Digital Room Correction vs Room Treatments


I finally got a mic and used REW to analyze my room.  Attached is the freq response for 3 different speakers (Monitor Audio Gold Reference 20, Sonus Faber Electa Amator II, and Sonus Faber Concerto Domus).

They all show similar characteristics - at least the most prominent ones.  I did play around with the Amators trying them closer together and more forward in the room, but the major characteristics you see were mostly unchanged.

With this magnitude and number of deviations from a more ideal frequency response curve, am I better off biting the bullet and just doing digital room correction, or can these issues be addressed with room treatments without going crazy and having the room look like Frankenstein’s lab.

Cost is a consideration, but doing it right/better is the most important factor.

If digital room correction is a viable way to address this, what are the best solutions today?  My system is largely analog (80’s/90’s Mcintosh preamp/amp, tube phono stage), and streaming isn’t a priority (though I’m not against it).

 If the better digital correction solutions come in the form of a streaming HW solution, that’s fine, I’d do that.  

Just looking for guidance on the best way to deal with the room, as both serious room treatments and digital EQ room correction are both areas I haven’t delved into before.


Thanks all.  If more info is needed, let me know.  My room is 11.5’ wide and 15.5’ long with the speakers on the short wall.  Backs of speakers are 3-3.5’ off the front wall and they’re at least 2ft from either side wall.  Some placement flexibility is there, but not a huge amount.

captouch

Showing 4 responses by kofibaffour

uhm you should never smooth bass region in REW... so use VAR smoothing. Also you need to tackle the modes. Push your speakers closer to the front wall and see how that changes the RTA and the modes in your room. DSP is used in tandem with treatment, but treatment takes precedence @captouch 

@captouch have you tried as close to the front wall as possible to see how that looks? Close enough that your speaker cables may touch the wall but not be deformed

@captouch oh then I guess you gotta use the best fit that gives the least dip in the below 60Hz region. I thought it was just the front wall bare behind your speakers

@captouch I guess physics does hold. Good that you've found out for yourself that as close to the front wall as possible is a better null reducer.

 

Also yes if you can DIY some corner wedges that are from corner floor to ceiling or even midpoint with this Rockwool - https://lumberbarn.com/products/rockwool-comfortbatt%C2%AE-stone-wool-insulation as the filling material.

 

But he's the two subwoofers are very important and you need to do the subwoofer crawl with mains when you get them