Do I need a specific type of 4 gauge wire for my monoblock amp?


I purchased a JBL BP1200.1 monoblock amplifier, for the subwoofers in my Cobalt. It did not come with any wiring. There are 3, 40amp fuses on the amplifier. I think that means that the power cable that I hook up to it, needs to have a fuse that is at least 120 amps. I ordered an amp wiring kit online, and it comes with an in-line 80 amp fuse. 

My question is, can I buy and ANL fuse holder to replace the in-line fuse holder on the power cable? And do I use a 120 amp ANL fuse, or a 150 amp ANL fuse?
thirdeyethirdear

Showing 5 responses by thirdeyethirdear

Thanks for responding. So if I switch out the fuse holder from an 80 amp in-line fuse, to a 120amp ANL fuse, the 4 gauge wire and amp would be safe? I've never hooked up an amp to a car before, and I'm just trying to be as safe as possible.
The 40 amp fuses are located on the outside of the amp. (Idk which conductors. I took the safe route, and ordered another wiring kit. Its an OFC (copper) 4 gauge kit. The one I ordered last week, that hasn't arrived yet, was a 4 guage CCA (alluminum) kit. Hence why I was worried about wiring such a powerful amp through alluminum.
I have one final question. The amp is missing ONE set screw. Its an M7 set screw for the power or ground on the amp. Ive looked everywhere. So my question is, how can I securely connect the power (or ground) without that set screw? Can I solder something to fit the end of the wire??
This is for a class D monoblock subwoofer amplifier. Crutchfield said I should use one that's at least 120 amp.

The fuse goes between the battery and the amp itself.

Class d amps have a higher output than most other class a or a/b amps.
Thanks for all the advice. I ordered a good copper wiring kit.
 I might get a stiffening cap for it too.
This is for a jbl bp1200.1 (car audio mono amp) *not home audio.

Ill be hooking it up this week. 
Thanks for the advice everyone.