Class D amps that are superior to all or most?


Recently, I have heard about some Class D amps that may be close to the best there is regardless of class. Certainly, this technology has been in development for decades. The main issue has always been the switching power supply. In this regard, I have taken notice of AGD. They have created a whole new power supply that “switches” at a frequency 100 times the normal silicon based MOSFET. The designer uses a gallium nitride based PS. Interesting, it is enclosed in the KT88 glass envelope that sits on top of his amps. I am aware of two more pricey amps that seem to be also at the top- the Solution and the Merrill. There must be others that compete for the title. After my thread, “Is there a SS amp that can satisfy a SET guy?”, I am still on the quest.
Don’t want to spend $50K!
mglik

Showing 35 responses by georgehifi


kuribo
Really.

Really! then look again, and give your      a rest.
"most" being the operative word
Good Class-A IS the most perfect amplification so far
and this again "closest" is the operative word
they are the closest to being the perfect topology so far

Cheers George
there is no "flawless" amplification class

I didn't say flawless, I said the "closest" to "being technically perfect", which is still but a dream within a dream.
And amps aren't designed using maths, EE laws and test instruments, and then fine tuned using the same, anyone that doesn't do this, I suggest you stay well away those voodooists and snake oilers.

Cheers George


That’s your opinion vs technologies opinion.
The purest form of amplification if "done right" without any other flaws (except for heat) is Class-A, be it in opamps, tubes, or any solid state.



Can someone answer this for me please, especially George...
and people with class A amps live with class A defects

The only "defects" good class-A’s have is the heat they produce, this does not effect the sound, otherwise they are the closest to being the perfect topology so far.
Unless you live in central Australia, then the windows would have to be open and you’d hear this
https://youtu.be/4lZt-JLhsg4?t=96
Guess who he’s laughing at?😂

You need to style your own life buddy, lay off the sauce, it makes you obnoxious🤦‍♂️


WoW!! Out of the blue personal attack once again, had a bit too much Dutch courage 💪
I don't like leaving my amps on 24/7, does anyone do that when you're out of town?
Don't listen to them if they do🤦‍♂️.

Just turn on your amps a 1/2hr before listening.
It's also good for the capacitators conditioning, to turn the amps off as they drain and can recharge again from empty.

Cheers George   

Bass can never be too fast.

Or tight.
Very true, but to others don’t confuse fast and tight with being lean either. You can have it all if you work at it.
Cheers George
Good for you Ralph, you need a different income stream direction now, with tubes waning.

https://ibb.co/gt4qW9x

Challenge your self, nothing I said was aimed at you, yet you took it to heart, wonder why.

Whatever, your new class-D will tell if it’s remotely equal to the better high A- biased linear Class-|A/B amps, if it ever sees the light of day.
It’s no wonder he didn’t like a class D amp -- most have vanishingly small distortion.

 They have other problems also, like the Ice-Power’s 1200AS2 that has massive phase shift from it’s output filter way down into the mids (red trace) https://ibb.co/J2Hns7s and also (blue trace) a sharp rising output impedance starting at also at the same frequency as the phase shift does. Sure throw maybe a **** load of feedback at it and it could fix it, but to what other detriment.

Cheers George


Facts are

Everyone likes what good Class-D’s do in the bass on loads that are not too severe, but many hear some thing not quite right with Class-D in the upper mids/highs with many speakers, and this is it’s Achilles heel.
Technics (SE-R1/SU-R1000) claim to get rid of it by making the switching frequency 3 x higher, 1.5mhz, so that then the output filter is also 3 x higher and therefore it has little or no influence down into the upper mids/highs.
Most Class-D’s that have around 600khz switching frequencies, have output filters that have effects down into the upper mids and highs.
And yes throwing a **** load of feedback may fix it, but the best amp "theoretically" would be ones that use no feedback if it can be done without distortions, or very little or local not global.

Cheers George

carlsbad Coincidentally I just got MLs and my tinnitus is quite a bit louder than normal. I've wondered if it was the brighter highs. but it is probably just that I'm listening to it more. I don't listen very loud, in brighter speakers I listen quieter.

I'd say you haven't really heard what those ESL's can achieve in the upper mids/highs, until they are driven with a good linear high bias class-A/B amp.

Cheers George
timlub1,865 posts05-08-2021 10:31am
@jeales Your statement about frequency response varies by load on class D amps is not necessarily true


I believe it is, as the best I’ve heard Belcanto M600 monoblocks (NC500) is through a very benign 6ohm 2 way stand mount, that used a Raven ribbon tweeter, which is basically a load that looks like a 6ohm resistor. On more expensive ML ESL’s and other good floor standers they didn’t sound as good through the upper mids and highs, a little artificial and cold.
And as far as measurements go, class-D get exponentially worse distortion figures when differently loaded the higher the frequency is, look at any tested Stereophile distortion graphs done on class-D (new Mytek Brooklyn) rising distortions upward from 1.5khz
https://www.stereophile.com/images/421Mytekfig06.jpg
Compared to a linear amplifier, much better far lower,  and starts to rise higher and gradual, not so savagely rising
https://www.stereophile.com/images/1115BAHB2fig07.jpg

Cheers George

ieales
The variations can be small, but they will vary with every load presented. Hence, the perceived sound of the amplifier can vary with each speaker.

This Stereophile image of PS Audio’s Stellar M-1200 shows it well damped and relatively immune to load variations. https://www.stereophile.com/images/1220PS1200fig01.jpg

Ditto this Schiit Aegir https://www.stereophile.com/images/919SchAegirfig01.jpg

Not so much this new Mytek Brooklyn AMP+ https://www.stereophile.com/images/421Mytekfig01.jpg

Making a purchasing decision based on the written word is folly. Doubly so for fan-boy recommendations.

I’m not knocking Class D. I have one driving the woofers in my tri-amp system.



Yes and you have to remember all those measurements are made using Stereophile AP Aux-0025 low pass filter

Stereophile:
All measurements are made AUX-0025 passive low-pass filter between the amp and the analyzer.
The Audio Precisions Aux-0025 is a very steep low pass low power filter filter between amp and analyzer which makes things look even better than what they really are. Used in all the Stereophile measurements in the last 10 years.
Without it before (Stereophile got the filter) things looked much worse, but showed was what was "really coming out of the speakers terminal" they looked like this, (same amp) what you get is the 1st picture when buying the amp. (switching frequency noise evident)
https://www.stereophile.com/images/1212AM1fig02.jpg

When the Stereophile AUX-0025 filter was put in place they look like this
(switching noise filtered out by Stereophile’s test filter)
https://www.stereophile.com/images/1212AM1fig03.jpg not what you get when buying the amp.

Solution to rid the switching noise in the audio band, and it’s by product phase shift:
Raise the switching frequency 3 x so to the amps output filter, then the switching noise will also be reduced by 3 times , so to the unacceptable hf phase shift, like this Icepower 1200as2 in red https://ibb.co/kMZd9bF
Like Technics do with their SE-R1 Class-D and some say the SU-R1000 integrated also.

Cheers George
Just your opinion.

NO!!!!

Like I said.
Hey all I asked was give us something, anything at all, to back this statement up of yours below, that’s all, nothing more nothing less.
ricevs
You can see the insides of the Voyager on Underwood’s site. You will want it modified. Lots to do there.


Things need to be kept honest here, if not this forum would have been overrun by fusers threads.
Instead of being shifted to the "Misc Audio" forum every-time one popped up here thank god by those that care and reporting them. (Should be call the BS forum)The admin here I don’t think are very technical, so they go with some of the tech heads here on these threads giving them info when reporting, but then there’s the sharks that pray on the gullible that say just enough to suck them in but not quite enough to get them deleted.(they are the used cars salesmen of audio)
Cheers George
Hey all I asked was give us something, anything at all.
To back this statement up of yours below, that's all, nothing more nothing less.
ricevs
You can see the insides of the Voyager on Underwood’s site. You will want it modified. Lots to do there.



Give up while your behind.
And I asked what you to tell us what would do to it to make it sooo much better?? WE’RE ALL STILL WAITING!!!
And I promise not to say a word, unless your answer is voodoo or snake oil.

ricevs
You can see the insides of the Voyager on Underwood’s site. You will want it modified. Lots to do there.



ricevs
Thanks for the Love.....you and George must be buddies.....he he.
The fact is that everything makes a sonic difference
"Snake oilers" just don’t get it, they prey on the gullible here to line their pockets.
https://ibb.co/K2k7Dz8



ricevs
You can see the insides of the Voyager on Underwood’s site. You will want it modified. Lots to do there.
And please what differences are you going to make that you say you can see in this pic will transform this GaN Class-D????
https://www.underwoodhifi.com/sites/default/files/GaN%20350%20inside%20shot.jpg

So, does muting my EVS1200 have a benefit, and if so how often and for how long?

Stop calling it a mute, (as by ricevs, IF correct?) the amp is OFF!, and yes all the electro caps are drained and everything is de-powered and charged up from empty when you turn it on again. (good for the caps)

And it is NOT on and in a warmed up state 24/7 as some😵 here think!!!

A mute only stops the input signal and leaves the amp switched on!
It may possibly have a input sens circuit (standby) which can turn the amp all on when a music signal is detected at the input like a subwoofer standby.


Sorry, wrong Curly, it was tweak1, same same.
tweak1
My EVS 1200 has dual muting switches. Will muting them be as effective?

I said
"Muting"
If your referring to keeping electro caps in great condition just by muting, NO!
Only being switched off from the ac mains will do, either by the amps "AC power switch" or the ac wall socket.

You (ricevs said) your words!!!!!!!!!
George is wrong, in this case. The muting circuit in the EVS1200 amp both shorts the inputs to ground and puts the amp in standby (turns off the main power supply.....SO NO CAPS ARE BEING CHARGED!!).


Like I said the amp is off not muted.
No caps being charged, means no amp is on to be warmed up!!!!!
So leaving the amp in this condition does nothing for it being warmed up for it to sound better either as eric thinks!

And like I said your not doing all electrolytic caps any favor’s by leaving amps on anyway, your making them have less storage capacity as they get lower uF, instead of being re-generated (polarized) when turn off and fully drained then charged back up again when turned back on.
In other words they get a false empty floor memory, like some batteries. And not to mention your cooking them and drying out the electrolyte as ieales tried to tell you.


Once again, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8W_zAD5Mcw yeah baby!
You guys really need to remember what ** are in your post

I said
To those who want to understand, why it’s better to turn off your amps, here it is simply as possible.
(as they like to be drained and recharged otherwise a false permanent "empty floor" happens and your electrolytic power supply caps won’t have the uF storage ability they once had when new

Nonoise asked
My EVS 1200 has dual muting switches. Will muting them be as effective?

I said
"Muting"
If your referring to keeping electro caps in great condition just by muting, NO!
Only being switched off from the ac mains will do, either by the amps "AC power switch" or the ac wall socket.

You (ricevs said) your words!!!!!!!!!
George is wrong, in this case. The muting circuit in the EVS1200 amp both shorts the inputs to ground and puts the amp in standby (turns off the main power supply.....SO NO CAPS ARE BEING CHARGED!!).


Like I said the amp is off not muted. No caps being charged, means no amp is on to be warmed up! So leaving the amp in this condition does nothing for it being warmed up for it to sound better either as 24/7 eric thinks!!!!!!!!!


Once again, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8W_zAD5Mcw
George,
So much drama over nothing. Its just words. Here is how I describe it on my website:

No it’s lies being told to members for the sake of "trying" to gain notoriety.

End of story, if the power supply (SMP or Linear) is not switch on and no electrolytic caps are being charged up (as you said), the neither is the amplifier!!!
SO THE AMP CANNOT STAY WARMED UP no matter even if you leave it in this state 24/7 like the other one says.

You guys are just digging yourselves a massive technical bottomless pit.

Dig that hole too big and you’ll fall in, you have no idea.

EVS1200 amp both shorts the inputs to ground and puts the amp in standby (turns off the main power supply.....so no caps are being charged).

OMG!!!!!!!! This all started because of this stupid statement
"leaving power amps on 24/7 makes it sound better"

And Ricevs thinking his does, after saying this.
If the power supply is turned OFF as Ricevs says,
and no cap are being charged as Ricevs says,
the input gets muted to ground as Ricevs says.

END OF STORY THE BLOODY AMP IS TURNED OFF!!!!!

There is no "warming up" of the power amplification circuit done 24/7 with the amp in this state, regardless of what auto sensing are on. You two get it in your heads and out of the
https://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/scaled/2013/12/18/article-0-1A2B262D00000578-818_636x382.jpg


NO you don't get it at all! In that case then you are wrong calling it a muting circuit as it’s nothing of the sort.
It’s an on off switch/circuit then, as everything gets turned off if the main power supply gets turned off as you said!
"Muting"
If your referring to keeping electro caps in great condition just by muting, no!
Only being switched off from the ac mains will do, either by the amps "AC power switch" or the ac wall socket..


No! Your the sad one for even entering into this.

To others, this all started from this post of mine below, re leaving power amps on 24/7, because it went against what Eric preached.

And the reasons for turning off the amps, which conditions (polarizes) all the electrolytic power supply caps and any other smaller ones.

"Just turn on your amps a 1/2hr before listening.
It’s also good for the capacitators conditioning, to turn the amps off as they drain and can recharge again from empty.

Cheers George"


To those who want to understand, why it's better to turn off your amps, here it is simply as possible.
(as they like to be drained and recharged otherwise a false permanent "empty floor" happens and your electrolytic power supply caps won’t have the uF storage ability they once had when new, and therefore reducing continuous large transient power supply ability, and introducing higher hum at those stages also)
Cheers George









It’s continuous, and like I said out of the blue, and should be knocked out If your going to argue do it with technical reasons, not by member bashing


Really!!
You started the personal abuse post in your 3rd last post end of page 4 out of the blue, it's there for all to see.👀 lay off whatever it is, it's really affecting you 🤦‍♂️
 https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2210662


George, those Class D Audio USA amps look nice, but boy are they butt ugly.


 Yes not the best looking, but what’s inside is what counts, they "could" be as good as $5k ones for just $699

Otherwise if all that’s important is the look, then I call those "Glitz Queens" and they are usually the ones that parade their glitzy stuff on glitzy racks in between the speakers.
Not caring they are totally stuffing up the imagine properties by doing that.

But they don’t care as they are hypnotized by the shimmer of their equipment they are gazing at while trying to listen..

Cheers George
Underwood HiFi was launching a 200Wpc GAN amp for $3000 under the LSA

And don't throw this new one away yet just because it's very inexpensive.
 A US made and designed Class-D using GaN technology, for just $699!!!!!!!!

https://www.classdaudio.com/mini-gan-5-balanced-power-amplifier.html

https://premium-audio.com/

Cheers George



Class D amps that are superior to all or most?


To most Class-D's
Technics SE-R1 https://www.technics.com/us/products/r1/se-r1.html

Technics SU-R1000 (maybe) https://www.technics.com/us/products/reference-class/integrated-amplifier-su-r1000.html

But they probably still don’t quite reach the sound of the very best solid state high bias linear amps.

Cheers George