From what I have learned on the forum, I had a trial making Paul’s double shotgun construction speaker cable. Using 99.99% 24 AWG solid silver core insulated by teflon tube and covered by mesh nylon tube (or mesh P.E. tube, whatever you can find) as protection. Using heat shrink tube to fix silver wire and teflon at both ends in case the wire moving inside teflon. Now I have 16 lines. Use tapes to ID 4 lines as a group. I use 4 red tapes to ID 4 ends of 2 groups and 4 black tapes to ID another 2 groups. Each group will be for one end on a amp to another end on a speaker. Twist one red group with one black group as Paul did and add a section of heat shrink tube in the middle(of course I need to clamp each side before shrink tube). Split red and black at 200mm away from the end and heat shrink. This is to leave some straight lines for soldering work. Solder 4 ends with silver plated fork terminals. Again using heat shrink tube fixing mesh nylon with fork ends and cover my ugly soldering. This will finish one cable. Silver wire is pretty strong and I never break any of them during the trial. SQ is immediately changed on my system which had a copper cables before. The sound stage is wide opened with tighter bass. It was about 100 hours later the midrange getting much nicer. Silver cable I tried were in Liz structure and were with less tight bass and smaller sound stage and with harsh treble. I can’t say it 100% matches to Paul’s cable in SQ but I am quite satisfied with it. Double shotgun is a good structure. I used plain teflon tube and they are really cheap 1.7 USD a meter. I don’t think a Hifi grade one would change anything since they are for current insulation not noise isolation. Like many audiophiles said, speaker cables allow high current passing through and are not effected by home appliances unless there is a giant transformer outside of your house. My next trial is to see 6N or 7N silver or silver/gold alloy wire if they make any difference.
