Denon DL 103 modifications and re-body questions thread


Dear all

I bought a DL103r to see what the fuss is all about, and found it fairly pleasant. Many people go on about re-bodying the cartridge so I took the plunge and bought an aluminium body.

I have noticed a few threads that are a bit disparate on these questions - the first question on my list being what I needed answered, but it would be helpful if thoughts can be posted on the other questions from those with the know how.

1. Should I glue the cartridge into the new body
2. What glue should I use
3. What are the characteristics of the various materials
4. Should I re-tip
5. What sort of new tip
6. who should I get to re-tip
7. Best arm matches
8. best tracking weight


lohanimal

Showing 4 responses by roberjerman

You should also consider getting a good step-up transformer (SUT). MC cartridges like the 103 (I have several of its variants) are low-voltage/high current devices. The best way to convert this low voltage to enough for a MM phonostage is with a SUT. This preserves the MC's low noise floor (superior to MM's) and avoids the added noise of an active stage. 
SUT's do vary in SQ! I have several, including a Denon and a Quicksilver, plus two custom-made. Had a Verion (Cotter) but stupidly sold it! The people that diss the 103 probably have never heard it (or any other LOMC) with a good transformer!
@dover : Thank you for your cogent explanation! My first encounter with a 103 was on a TOTL Denon DD TT with the 307 arm (1976). A Levinson JC-1 clone was used as a pre-preamp. SQ was phenomenal considering that this was a venerable cartridge design (1962) with a spherical stylus! 
@lewm : Read Mitchell Cotter's article in The Audio Critic (circa '77) where he lays out the case for the superiority of MC's and the SUT/active stage controversy. I owned his Verion P transformer and used it for years with the GAS Sleeping Beauty elliptical. Arm was a Lustre GST-1 (Koshin/Jelco) on an Ariston RD-11S.