Elrod EPS-3 sign. VS NBS statement MK.3 ?

We tried the two for quite a while back and forth. Out of three of us we each heard different things. In the final conclusion I think the two are so close it's hard to find a absolute difference. The Elrod is smooth but the cord we worked with 50 hours(still needed some more burn in?) had less bass definition and slam.

Jadem6, I assume the audition you refer to was the one with my brother and myself. At this audition we were using the EPS-2S, the cord David Elrod designed for digital and low current devices. Since we were, in fact, performing the test on your SACD player our impressions are relevant however. I agree that the differences were minimal. My thoughts were that the Elrod was slightly more transparent and slightly less constricted. All three thought the NBS bettered the Elrod in the low frequencies. The Elrod bass performance has improved with further break-in. The EPS-2S should be mostly broken in now, I will come by again soon. I have an EPS-3S on the way and will, of course, bring that along too. The EPS-3 Series cords are designed for use with electronics with higher current demands. FWIW, I preferred the EPS-2S over the NBS for the qualities I have stated. I am accustomed to trading some bass performance for the qualities my tastes place a greater premium on. Differences were indeed minimal though, as previously noted. Round 2 should be interesting.

Wellfed, whatever happened to Round 2 ? I anxiously wait.

Sorry, Sherod. It hasn't happened yet. Hopefully in the next month or two, Lord willing. We live about 250 miles from each other. Actually, I think for me to offer a whole lot of insight I would need to hear the Statement(s) in my own system. JD will be the guy to talk to after we get together. I will ask him to post his thoughts here. They are both great cords. BTW, the EPS-3S was fabulous on my preamp. I am getting profoundly excellent performance from my digital with the EPS-2S on my digital source and the EPS-3S on my preamp. So much so that I am looking to upgrade my digital source, with the hope of approaching (or even exceeding???) the performance of my vinyl setup (it could happen). I am really, really impressed with the Elrod cords in my system. Likewise, the NBS Statement is pretty impressive. If you can wait, I would expect to have made the comparison by March 1 or thereabout. The Elrod has improved over time, since I thought the Elrod was slightly better at that time, I would guess that the fully broken-in cable will get my vote, but we will see. Based on Round 1, and if you can buy two NBS for one Elrod, I think the NBS is definitely the prudent way to go. I really do expect the margin to be wider between the two in the next comparison however. I will do my best to get you some answers ASAP.

For what it's worth - from my experience - 50 hours was *no where near* enough time for break-in. I'm sure some people will think I'm nuts, but the signature cords take a good five weeks of constant break-in; preferably on something which draws more current than the component(s) they will be used on; and preferably on something "inductive", like a refrigerator. (FWIW, I use lights and a refrigerator) Believe me: the last part of the break-in seems to happen all at once, i.e. not in a gradual way.

Jfz I agree with the long break-ins on power cords from my experience, but have only done them with running them 24/7 on my system. I have seen improvements after 1,000 hours.
What is the easiest way to hook up a PC to a refrigerator and or a light bulb ? Is there any benefit from breaking the cord in on both as opposed to just one or the other ? Is there benefit to be had after 1,000 hours of system running time to put a power cord on a refrigerator and or light bulb ?
Thanks

P.S. to Cello: I'm not absolutely sure of the answer to your question about using the light/refrigerator thing after 1,000 hours of use in your system. All the advice I've gotten - and the experience I've had - is this, however: it helps to use more draw for break-in the cord will "see" when used in the system; and, at the very least, doing this will speed up break-in. Hope some of my comments help.

Cello - I'm sorry. Somehow my "p.s." worked, but not my original message. You'll need to use some kind of outlet box to plug a light and your refrigerator into. The problem is finding one that will accept the IEC end of your power cord. Versa Labs made one that was a kind of conditioner as well. That's what I use. If you can't find something at hardware store, I'd suggest making one - or asking someone to make you one. Re the benefit of both a light and a refrigerator: the light provides a constant source of current, the refrigerator cycles on and off (which I'm told by "those in the know" helps break-in). I don't know why. I just follow "orders" ;-) Good luck.

Jfz - Thanks for your detailed response. All of my cords now have over 1,500 hours on them, but never the less, I will see about organizing a box to try get some additional time on my refrigerator and let you know if I can hear a difference. Thanks

Both these cables are excellent. I prefer GE refrigerators for break in, but I figured why put all this money into cables and sent Subaruguru $200. and did all my PCs and spent the leftover $2K on CDs and LPs.