DIY AC cable...which bulk cable?

I use the Oyaide P4/C4 which I find to have a very clean, clear sound though I am very curious to try the Furutech F1-50 too.

I purchased the Furutech FI 48 R because they were 25% off.
I think they are one step below the top model.
They are a good match to the Furutech rhodium top level IEC in the amps,the only connectors in the line from the panel.
That line is simple 10 guage solid core Romex, and a generic 20 amp breaker.

I've had good luck with Furutech, but there are other brands that would offer similar improvements over stock power cords.

I have long runs so I use romex.
If the distance from the panel to the gear was short I would improve on the wiring,but I think better connectors can improve cheap wire, whereas cheap connectors will compromise the expensive wires.

Just to follow up to my earlier comment, I ended up making 4 PCs using the DH Labs Power Plus AC Reference bulk cable. Purchased from the Cable Co and was shipped direct from DH Labs to me. The cable is very robust, looks amazing, and it 'fairly' easy to work with. The outer jacket is pretty stiff at first, and you have to be careful cutting it because the jackets on the internal wires are pretty thin and easy to nick. Overall, a really nice cable. Very neutral in tone. Just gives you pure, noise-free power delivery.

Heyimderrick - since you seem like a handy guy - are you game for a
simple cable tweak ?

Once the cables are burned in, instead of just inserting the bare cable into
the connector, crimp small spades onto the conductors and then insert
those into the connector.

I first tried this on my 10 gauge cable - it was quite cumbersome, but the
spade made installation of the connectors easier.

The effect however, was immediately noticeable.

I found this improves detail, image and dynamics, especially on my source
components.

I used inexpensive spades ($1.20 for 10) from an electronics hobby store -
just make sure the spade is a fairly tight fit on the wire. The spades
normally have the gauge on them.

Why does it make a difference? The only reason I can think of is the spade
provides a larger area for the connection.

BTW, I also have pretty good crimping pliers - the crimp width is about
6mm.

I have tried this on DH Labs Encore cable and it worked well.

The spades take about five hours to burn in completely, but you should
notice some improvement right away..

Something to try on these long winter nights :-)

I know that solder can have an effect on making a connection,so srew on or crimped is best,but isn't adding a crimped spade,adding something akin to solder?

Instead of a bare wire screwed to the connector,now you are introducing a third variable and disimilar metal to the mix.Maybe brass or tin?

I have thought that all the strands of copper may not make exactly the same connection to the connector.Hence, perhaps not a 100% perfect contact of all wires to the connector,and even some strands with minor cracks or breaks which could lead to a non uniform connection.
Just speculation,however,but it has come to mind.
That's why I like solid core wires.
But I might try flatening the ends so that more of the copper connects to the receptacles.
I believe some interconnetcs and speaker wires promote an oval type wire geometry as being a better conductor.
Although I have no experience with them to know for sure.

Instead of cheap dimestore spades,have you ever tried DIY and using silver or gold and fashioning your own type of spade?

That sounds interesting to me.
Perhaps the next tweak venture start up company?