.

Soil conductivity (resistance) is relevant for code requirements - that only address human safety. Grounding for appliance safety is why Ufer grounding (to exceed code requirements) is popular. Earthing for protection is an art.

Earth ground for protection involves conductivity and equipotential. For example, a ’whole house’ solution was properly earthed. They still suffered damage. A vein of graphite existed behind the house. Best path to earthborne charges was incoming on AC mains, ignored a service entrance earth ground, passed through household appliances, then out the back of that house into that conductive graphite vein.

Solution surrounded that house with a 2 AWG bare copper ground wire. Then single point earth ground was entirely beneath that house. Best equipotential eliminated future damage. Then a best connection to distant earthborne charges was outside around the house; not through it.

Other considerations. Earth electrode must be over 8 feet deep. If any are loose, then some event (maybe lightning) created that looseness if not enough electrodes were earthed. Always learn from mistakes.  Damage happens because a human made a mistake.  

In one FL case, lightning kept striking an outside wall. So they installed lightning rods. Lightning still struck that wall. Lightning (like other destructive surges) found a best path to earth via plumbing that connected to deeper limestone. Lightning rods were only earthed in sand. Solution was a longer electrode to make contact with that deeper and more conductive limestone. Then lightning stopped striking a bathroom wall.

Protectors are simple science. A ’whole house’ protector must be at least 50,000 amps to survive even direct lightning strikes (ie 20,000 amps). Earth ground (not a protector) does the protection.

Inspect a ground hardwire from the breaker box. If it goes up over the foundation and down to an earthing electrode, then it meets code. (It has low resistance and high impedance.) Surge protection compromised. That hardwire has excessive impedance (ie greater than 10 feet long), has sharp bends, and is not separated from non-grounding wires. Effective protection exists when that hardwire goes through a foundation and down to earth. Then it is shorter. No sharp bends means significantly lower impedance (not resistance). Is routed with more separation from other wires. Then a ’whole house’ protector has better earthing. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Above is a ’secondary’ protection layer. Each layer is only defined by its earth ground - not by any protector. Also inspect your ’primary’ surge protection layer. Pictures (and not text) about half way down after the expression "more safety hazards" demonstrate what to inspect:
http://www.fpl-fraud.com/

Some examples demonstrate this ’art’ of protection. Equipotential and impedance apply. Protection is always about where hundreds of thousand of joules dissipate. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

NFPA is a human protection code; insufficient for transistor protection. Transistor protection both *meets* and *exceeds* those human safety requirements.

Human safety discusses resistance. Transistor safety also addresses impedance and equipotential. NFPA does not discuss the latter two. Because NFPA is only about human protection.

First you need to start with what is the intention of the National Electrical Code.

I did. Stated repeatedly in multiple posts. Appliances protection both *meets* and *exceeds* what is required by human protection codes such as NFPA.

IEEE defines how to exceed those codes. IEEE say why ’whole house’ protection is 99.5% to 99.9% effective. Plug-in protectors have no earth ground - maybe add another 0.2% protection. None of that contradicts what is good earthing for human protection and remains insufficient for appliance protection.

More quotes from various IEEE sources:
It is important to ensure that low-impedance grounding and bonding connections exist among the telephone and data equipment, the ac power system’s electrical safety-grounding system, and the building grounding electrode system. ..Failure to observe any part of this grounding requirement may result in hazardous potential being developed between the telephone (data) equipment and other grounded items that personnel may be near or might simultaneously contact.
Low impedance - not low resistance.

Martzloff’s 1994 IEEE paper says same about impedance because a protector (SPD) is only as effective as its earth ground:
An effective, low-impedance ground path is critical for the successful operation of an SPD. ... Therefore, an evaluation of the service entrance grounding system at the time of the SPD installation is very important.

An IEEE guide shows a protector, connected to a wall receptacle safety ground, earthing an 8000 volt surge destructively through a nearby TV. That protector was not connected low impedance to earth ground; was too close to and therefore damaged a nearby appliance. Again, protection defined by impedance - a short connection to earth. Protection not provided by a wall receptacle safety ground - that has low resistance and high impedance.

That same guide defines earthing that must exceed NFPA requirements:
To achieve optimum overvoltage protection, the connecting leads between the SPDs and the panel or protected equipment should be as short as possible and without sharp 90-degree bends.
90 degree bends and long wires (ie more than 10 feet) increase impedance (but not resistance). Therefore reduce appliance protection. NEC defines human protection; not appliance protection. Unfortunately electricians, who are taught code, are not taught concepts such as counterpoise, equipotential, and impedance. Concept necessary to upgrade earthing for surge protection.

Low impedance connection to single point earth ground is why the Cutler-Hammer and Leviton ’whole house’ protectors are so effective. With numbers (ie 50,000 amps) that define protection from direct lightning strikes. Because a protector is only as effective as its earth ground - including a low impedance connection.

Also critical is inspecting the ’primary’ surge protection layer - that is ignored by NFPA and NEC.

Do NEC codes protect property from *all* hazards - as you have only assumed? Of course not. Codes only protect property from hazards that also threaten human life - such as fire. Appliances can be completely destroyed by other anomalies. NEC says nothing about protecting from those other anomalies. Destroyed appliances that do not threaten human life (ie that do not created a house fire) are ignored by the NEC.

Rather than argue philosophical and broad spectrum concepts, instead learn relevant electrical concepts. OP’s question is clearly about protecting household appliances from surges. Electrical concepts (ignored by NFPA and NEC) such as impedance, counterpoise, equipotenial, and where hundreds of thousands of joules are absorbed - these concepts you also repeatedly ignore. These concepts define protection. Nothing in the NEC discusses these concepts. Because NEC is totally about human protection.

Most critical item for appliance protection is single point earth ground. Earthing that must both **meet** and must **exceed** code requirements. Even measuring earth resistance (to meet human safety requirements) is insufficient.

Protection is always - as in always - about where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed. A protector is only as effective as its low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to and quality of earth ground. NEC does not discuss any of this: what is essential to protect all household appliances.

Better is to answer the OP’s question by learning well proven concept that you never heard before. Better is to ask questions about how to make earthing exceed what code requires - rather than argue the irrelevant. Defined is how protection was done successfully well over 100 years ago. Better earthing for appliance protection is an ’art’ - that you apparently refuse to learn because the NEC does not discuss it.

Again you ramble on about things completely irrelevant to the OP's questions. Refuse to learn how protection really works.  Apparently foolishly assume everything about electricity is defined by the NEC.  And repeatedly make adversarial denials with subjective (also called junk science) reasoning.

OP asked about best protection for household appliances.  Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  A surge that does not enter a building does not hunt for earth destructively via appliances.  One item always found and essential for protection is single point earth ground.  With a low impedance (not low resistance) connection to earth.  Requirements that exceed what is defined by code - that only defines human protection.

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Always. Another number provided by people who did this stuff.  OP's 'whole house' protector is only as effective as its earth ground.  Earth grounds that only comply with NEC may even compromise that protection.

Most of what jea48 posts is irrelevant to the OP's requests.  Made obvious by subjective claims; without numbers.  Made obvious by no grasp of counterpoise, equipotential, impedance, joules and other relevant concepts.  And no appreciation of this prime concept: A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.  Low impedance earthing makes the OP's 'whole house' protector effective.