DIY TT

@rauliruegas Then I fabricate some tone arm holders and mount them onto one of the 3 feet?

@pindac do you have a link to Aurex - somehow my search is coming up empty. Or maybe I need to change the search location to Denmark ?

Thanks @clio09 @lewm @rauliruegas ​​​& ​@billwojo 

I did find a Luxman PD555 sort of near by, but it is ~5500 (USD). That would be a bit easier, but sucks up a lot of budget.

But maybe it is worth consideration too?

Thanks @oldhvymec

@pindac I am tracking now. And look forwards to your efforts.

The lead platter is interesting. A bit more costly and slightly (maybe) technically better would be tungsten inserts in some other metal or plastic.
(Of course one cannot cast that at home from old range debris, or spent batteries)

I saw a few Aurex/Toshiba DR-510 but no SR-520 links.

I’ll likely await to se how your efforts go, and move other projects to the front of the queue.

Thanks @pindac I guess I have a couple of questions:

1. Is it worthwhile to have a 12” and a 9:” arm?
2. For instance, I have only a single MONO LP, and will not be using a mono cartridge.
3. I’ve been looking at a few 12” arms, none of which will fit on the current (old) TT.
   1. e.g. Star 12”
   2. A friend had an Origin-Live, and is vocal about his troubles.
   3. The SAT arm looked good, but that 32k Euro was 10dB higher than I would like.

If I select a plinth material that needs a water jet I’ll reach out.
I have been considering something like a Corian/metal and constrained dampening layer sandwich.

@rauliruegas 
I have an old Sota Saffire TT with an SAEC WE0317 arm.
Current MI cartridge is a Garrott Bros p77i, which replaces a worn out Blue Point Special… They are sort of like the SoundSmith in that they are MI.

I just picked up a secondhand phono stage that allows for LOMC cartridges to be used. So the Hana ML, AT Art, etc can now be considered, where as the previous phono stage (old ARC PH2) only did 47k MM at 42 or maybe 48 dB of gain.

@lewm Iwas responding to Raul, who asked 

Btw, which TT/tonearm/cartridges do you own?

So yeah mentioning the TT - I guess also could mean that there are the implicit question of:

1. Maybe just stick with the Sota?
2. Cannibalise the Soto for motor and speed controller?
3. Modify the Sota to accept a second tone arm?

But I think Raul’s question was more of a perspective to understand where I am coming from? (I dunno, I am not a mind reader.)

Thanks Jim - I am relatively handy with the wood tools.
Not great - but good enough to with table saws and routers.

I might pull the Sota apart and inspect the bearing and take some measurements.

There was a host of posts appear about the perception of improved SQ within systems be noticed.

The period was known as the unprecedented period for using modern HiFi, as the Grid Power Supply was not being drawn on in a capacity that is usual, and the reduction in Traffic and Transport Services had substantially reduced seismic activity, the seismic monitoring stations was reading this drop in vibration.

Again a group of individuals across the world detecting change through subjective, evaluation, with a little bit of additional ambient environment being known of to make the claims seem feasible.

It is possible that people with nothing to do were more attentive to the music, in general, because they had less on their minds… or just to escape the drama. And perhaps they believed that it sounded between because they listened better?

The most commonly used vibration measurement methods, which are using accelerometers and laser devices as the methods to measure are not suitable for vibration measurement of micro vibrations. The methods referred to as Optical interferometry has the advantages of being a non-contact system and measures to a very high accuracy.

If someone (like @vinylzone ) had another system available…

Then they could:

• Power the speakers with system #2, running it hotter than normal.
• Put the stylus on a non spinning table
• Listen, or record, what is coming through the TT system… as any vibs will be shaking the interface between the cart and turntable.

I would expect that low freqs would bleed through, with their higher amplitude… but who knows?

If something was coming through, then repeat the test with System #2 playing pink noise and we could then figure out the freqs that the systems is most prone to resonating at, and what the apparent Q is.

There might be other ways, but this seems pretty quick if one can disconnect the phono stage and has a ADC to record with.

It is possible that the musical signals could be coupled into the phono units electrically… but keeping the phono stuff away from the other cables should help.

it is somewhat better than the laser gear, as if the plinth was stable and the arm was being shaken we still get a measurement… and visa versa.
And if they are both in a common mode, then any “CMRR like” effect would result in low apparent vibration.

And they could do the pink noise testing at 70, 80, 90, 100 dB… to further understand it. 

Dear @holmz  : " a low bid for a DQX, which was declined..."

Looks like you really did not want to buy it and is at a bargain price. No, problem fine with me.

6 hours to go was a bit close. So I bid low offer.
Obviously I was tying to not be emotional and not too rushed.

Now, I understand that your SOTA is not the Saphire model or at least you don't stated that way.

You understand incorrectly. |t is a Saphire.

In the other side is weird that you don't make any comment in the most important and critical  " partner " of any cartridge: the tonearm. You own the entry level of knife bearing SAEC tonearm and if I were you and before the TT I change that saec for a way better tonearm specially for the LOMC cartridges.

Looks like I have a lot of homework to do in order to understand what makes a good arm and a bad arm.
+ I think that entry level was the 308 and the 317 was a step up?

Thanks @pindac I will - 

It contains images that will surely get the creative thoughts working overtime.

…

The Through Section of the JVC shows a substantial material has been selected for the Chassis and the walls and base of the Recessed Bowl.

Reminds me of a hemispheric resonator gyroscope.

Not a Trekkie, but more of a techie maybe?

 

Would the average enthusiast for using LP's to replay a recording, find it  necessary to use such an experience to suggest that a few subjective evaluations, where a friend or two likes the experience and musical encounter with their preferred music being replayed, is an evidence that you are an authority and guru on a set up for a LP replay.  

I am not sure he is claiming guru authority?
I thought it was more like a description or observation.

I would probably have stayed with the plywood if I thought it was vibrating, just because I “believe” it damps better.
But the maple should be stiffer, and in a system mounted on a solid wall, it makes sense too.

Anyhow… I appreciate @vinylzone  input and yours.

I also get a bunch of kudos for my finger joints. Life is good:-)  

Literally woodworking finger joints?
or figurative finger joints like give someone the bird? 😂

In the other side here the SP10 specs:

Direct-Drive
Motor :	brushless DC
Speed lock :	Quartz-Locked phase control
Platter :	Ø 32cm / 3kg diecast aluminium
Startup torque :	6kg /cm
Starting time :	0,25s (33 1/3rpm)
Load characteristics :	0% up to 5kg /cm
Speed accuracy :	± 0,002% (10MK2)
Wow & flutter :	0,02% WRMS (JIS C5521)
	± 0,035% (peak, DIN 45507)
S/N ratio :	86 db  ( DIN-B )

 

Here the Toshiba 510:

Type :	AC servo motor
System :	Direct-drive
Speeds :	33 1/3rpm
	45rpm
Wow & flutter :	0,03% (WRMS)
Pitch control :	± 4%
S/N ratio :	60dB
Platter :	30cm / 1,2kg

I am more inclined towards the 86 dB SNR than the 60 dB.
I put in a low bid for a DQX, which was declined.

———

As far as Townsend products, after hearing Einstein go off on non stop rants and personal attacks, I doubt I would consider any of the Townsend equipment… just on general principle (and disgust).

———

I have been email Sota for the last 6 months, and I got another last night from Sota. I’ll think the time frames.

Have you ever given LENCO TTs a thought?

…

Yeah - there was a fellow in SF that has an older one in 240v, but that went a bit cold. I might reach out again, as if I just do the Eclipse/roadrunner on the Sota I could run it while the Sota is belly up.
 

I got the Garrott Bros p77i running today, and played 20 LPs (parts of them anyhow).
It was pretty enjoyable, and that cartridge was sounding pretty nice.

There is the eclipse more and roadrunner option for the Sota, and I was expecting that to be able to be done in the field. I do have a lathe and access to most shop tools… but we will see, and the idea of a long shipment is distressing.

But as it is playing now, I am a but happier than yesterday.

I decided ti just order a hot rod kit to bring the old SOTA up to spec.

@pindac @vinylzone et. al.,

I got the arm board drilled, and the sub chassis springs in.
Will work on the motor and controller, and wiring next.

I found that the bearing is shot in the SOTA.

But it make not obvious noise, so I’ll get the arm set up while emailing back-n-forth with SOTA.

Where does one get a DIY platter and bearing?
I am thinking I have the old motor and its power supply and the old arm.
I could just chuck it all onto a plinth of some sort (maybe a panderholz board) and then if I. had a platter/bearing assembly, I could have a second TT for use in the shed?

Holmz, just buy the SOTA Eclipse package complete. Does it occur to you that the question “ where do I buy a DIY platter and bearing?” Is internally an oxymoron, since DIY implies you want to make those items yourself.

I got the motor package and all the stuff.
Now will be getting the bearing for the existing table.

This bearing I am looking for, is for the left over bits… arm, cart, old motor… 
If I could get a Clear Audio magnet bearing assembly, that would be ideal and I could make a plinth and have a second deck.
…Well it would be a plinth and then a platter to go onto the spindle/bearing assembly.

Add P'holz to add to the management of energy transfer, well I wish I present to see your expression at the first Album Reply with the new designs in use.

No Panzerholz that I could find available in Australia, and the places in the US sell it by the 4’x8’ sheet.
I’ll try a router forum, and see if some others have off cuts or want to get parts of sheets.

Basically I need one piece, or a couple of pieces, that are closer to the size.

 

@holmz , The new Sota bearing is just like the Clearadio. It has a magnetic thrust mechanism. The female section of the bearing is an integral part of the platter so what you are talking about is a new platter assembly which is heavier than what you currently have and the suspension will sag and it’s resonance frequency drop.

The old platter goes on the existing table.

I was thinking I could recycle the old arm, motor and cart into a table for my daughter, or to use in the shed outside.
To do that I would need a plinth, bearing and platter. I have access to a lathe and would likely use acrylic and maybe stuff in some copper plugs towards the outer edge to make the intertia a bit higher without making it heavier.

And since that would be a second table it would not have the Sota springs, but maybe some anti vibration feet to hold the plinth up.

You are best off sending the table back to Sota and let them upgrade it for you or just trade it in on a new Sapphire Eclipse. You might as well add vacuum clamping while you are at it.

SOTA have been good, and I have rebuild stuff for the existing table from them.

I was more than just a little bit reticent in sending back the whole table, but I did send back the platter Friday.
In hindsight, I could have sent the platter assembly, separate from the table, and kept the cover here.
And then reassembled it back here.

As far as multiple arms are concerned if you get additional; tonearm boards weighted for any specific arm you can have several arms mounted up and fully aligned then changing arms is a snap. Three Allen cap screws is all you have to undo. I can change arms in less than five minutes. I am contemplating getting a wood CB directly from Frank Schroder and doing just that.

I made my first arm board about 1988 I think.
And two more a month or three ago.

The CB-9 is going on one of those two arm boards. Basically I had enough alloy for two, and if I jacked up the drilling I would have a spare.

I would be a bit apprehensive changing an arm board with the CB-9 and cart attached. It would be easier/safer if it had a removable head shell.

The drilling went easier than I expected and the spindle to hole was bang on 222mm. It took a bit of futzing around with a calculator, calipers, center drills etc.

Since I did not have a 10” caliper, I took a scrap of alloy and measured from its edge.

I am dropping off the alloy arm board to get a black anodise.
The Pythagorean math was left on the alloy disc.

With the CB-9 fully lowered, it is pretty flat and makes it easier to measure. But when doing the arm board scribing, there is a drop between the table and the arm board. Nothing too difficult, just time consuming to check, recheck, check 4 more times.