concrete slab vs/ wood floor - pros and cons


Audiogoners, given the choice, with sound quality being a top priority, which choice is usually better?

I have been given the green light from my wife, bless her heart, to convert our stand-alone 1935-era garage into a dedicated music/theater room - woo hoo!! The fact that it's a separate structure will be ideal for playing loud movies whenever without bothering anyone in the house. The space is roughly 11.5 x 17' and I think it will make a terrific intimate theater. It's completely unfinished inside and has a sturdy stucco exterior. It's a very solid structure. However, the concrete floor has some large cracks lengthwise due to settling so it is pretty crowned in the middle. If I keep the concrete, I will need to build a floor over the slab and shim it quite a bit to level it out enough to install the underlayment. Headroom is limited as the walls are just over 7 feet, although the roofline peaks at just over 10' in the center, enough height to hang my projector.

If I removed the concrete, then I could dig down and build a normal floor over wood joists with a nice hollow space underneath. My house is built over a crawlspace with hardwood floors and I like the quality of bass and overall sound I get in our living room. The downside is that it would be more difficult to convert the garage back later to use for parking a car if we move. I was thinking it might be cool to design this type of floor and then have space below for insulation, wiring, etc. without sacrificing any height. Maybe the floor could even be designed as a sort of bass trap to help with the sound. Any thoughts? -thanks, -jz


john_z

Showing 9 responses by zieman

John, Garages have been built the same way for a very long time, with a floating slab. This means that, yes you can tear out the old slab and the stem walls will remain. Forever... Ever wonder why the floor is cracked and not the stems? Two different pours. My guess (not really) is that the garage was first built with a dirt floor. That is how it was done in '35. The conc floor was probably "homeowner" done in the recent past. Tear it up. It will likely be simple cause it was done on the cheap, and is not 4 inches thick, nor does it have any baserock. Or rebar. Dig down another 4 inches, compact A/B, then barrier that, throw a little steel in there, run some conduit for your surround wires/cables and you have a floor that will increase resale value. Hang 5/8 board on the walls and you will realize how bad the bass is that you think you like now. Your Welcome. Z
John, Tell NS to input only if he has some clue about the topic. Yes, the driveway and garage floor (in HW) were done at the same time, AS I describe. NOT the foundation. I will be bringing a wet saw, so there won't be too many laughs, just a VERY RED face! How about if the structure remains standing, NSGump pays? Two hours with the saw, two more with the Bobcat. Can MR. 837 answers afford that? John, please consider the source here, ever see anyone else with speakers four feet apart, who knew what they were talking about? ha,ha!! Z.
OH Yeah, and John, tell the city NSGump has a wet stamp for the redesign to the "peak". Most engineers would call it a ridge. Better to have NS there to smooth everything out with them... NOT! ha ha!! Z.
Gump, So I guess this means you are turning down my offer to help the member with the floor? Keeping you behind the monitor will likely be the safest for us after all. The nice members here USED to know your "credentials". They are beginning to wonder now, how much of the other stuff you have been spewing comes from your rather fertile imagination, rather than education or experience. How is that soundstage anyway! Gump is reinventing the mono revolution? ha,ha!! Z.
John, If you would like to become intimately familiar with the term "Red Tag" and your city's Building Dept., follow Gumps advice. Roof trusses are an engineered product, leave them as they are. Since I am also in the SF Bay Area, please call me over when the plumbers tape diagonal bracing is looked at. The City may take photos for their "wall of shame". My definition of an "unnecessary expense" would be The City's requirement that you demo this now non-complying structure and rebuild to current code from approved drawings. Figure about 85 bucks a foot by following Gump off the cliff. My suggestion might burn up 2500 and add twice that in equity. Tough choice... Z.
Jaffe, I could not agree more. Good thing we are only getting incorrect input for a 200sq.ft. detatched structure! I am afraid I have to add that most of the audio advice is in the same league. Wasn't always this way here... "Those who can, do, those who can't, teach", fits these forum sitters. All one has to do, however is look at the profile and see if the advisor is a member with all the answers and no questions, as well as the extent of trading feedback. Thanks for the help! Z.
Jaffe, "qualified to do so" is/was my point as well. Plumbers tape for shear is just one example. Clearly, an unqualified bit of advice, that if followed, would have led to a bit of pain, had the OP followed it. I'm sure you cringed as well. The forums are now somewhat populated by "professional" posters. IMposters if you ask me. How this or that worked for me, or how this or that "might" work for you, is more appropriate, as you stated. I agree. Thanks. Z.
Well! Now that makes three of us! Do I see a trend here! Gump, you gettin all this? Troll away was it? Ha ha!! Z.
Jaffe, Don't leave! We construction professionals can provide valuable suggestions, (including advice to seek local professionals) as well as nip the bad advice in the bud. As to the bantering (what a polite term!) I have seen a huge increase in pure pontification. Is this bantering distasteful? Sure. Curative? I certainly hope so... Z.