Regarding solid wire for power cables, aren't we afraid of possible failure? It is verboten by many country regulations
Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling
I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!
Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.
That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )
After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…
I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.
You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…
http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables
Enjoy,
Wig
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@abolive - generally speaking - you are correct - i.e. for power cables. Those regulations are primarily to protect the consumer and guard against cable/component failure Any cable that connects a component to the mains for general sale has to conform to a set of guidelines that pertain to flexibility, insulations and current carrying capability, etc... This is because the regulators do not know what use/abuse that cables will be subject too.
The "deterrent" seems to be UL or CSA or BSA Certification, which is normally required by insurance companies. However - the power cable on that lamp from china sitting on oyur bedside tables is probably not UL certified If you look at my website you will see warnonogs pertaiing to building the Helix cables. Audio cables are not "generally" subject ot a lot of flexing. and the higher the quality of copper used will allow the capability to be flexed more often. If you build the cable yourself you should have a pretty good idea of the kind of abuse it can take, so it is up to YOU to make sure it will perofrm well. Solid wire can take a lot of bending and straightening before it fails, so it should be OK for audiophile use Regards
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@williewonka thank you for your reply, I feel reassured 😊 |
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@abolive - just to assure you further - If you make a cable using good solid copper wire, the cable will adopt a "natural. curve" once attached to components. You can of course use a tighter curve if space is a premium, but even a really tight bend in the cable should not approach the right angled "L" shape reqquired to fracture the wire when used under "Normal Use" To get copper wire to fracture, I had to use a pair of pliers and force an "L" shape in the wire, and then wigggle it back and forth several times But to be on the safe side, just allow the cable to show you it's natural curve and use that Regards - Steve |
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