Dedicated power lines-getting started


Any advice please on the right questions to ask my local electrical contractor re: dedicated power lines.
I'm very interested in getting this done but I'm obviously"electrically challenged" when it comes to this stuff.
Also any feedback on estimated cost, time involved, material etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
greh

Showing 3 responses by audioengr

ChrisVH - a question. Do you have patents on the cable designs that you are referring to?

Seems to me the right to litigate intellectual property is based on having a patent first. Otherwise, it is just a trade secret, which have the nasty habit of getting out unless they are invisible or potted in epoxy etc...
If you want to meet code requirements and have a really low-inductance path to your components, particularly your amps, then this is what I would recommend (several have followed this advice and are astonished by the improvement):

Buy three wires, white, black and green insulated 10 or 12 AWG THHN solid copper wire. It has thin insulation.

Twist the black and white wires together in a pair at 4-6 twists per foot.

Twist the green wire around the first pair in the opposite twist direction as the first pair. Twist rate is not too important, just to hold it together as a unit.

Then fish the assembly through plastic conduit in the walls using a "fish-tape" - an electrician worth his salt will have one.

Terminate the wires to a good outlet, such as the PS Audio or Acme silver ones.

This creates very low inductance compared to any ROMEX, no matter what gauge you use. Low inductance is what makes the difference, not low resistance, but it helps.
subaruguru wrote:
The advantage of this Belden is that it's shielded and all-Teflon dielectric.

The shielding I see as a disadvantage, the Teflon is good. There is no scientific reason to shield either power cords or speaker cables unless you are wanting to reduce dynamics. This is why I recommend plastic conduit and plastic junction boxes.