@pegasus
I agree, there is likely to be a small reduction in air pressure entering the capillaries due deltaP across the wool and filter paper. Easily sorted by increasing the input pressure slightly. The arm can be operated with and without the wool/paper to test its efficacy.
Much has been written in this thread about the need for a stable air supply. It seems that the ET is very sensitive to any perturbations in the air stream. This design is simply taking this trait and seeking to ameliorate it further. Look inside the manifold at the small hole which connects the air supply to the manifold cavity. Air entering thru this hole jets across the small gap and hits the sleeve then circulates around the boundary between the manifold ID and the sleeve OD. This design change is an effort to deliver smooth air to all of the capillaries. It may not be of benefit, but I intend to find out.
Cheers
|
Bruce's second run, long I-Beam delivered yesterday. Much better fit for the weight clamp. Sounding good.
Cheers
|
Gentlemen,
I recently picked up a Van den Hul MC One Special. Specs say static compliance is 28 micron/mN. I don't have a clue what this means in terms of high, low or medium compliance. Can some of you with a better engineering/physics background than I tell me which of Bruce's arm wands would be best suited to this cartridge.
Thanks,
Harry |
I don't know your degree, so I don't tell you mine... ;-)Except that you will find the formulas if you feel the need.It's a rather elevated compliance in these days, not Shure-high but probably, relating to ct517 experiences, it better fits a ET 2 and not a ET 2.5, as the mass of the ET 2 is lower. However, I think it's mainly a question of the arm wand, ie. using the original alu wand.
With this cartridge it's more about experimenting with vertical inertia, starting at the lower side, starting with more counterweights close to the bearing.
You always can increase vertical inertia by trying less counterweights in the middle and then a low count at the outer end.
I suspect that still the long i-beam with counterweights out and starting with a single spring might be best, as the high compliance / low resonance frequency of the cartridge might be better controlled by an I-beam that is set to the lowest most resonance. |
Thanks Pegasus,
I started college (1961) majoring in engineering. At the end of my sophomore year intermediate calculus drove me to change major to political science.
I have an ET 2 that has not been upgraded to the high pressure manifold but I'm am running it with a pump that gives me @ 8 psi. I've been running the VDH with an extra magnesium arm I picked up. I'll try the original al arm. Thanks for the info.
Harry |
@vpi
I have found with the original aluminium arm that removing the internal foam and heat shrink improved transparency. I did this ins stages to verify each step. Ypou might want to try it.
I also opened up the cartridge end of the arm tube removed the spongy teflon insert and replaced it with a piece of carbon fibre - fixed with araldite and compression.This is relatively easy to do and again provided a good improvement.
Fyi years ago I had a Van den jul MC One -preferred it to the more expensive Grasshopper at the time. Verynice cartridge. It was more balanced and not as lean as some of the early Grasshoppers. |
@pegasus
Swaped arms from mag to aluminum. Difference is subtle but audible Soundstage is deeper and cymbals are more extended with little or no grit. The VDH is rather more up front than the Lyras I'm used to and the aluminum arm seems to push it back just a little.
@dover
Ive had noting but Lyra for years ( Clavis, now Delos). In comparison the VDH is not as extended or as transparent, however, the VDH has a richer (in a good way) midrange and even without the extension it seems to have plenty of detail. Somehow I think it is just more musical. If I were going to show off my system I'd use the Delos. If I were going to listen to music I think I'd go with the VDH. It is superb on acoustic guitar.
|
Excellent post VPI. Keep spinnin' :)
Dave |
Last time I did an extended cartridge optimization session for a customer (SME arm), we extensively tweaked the tracking force and bias (.. ;-) by ear.
Start at the lower end of the tracking force, and prepare small balls of Blue-Tak at 0.1 gram, measuring them with a precision scale 0f 0.01 gram resolution.
By adding them (side by side and not pushing them flat) you’ll find a spot where the sound starts to feel slightly compressed, slower and too creamy (= too high tracking force / too low VTA), instead of dynamic, fast and a bit dry.
Go back to one mini-blob less and do the same with mini-blobs of ca. 0.01 gram.
It’s surprising how audible this is. It’s worthwile to start with finding the best VTA, do the weight optimization, go back to VTA and do the weight thing again. The weight adjustment and VTA interrelate *somewhat*, but they are not the same.
*Check the lateral balance=calm free floating in the middle, when adjusting VTA with the ET adjustment!*
Otherwise you introduce a major variable, while tuning a subtle, important factor.
It’s not a real hassle. But it’s ear opening.
|
vpi, the VDH MC1 was my first "serious" cartridge purchased more years ago than seems possible. It came back to me upgraded to "Special" status (free of charge) after its third (!) trip back to the Nederlands for retipping. Always liked that cartridge and still do and I agree with your description of its sound relative to Lyra’s. What you describe as "upfront" I hear as simply the fact that it produces individual images which are larger than what I experienced with the two Lyras that I have had and in a generally smaller soundstage. Loved its realistically full midrange tonal balance.
I have done a lot of back and forth with my aluminum and magnesium wands and have come to the conclusion that, theoretical or technical "best" considerations aside, which wand is best is very system and taste dependent. I much preferred the magnesium wand with that cartridge as I found that the aluminum wand tended to take the sound still more in the direction of larger individual images in a smaller soundstage than the magnesium which offered better defined and slightly smaller individual images in a broader soundstage. The magnesium also tended to give a better tonal balance. The aluminum, to my ears, had an overall darker midrange but with more prominent upper frequencies and a slight sense of discontinuity between the two. Again... in my system. Just some possible food for thought. Btw, not as precarious as it may seem if one is careful, but try removing the shell off of the cartridge. Easy to do and the improvement in sound is not subtle. Regards.
|
Apologies to the Dutch for misspelling The Netherlands 😔 |
No worries frogman. I have known a few Dutch and I think they do spell it "Nederlands". ;)
Dave
|
@frogman
Pretty remarkable we are hearing the same subtle differences between arm wands with the VDH. Guess my 73 year old ears aren't as bad as I thought. The focus of individual instruments in space (particularly piano) don't seem quite as sharp with aluminum but I was able to sharpen it with VTA. My setup requires me to listen rather near field and the aluminum wand does push things a little further back in the stage.
I wondered if the VDH case was removable but prior experience prevents me from being that brave. If you recall, removing the case was a tweak many performed on the Lyra Clavis with the warning that removal dangerously exposed the cantilever. I removed my Clavis case and enjoyed the improvement for about a year before snagging a shirt sleeve in the cantilever while dusting the table and sheering it off. Hence, my cowardice.
@pegasus
I have been setting up with small changes to VTF and VTA being conscious of the interrelation. I haven't been quite a meticulous as your tiny blue ball method :) but using very small increments. It certainly improves the setup. I'm finding that, so far, in my setup, the VDH seems to like the high end of recommended VTF range and, like the Delos, almost level VTA.
Thanks to all for tips and observations!
Harry |
@frogman
I'm back on the mag arm with the VDH. My observations are again the same as yours. Finer focus of instruments in space. You described this as smaller in a wider space but I think we are talking about the same thing. I have lightened VTF on the mag wand and am getting more transparency with a more delicate sound. Still not a Lyra in this department but tonality is great on the VDH.
Cheers,
Harry |
Re: removing the body of your VdH, Harry, I tried it on my MC Two and it is no more. No doubt my doing, yet I have never destroyed any audio component before or since in some 30 years with hi-end audio. I recommend that you proceed (or not!) with great consideration and care.
Dave |
@dlcockrum
Not! After my Clavis experience I'm a devout coward😱
Harry |
|
Looks like we're both Cluckers at this point!
Experience is a strong influencer, especially catastrophic experience.
Dave |
Frogman,
A dagger through my heart! 😢
|
Long I-Beam update.
My new Van den Hul cartridge seems about broken in now. At least I'm not hearing significant changes from session to session. Fine tuning setup was nearly impossible while it was breaking in. I'm using the mag arm wand and the weights were about 1/2 inch from the end of the plank. At this point I started fine tuning and adjusting my diy weights so I could get the weight clamp nearly to the end of the plank. This resulted once again in increased focus and bass definition. I continue to be amazed at how small changes in the weight position result in very significant sonic changes.
Harry
|
Fisrt time post here,
I just happened to stumble into a SOTA Star Sapphire with a ET-2 Tonearm at a yard sale of all places. The seller was not the original owner and didn't know anything about it. I'm sure this table has been sitting unused for quite some time.
I've spent some time getting the table sorted out and now I'm looking for some advise on a ET-2 tonearm. I have leveled the platter and cleaned the spindle. With the needle on a level sheet of glass, The arm tube doesn't glide back and forth as I would expect it to from reading the manual. I think the air bearing pump is working but I don't have a gauge. Looks like it only requires 2.5 PSI and I can feel air pressure out of the filter. My guess is that the pump in not the issue. The manual recommends cleaning the manifold if cleaning the spindle doesn't fix the travel issue.
Should I go out and get a gauge and confirm the PSI before I pull out the spindle and clean the manifold or anything else I might be missing or should do first? If yes I should go ahead and clean the manifold, Do I remove the joint on the front of the spindle? Is the joint
indexed to the spindle or just needs to be 90 degrees from the rear
counterweight clamp? Is there suppose to be any
horizontal play on the counterweight I-beam, mine has some?
-Brad
|
Hi Brad,
Measure the pump’s PSI output and remove/clean the manifold and the spindle. Unplug the connector cap at the front end of the spindle/joint. Only remove the joint at the front of the spindle (loosen the allen screw first) and take care not to pull the wiring plug inserted into the front end of the spindle out with the joint. Be very careful with the wiring while removing and re-installing the spindle. Joint is not indexed and the armwand should be parallel with the I-beam when properly reassembled. The I-beam will have lateral movement per its design.
Dave
|
Dave,
Thanks, I'll look in to buying a gauge and try cleaning the manifold.
-Brad
|
Brad, I assume you know that you need to remove the manifold from the housing in order to thoroughly clean it. Gentle but firm thumb pressure on one end of the manifold while securely holding the housing should break it loose. Don’t strike or pry the end of the manifold with anything, just keeping working with it until it starts to budge. Check back with issues/questions and once you are done with this as there are a few things that are very critical to proper setup that are not completely detailed in the manual. There are several here that are experts and we will help. You can view my setup on my Virtual System page for reference. Click on "Toggle details" tab for explanation. https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/3778Dave |
Dave,
I tried just using a toothbush and IPA to clean the manifold as per the manual instructions and it still is not working. So that was going to be the next step. I need to find pipe cleaners to clean out all the holes.
-Brad
|
|
Hey Brad,
Also check for obstructions in the airline and nipple feeding the body of the manifold housing.
Dave |
Hey Brad,
Also check for obstructions in the airline and nipple feeding the body of the manifold housing.
Dave Dave, I made a little more progress, it turned out to be an issue with the pump. After taking the pump apart I found one of the two magnets had come loose from the arm and it was only doing half duty. I got the pump fixed and I now have good pressure! -Brad |
That’s great Brad! When you get it re-assembled, make sure the stylus is tracking directly straight down the imaginary centerline aligned with the platter’s bearing spindle (not to the left or right of the centerline or even slightly diagonal) and move the weights out on the I-beam as far as possible even if you have to remove some weight to hit your tracking force (VTF) target. Do not put to much torque on the screws that tighten the arm base to the armboard as this can warp the base.
It is good to get the platter completely level but the only real way to level the arm is to use a test or other LP with blank sections where the second or third track would be and at the fifth track (the two points where you would measure the cartridge alignment with a pivoting arm) and try to get it leveled to where the stylus does not try to wander toward the center of the LP or away toward the edge at these two positions. When you get it close, you will find that even the slight tension of the wiring coming out of the end of the arm will create enough force to influence the arm's movement. Try to minimize that. It takes some doing, but will pay big dividends in sound quality.
Dave
|
Dave,
Thanks for the tips! Using the supplied alignment guide, I feel like I have it set pretty good. I will not be able to do any critical setup or listening till I get the table out of my shop. The SOTA table is to big to fit on my audio rack, luckily the SOTA came with a large heavy duty rack, but it needs some work.
I think I need to adjust the arm somehow. The larger end of the cuing tube is slightly in the way of letting the arm come down into the lead-in, it lands in the start of the first track, not in the lead-in.
-Brad
|
Consider yourself lucky to have that alignment gauge, Brad. I never had one and had to get creative to set the trajectory.
Re: the queuing problem, did you get the joint pushed back on the spindle far enough?
Dave |
Hey Brad,
Also check for obstructions in the airline and nipple feeding the body of the manifold housing.
Dave It’s always preferable to eliminate obstacles between nipples and the mani folds of our bodies... Fumbling around (...) with air bearing arms, also of other makes makes things appear simpler than they seem: It’s simply a question of turning the arm around the mounting hole to get the exact desired travel, as defined by the lift bar. It may look slightly twisted though, but that’s the correct way. (You might correct a bit with pulling the end travel "hood" pushed over the bar... a bit) But basically the travel is set by turning the arm around the single mounting screw and finding the correct position. Tangentiality then is set by adjusting the length of the arm, ie. (non) "overhang". Actually all is very simple. What’s less obvious is that it is important to have c) the surface of recordings in average level, b) the platter and platter bearing level, (maybe with a smidgen of defined tilt toward the motor, both for optimized friction or dynamic behaviour with belt drives) and a) the arm level. With highly increasing importance: It’s a) where the setup sensitivity of passive tangential arms differs widely from pivoting arms. The whole mass of the arm - dynamic and static - pulls sideways with the slightest off-level. A normal pivoting arm with tilted setup compensates gravity "error" almost completely (with only the tracking force / weight remaining). With dynamically balanced arms it cancels to 100%. Fortunately the air bearing arm itself is maybe the best measuring device on earth for off-levelness. |
Dave,
That's most likely the issue, I'll work on it!
|
It is my understanding that for proper setup if one imagines (or when using the set-up jig) a straight line from the front edge of the turntable to the back edge and which goes directly through the platter’s spindle, the ET2’s tonearm tube should "intersect" that line at precisely 90 degrees. Assuming that the mounting base was aligned correctly, if one were to "turn(ing) the arm around the mounting hole" it seems to me that the desired geometry would be altered. The problem with the stylus landing inside of the lead-in groove can most easily be solved by moving the cap at the front end of the cuing eccentric ("cuing tube") towards the front so as to give the spindle extra travel distance toward the front before being stopped by the cap as intended. There is a fair amount of adjustability front to back available for this.
|
frogman,
Completely agree with your point about rotating the tonearm assembly.
Since Brad’s table and arm was already setup when he bought it and knowing that he had removed the joint as part of his cleaning process, I thought it prudent to recommend checking his work there first vs altering the queuing eccentric adjustment.
Dave
|
You are correct; definitely prudent to check that and may indeed be the issue. On that note, the "rim" of the bearing tube should be flush or very close to flush with the front side of the joint. If the bearing tube extends out beyond the side of the joint it would probably cause the problem that xbart is having. Would you agree? |
Hi frogman, yes it seems so. But think about a "normal" mount on a rectangular base:
The arm is mounted "precisely" and travels exactly parallel to two sides of the plinth. Correct tracking then runs on a line exactly parallel to the sides, crossing exactly the platter bearing. This is achieved by the correct "overhang".
Assuming now the arm is slightly twisted (as seen from above) and runs at an angle to the sides. The tracking line then will be twisted the same, but if it shifted by correcting the "overhang" to cross the bearing again, it tracks as correct as before,
Twisted clockwise the overhang will be a bit less, twisted anti-clockwise it is a bit more than with "correct" parallel mounting.
|
Yes frogman, it should be close to flush but I might cheat it a wee bit (since there is allowance on the other end of the spindle tube) to correct Brad’s problem rather than alter the queuing eccentric setting unless it is far off. I seem to recall messing with the queuing eccentric once and wishing I hadn’t.
I have not forgotten where I learned a great deal about the ET Two... ;)
Dave |
Dave,
That was indeed the problem, that issue looks solved.
Thanks, you have been more than helpful and really appreciate it!
It looks like you can't post photos, only add a link?
-Brad
|
Great Brad! Let us know how that baby sounds!
In order to post pics, you have to either transfer them to your favorite online pic depository and then link it to a post using the "Insert URL" tab above the post or simply create a Virtual System page here on Agon and upload your pics. The latter is my recommendation and very easy once you get the hang of it.
Dave
|
Hi Guys
Been enjoying July Weather in Sept/Oct; which is ok since we never got July weather in July here this year. :^(
So still in outdoor mode floating on the water (not the air) and maybe a track session again one day if the Gestapo ever hands back the keys to me again :^(
Something about not being able to collect on Life insurance ?
Anyway - some interesting talk on achieving alignment. Got me re-juved reading.
Noted the suggestions for moving the ends of the spindle (Joint - aka as Gooseneck) and/or the end cap to get the stylus to drop into the lead in groove.
The larger newer 2.5 is built tighter and the ends of the spindle have sleeves which make the gooseneck and end cap flush with the spindle. There is only one way to mount it - tight. So if the hole that was drilled to mount the tonearm was less than perfect and you are faced with an armtube that doesn't come in to the lead in groove - the Cueing Eccentric adjustment would be probably the only way unless you are going to drill another mounting hole.
btw - Bruce used to provide the service of upgrading your 2.0 to a 2.5. You send him your 2.0 spindle and manifold and he would return a bored out 2.5 version at reasonable cost. He may still do this.
Re: Alignment
If you are using a full plinth with no armboard, and it is going to need one hole drilled to add the tonearm; the task at hand can get more than a little daunting. Especially if you are dealing with an expensive handcrafted plinth.
After mounting the ET 2.0 , 2.5 maybe 60-70 times on 5 or 6 tables...During a Serious bout of Audiophilia Nervosa Mode years ago ....... 8^(.....I can say let's not over complicate this. We are not after all trying to mount a pivot arm.
All you need is a straight line from the middle of the spindle to the end of the platter (ANYWHERE ON THE PLATTER) This straight line should track the line (path) your stylus will take. With the air pump on make adjustment making sure your stylus will land - without it actually touching - the line on the jig. This is easiest done when your ET 2.0 - 2.5 is mounted on a standalone or pivoting pillar/pod.
Past VPI HW19 MKIV and TNT tables with the ET2 revealed to me that the holes drilled by VPI were less than perfect. Maybe it was hit and miss with my examples ? Test your tables. Does your stylus when placed on the jig near the beginning still remain on that straight line at the end of the road ?
********************************************
Xbart - Brad - welcome to the thread.
Amazing what can be found at a US of A Garage Sale ...... EH
Real American Pickers.
Have you messed with the horizontal VTA Pillar bolts yet ?
It is my opinion that these should have come from Bruce' factory with plugs in place preventing adjustment....AND....a special section in the manual dedicated to them with the caption "for experienced users only"
I am pretty sure everyone here has used those VTA Pillar bolts in the beginning of learning setup to make the stylus "Walk The Line" - thereby messing up the ET2 VTA alignment. The only manual mention I recall is adjusting them for the tension felt in the VTA lever. This is an over sight IMO as Audiophiles will always tinker and can't leave well enough alone.
The mention of plugs for the VTA pillar post bolts...... reminds me of an incident this past summer involving a friends boat with a Volvo Penta i/o engine, with Holley carb. The friend had a rough running engine on this boat he bought. When we investigated we noticed someone had taken the plugs out the carbs' two metering bolts on each side, and tried to adjust them. We suspected something got messed up in their settings.
Long story short - Holleys are way too sensitive to do adjustment of the metering bolts by ear and watching the tachometer. To do it properly required the use of a Vacuum Gauge, sort of like the air pressure gauge used by the ET2. The vacuum gauge showed that the setting were way off.
Hope this post finds everyone well. Soon it will be cold and activities will commence indoors including running. My knees are taking a beating with age. I find now to run without pain I need to be running on an uphill incline so that my knees are loaded. This means treadmill. :^(
Hi Harry - read your note about v2 of the Long I Beam. Need to reach out to Bruce.
Cheers Chris
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving to everyone.
|
Hi Chris,
Welcome home! It is nice to hear from you again.
Dave |
Welcome back, Chris. When you get snowbound you gotta get Bruce's second run long "plank".
Frogman,
Enjoyed my short sojourn with the the VDH MC-1 Special but missed the Lyra delicacy and extension I've lived with for so many years. I did, however, decide to give VDH one more try and acquired a Black Beauty SPX. I'm absolutely blown away by this cartridge. Great midrange and bass of the VDH but extension and air that gives my Lyra Delos a run for its money. I'm using the aluminum arm wand Bruce recommended for this high compliance cartridge.
|
Xbart - Brad - welcome to the thread.
Amazing what can be found at a US of A Garage Sale ...... EH
Real American Pickers.
Have you messed with the horizontal VTA Pillar bolts yet ?
It
is my opinion that these should have come from Bruce' factory with
plugs in place preventing adjustment....AND....a special section in the
manual dedicated to them with the caption "for experienced users only"
Chris, I'm been pretty much a vintage audio guy, mostly out of necessity (lack of funds) and garage sales are my main source for gear and albums. Most of the mods suggested here are likely not in my budget. I'm sure getting this rig set up right will be a great setup, even without the mods discussed here. To answer your question, no I haven't messed with the pillar bots. I have had the turntable up and running for a week now. As it is now, it is a major improvement over my previous table. I'm curious to hear how It will sound when it is set up properly. -Brad |
Brad -You are taking imo ...the right approach with this taking the setup in steps. Maybe its the project manager in me talking, but I think there is just too much to take in here (the way Bruce thinks) Steps are needed in the learning. There is also imo too much to un-learn if someone is coming from many years with a pivot arm. I honestly feel that someone with no pivot tonearm experience might have a better shot with this tonearm. The I Beam system with leaf spring and weights brings a fourth dimension that we have discussed here. Never seen a professional view discussed in a paper or online anywhere that demonstrated a good understanding of it outside of the manual. Except here ...... but we are all just a bunch of music lovers. 8^) The people (Audiophiles) I know from say 15 years ago - a few people who tried the ET2 were coming from years with a pivot arm and just could not seem to get around the idea of removing weight on the I beam and sliding the weight further back to get VTF; since on a pivot arm one normally just slides the back weight forward for more VTF and backward to get less VTF. Here you remove/add weights to get to the highest number on the I Beam- that's the objective. It's a different game. If one wants to set it up as designed. You can put on heavier or lighter cartridge bolts to achieve this as well. One other person I remember and this is definitely going back 15 years; had a 6 figure system and was selling the VPI MKIV with the ET2 on it that he had just bought recently. He also owned Dunlavy towers, an Allnic preamp, Nakamichi TT that adjusted for the record, and the Dynavector tonearm. This ET2/VPI setup he was selling became my first ET2. He could not figure out why it wouldn't work past the first track on an LP. The problem ended up being the pump - low on PSI. I ended up replacing it with the Medo with a computer fan next to it to cool it. The funny thing is I wrote at the time to A Salvatore about this and he ended up putting my verbage in his blog. Look forward to hearing about your progress. ******************************************** Hi Harry - "When you get snowbound you gotta get Bruce's second run long "plank". It is not possible Harry, to snow bound a true Canadian. The temperature however is another thing on its own. My bones alert me 24 hours prior to cold coming. The good thing with cold and this crazy hobby - my room heating system (Music Reference Tubes and or a Krell Class A Amp) produces dry dry air. Just what the ET2 likes. Cheers Chris |
Harry
A version 2 Long I Beam is now on its way north of the 49th parallel.
thanks for letting me know. Chris |
|
21 bids , 11 bidders !
Coming down to the wire.
Will there be a dark horse bidder ? .
ooooooh.....It's started raining here and I am collecting leaves.
Don't want to do this anymore :^(
What fun ebay bidding can be when it's not you.... yourself.... bidding - 8^0
anyone here involved ? heh heh heh
I know what a base ET 2.0 original tonearm is worth - let's see what happens.
|
**** It’s started raining here and I am collecting leaves.
Don’t want to do this anymore :^( ****
Mulch, mulch, mulch, Chris! Good for the lawn, too. Used to collect a couple of acres' worth of leaves off of our lawn at our upstate property. The locals used to think (and would tell me) that I was out of my mind. Mulching kit for my Husqvarna tractor to the rescue. OMG, what was I thinking!
vpi, congrats on your new VDH. Love VDH cartridges. |
Frogman - yes, the collect phase is a kind of mechanical collection from the mower bag to curbside paper leaf bag, for town collection and composting.
The birch and maple leaves get mulched into my soil. No problem and feels good to be dropping them into it. But the late fallers....the Oak leaves ......take all winter to fall and are a real problem as they don’t seem to break down. A PITA. Mulching them is like trying to mulch Styrofoam.
*******************
So when that auction I linked was in play - I got this email from someone asking about it and whether he should consider it. He was not a current or past owner of the ET2 tonearm. I told this person.
"Whether you should get the ET2 depends on your personality type. Let me use an analogy to explain.
Think back to the days when we used to drive our automobiles before GPS and Google Maps. So you are out on the road in an unknown area - a little lost - what do you do ?
Personality type A
would - open the glove box and pull out a hardcopy map; or stop and ask for directions.
Personality type B -
would - just prod onward blindly hoping they will reach their destination.
Type B should not own this tonearm IMO. "
8^0
|
