Dedicated Audio Room Lighting Ideas?


Before closing up the walls in my new dedicated audio room, I need to settle on the room lighting approach so I can put in the wiring and boxes. The lighting needs to be both bright enough for working in the room and adjustable to suit the moods of 2 channel listening.

The only constraint is I don't want to use can lights since the ceiling is a key part of isolating the sound from the room above and they provide a conduit for the sound. Track lights might work but they would need to be very unobtrusive as the ceiling is 7 1/2 ft. Sconces are a possibility.

Any suggestions? I have looked at many rooms on this site and most pictures show the rooms well, but not the lighting.
128x128zargon

Showing 4 responses by yioryos

Zargon
In regards to 5/8 drywall sheets,each weights 100lbs and if you are planning to do your ceilings with double 5/8's have extra 3-4 helpers available .I did my entire 3 floor house with 5/8 drywall only the exterior walls as per building firecode,all ceilings are done in 1/2 .It wasn't easy to lift the sheets in place let me tell you.I did insulate between floor joists and interior wall studs using Roxul acoustical insulation.No sound comes through as far as I can tell and in general the rooms feel more cozy.Just a reminder in case you are not aware of it but there is got to be at least an inch of air space between the acoustical insulation and drywall for it to work properly.So don't pack it in there.Actually I like the Disco ball and strobes myself and I might just install some in my listening room for when playing dance music.
Best of luck with your project.
George
Toronto
Moonray,the hoist is great but only when there is space to wheel it around and no obstructios.In my years in construction I only seen it used rarely in residential work.I my case I had to do cathedral ceilings(sloped)on the third floor where my listening room will be.Also I had a large staircase opening on the floor that the machine couldn't being used.I carried all drywall from Home Depot to my home in my F150 and had to offload and carry each sheet up three floors turn and manuver around.The first one felt alright but on the 12th one I was exausted.I am sure you get the picture. I did three floors of drywall,walls ceilings.A complete home you see.It took me 4 months by myself and when I did the ceilings first I had floor jacks made of 2x4 studs and two pieces of rigid insulation on top of the jacks so the drywall wasn't damaged .It worked good but still all lifting was manual by me while my wife held the drywall gun ready to hand it to me.My two kids aged 8 and 12 were assisting also by placing the jacks in position once I had the drywall in place on the ceiling.I saved a lot of money by doing it myself and in the process I lost some unwanted pounds.LOL.
Zargon ,just to clarify there in no space required around the insulation but between insulation and drywall.A 2x4 constructed wall provides a 3.5 inch cavity depth,the insulation is only 2.5 inch thick.But between the studs the insulation needs to be tight.
All the best
George
Zargon You need to buy the Roxul brand Fire and Sound insulation.It is greenish brown in color and you cut it easy with the help of a bread knive.If you use regular Olfa knive it will dull the blades fast.Don't use R19 Dow Corning Pink ,that's good for thermal only ,although I believe pink brand makes their own version of acoustical insulation.My local Home Depot here in Toronto only stock Roxul.
George
Also R19 or the most efficient R21 is for 2x6 walls ,the R12 is for 2x4 wall.If you R19 or 21 on 2x4 walls the pressure of the insulation on the drywall will eventually make it pop off the drywall screws in the future,and you will need to repair that.Not a good idea.
George