Does the heat an amp puts out have any effect on the sound quality ?


Does  how hot an amp runs have any effect on sound quality ?
Or is this only a concern for the longevity of the amp? I have an old Harmon Kardon
amp that supposedly puts out 60 watts at 8 ohms and has 30 amps of current.
when purchasing I was comparing it to  an onkyo with 120 watts. They were driving
a pair of jbL monitors. It flat out smoked the onk. Probably twice the volume.
I decided On a minor upgrade down the road to a Yamaha as-500 at 85 watts.
Years later I got tired of the brightness of the Yamaha. Decided to hook up the Harmon
kardon just for kicks. Instantly the mains came back to life. Much cleaner an  better bass  maybe
a little more volume. Its almost like harmon Kardon put a wrong part in this amp. Making it sound much better than it should. My only concern is how hot it runs. It doesn't seem to effect anything even
at long listening periods. Should I be concerned at how hot it runs. It has given me no problems.
Any one have any opinions ?
128x128jcb1957

Showing 3 responses by bombaywalla

Does how hot an amp runs have any effect on sound quality ?
Or is this only a concern for the longevity of the amp? I have an old Harmon Kardon
amp that supposedly puts out 60 watts at 8 ohms and has 30 amps of current.
when purchasing I was comparing it to an onkyo with 120 watts. They were driving
a pair of jbL monitors. It flat out smoked the onk. Probably twice the volume.
I decided On a minor upgrade down the road to a Yamaha as-500 at 85 watts.
Years later I got tired of the brightness of the Yamaha. Decided to hook up the Harmon
kardon just for kicks. Instantly the mains came back to life. Much cleaner an  better bass  maybe
a little more volume. Its almost like harmon Kardon put a wrong part in this amp. Making it sound much better than it should. My only concern is how hot it runs. It doesn't seem to effect anything even
at long listening periods. Should I be concerned at how hot it runs. It has given me no problems.
Any one have any opinions ?
jcb1957
The 60W/ch HK has a max current limit of 30A that it will output under extreme conditions such a huge transient in the music or if you (in error) short the amp output terminals. It's a hint on how robust the power supply is. Just to be clear it is not outputting 30A of current during normal music playback. I got the feeling that you were equating the 30A of current to how hot the HK amp got. That 30A current limit's got nothing to do w/ how hot the amp is running during routine playback. that is dependent on how the designer biased the output stage transistors (I'm assuming this is a solid-state HK like the PM655 since you did not say it was a HK Citation II) & whether or not the designer intended it to operate in class-A for all 60W or for part of the 60W (& then slide into class-AB mode).

Check the manual (if you have one) how hot this amp is supposed to run. Maybe it's designed to run hot all the time? For eg, certain older Threshold amps (from Pass Labs) were designed to be full class-A & their heat-sinks needed to measure +54C to indicate proper operation. My class-A amp heat sink also measures +54C after it has warmed up. So, running hot could be normal for your HK amp....

In general, if the amp is designed to dissipate the heat it generates (by having adequate heat sink size & vents on the top, side & bottom) then it should have a long life (assuming that the designer knew what he/she was doing & is operating the output transistors in their safe-operating-area (SOA)). Also associated with this is what rlawry wrote - the surrounding components & the PCB should also be made such that they can withstand the heat generated by the output transistors otherwise components other than the output transistors will fail. One such component susceptible to failure is electrolytic capacitors - heat is the worst enemy of electrolytic caps. If you see caps with bulging tops, get them replaced ASAP. Make sure that you replace them with the same temperature spec as the original. For eg. if you had a 4700uF, +85C electrolytic, make sure the new one is also +85C or higher (which will cost more $$).
If the amp is not designed to dissipate the heat it generates, it will shorten the life of the output transistors & as they gradually fail, you will lose output power & will experience increased distortion.
I dont know how old your HK is but one thing to do is check the electrolytic caps for bulges & check the thermal paste under the output transistors. This paste looks white & over the years of heating & cooling the paste becomes chalky & if touched flakes off. If this is the case, it's become dry & probably is not doing a good job of connecting the output transistor case flush to the heatsink. This in turn means that the output transistor is not dissipating its heat into the heat sink efficiently & is getting more-than-necessarily hot. If you are handly you can disassemble the power amp, remove the power transistors & reapply the thermal paste & reassemble the amp. Or, have a technician do it for you. I dont know if you have spare output transistors as back-up should they ever fail but if you dont & this amp has not been serviced in a while this might be a good thing to check because if you fry an output transistor you might be done for good unless you can find the exact replacement. iow, spending $$ on maintenance could save your amp in the long run esp. since you seem to like it quite a bit....  
well, for the sake of discussion then......

I've a vintage Yamaha CA-2010 integrated which has a switch on the front to toggle between Class-A & "Normal" (which is Yamaha speak for class-AB). in class-A it is also a 30W/ch into 8 ohms just like donjr's Accuphase E-600. in my particular case, the amp's heatsinks (in the middle of the amp) become really hot. In the manual i read that the quiescent bias for the output stage is stepped up to 300mA in class-A while it is just 25mA in class-AB. The amp has no forced cooling & it is vented on the top + bottom + back. I suppose that Yamaha intended to operate with this sort of heat dissipation....
Could it be possible that the Yamaha's heatsinks are much smaller than the E-600's hence the higher heat??
The dimensions of the amp are quite similar to the E-600 & it's just 8-9 lbs lighter.  
there is no doubt in my mind that the E-600 is a better designed integrated & it is also accordingly priced. These 2 amps come from a different eras of audio - 2009 for the E-600 & 1977 for the Yamaha.
yes i did see that the specs of the CA-2010 indicated a not very robust power supply for hard-to-drive speakers. Luckily for me the speakers it is driving are almost flat 8 Ohms; so, very little stress on the amp.
thanks for taking the time to research these 2 amps & compare their specs......